DIY stereo upgrade for under $500.00

[FoShizzle]

The B&O Speakers in the 2018 are the same/similar paper junk as in the 2017's. I have a 2018 with B&O and I changed out the following:
- Center Channel (Pioneer TS-A878)
- Front Door Speakers (Pioneer TS-A6986R + Metra 72-5602
Speaker Wire Adapters + Metra 82-5606 Speaker Mounting Plates)
- Rear Door Speakers (Pioneer TS-A1686R + Metra 72-5602
Speaker Wire Adapters + Metra Speaker Mounting Plates)
- Subwoofer (Kicker 43CWRT82 Sub + Kenwood Kenwood KAC-M3001 Amp)

Tips & Notes:
- I used THIS STUFF to insulate the doors and wrap the stock subwoofer enclosure.
- For the rear plastic METRA speaker adapters you will need to trim them and drill new mounting holes to match up with the new speaker and door holes (maybe I got the wrong ones, but I think others had the same experience).
- I tested out the Pioneers in front a-pillar tweeters, but ended up sticking with the stock because they just sounded better.
- I ran a dedicated power wire from to battery to the amp instead of tapping of the inverter like some others because I wanted to do it right the first time.
- No line out converter is needed with the Kenwood amp because it accepts line level inputs. Clip off the stock connectors and terminate the 4 wires going to the stock sub into 2 male RCA connectors (Like THIS) and plug those directly into the amp.
- The sub sounded horrible at first and I was sure I did something wrong. After about a week the sub and the whole system warmed up & broke in IMMENSELY. The sub hits clean and HARD. Unless your going for the 90's style rattle the neighborhood bass this will be more than enough bass.
- I couldn't be happier with the end results! Thanks to the OP and all that contributed to this thread!

 

[lawdog]

2018 802A Bang and Olufson (guess that is already covered by the fact that I said 802A...)

Ok. How this thread started was with a 2017 802a, with the Sony system, which most everyone hated. The B&O is better, but the speakers are crap. It's a miracle it sounds as good as it does once you see them.

The simplest thing to do is replace the front speakers. The original poster used Pioneer A Series 3/4 way 6x9s for the doors, and their TS-line tweeters. I decided to use JBL GTO series 3-way 6x9s and their Stadium tweeters. Both of these choices are designed for keeping the stock amp, as they are very efficient speakers, easily driven. The JBLs are actually 2ohm, and are designed to be factory replacements/work off a factory amp and play louder than the factory setup. The B&O amp sends a direct signal to the tweeters, and one to the front 6x9s that is actually full-range, even though the stock units are just paper cone mid-bass drivers. This is good and bad, IMO, because the imaging can be affected a good bit by the position of your left leg in front of the 6x9, if it's reproducing highs. I and others, if we had to do it over, might not put a 3 or 4-way in the door. Instead, maybe a good 6x9 component set, like those by JBL and sister Harmon company, Infinity.

Most installers recommend leaving the center channel alone or disconnecting it. With my louder JBLs, I left it alone. With the B&O, if you do decide to replace it, it's a 4ohm speaker.

For the rear coaxials, the stock amp puts so little power back there, most now suggest leaving them alone. I replaced mine, and it's almost unnoticeable. If you want to, go ahead, but don't expect much.

As for the sub, the only simple "fix" for the stock unit is to wrap it with dyna-mat type wrap. Otherwise, you can search for the myriad of ways folks have tried to replace the driver and amp it differently, or the aftermarket replacement boxes. It was not so bad for me that I felt the need to do that...yet.

 

[Raptorguy1]

The B&O Speakers in the 2018 are the same/similar paper junk as in the 2017's. I have a 2018 with B&O and I changed out the following:
- Center Channel (Pioneer TS-A878)
- Front Door Speakers (Pioneer TS-A6986R + Metra 72-5602
Speaker Wire Adapters + Metra 82-5606 Speaker Mounting Plates)
- Rear Door Speakers (Pioneer TS-A1686R + Metra 72-5602
Speaker Wire Adapters + Metra Speaker Mounting Plates)
- Subwoofer (Kicker 43CWRT82 Sub + Kenwood Kenwood KAC-M3001 Amp)

Tips & Notes:
- I used THIS STUFF to insulate the doors and wrap the stock subwoofer enclosure.
- For the rear plastic METRA speaker adapters you will need to trim them and drill new mounting holes to match up with the new speaker and door holes (maybe I got the wrong ones, but I think others had the same experience).
- I tested out the Pioneers in front a-pillar tweeters, but ended up sticking with the stock because they just sounded better.
- I ran a dedicated power wire from to battery to the amp instead of tapping of the inverter like some others because I wanted to do it right the first time.
- No line out converter is needed with the Kenwood amp because it accepts line level inputs. Clip off the stock connectors and terminate the 4 wires going to the stock sub into 2 male RCA connectors (Like THIS) and plug those directly into the amp.
- The sub sounded horrible at first and I was sure I did something wrong. After about a week the sub and the whole system warmed up & broke in IMMENSELY. The sub hits clean and HARD. Unless your going for the 90's style rattle the neighborhood bass this will be more than enough bass.
- I couldn't be happier with the end results! Thanks to the OP and all that contributed to this thread!

I believe the rear adapters should be 82-5605.

 

[jakedog]

You all are awesome!! Thank you!!

I’m just really trying to figure out if I want to invest in a $7k system that basically scraps everything or go with this more reasonable option.

 

[dhmcfadin]

For 18 and up, you need to use the NAVTV Zen-a2b replacement module. Makes installing aftermarket equipment seamless for B&O systems.

 

[Quaesta]

For 18 and up, you need to use the NAVTV Zen-a2b replacement module. Makes installing aftermarket equipment seamless for B&O systems.
View attachment 114631

Is that behind your rear seat? Looks quite the setup.

 

[dhmcfadin]

Is that behind your rear seat? Looks quite the setup.

Yup, here’s a couple build pics:

 

[lawdog]

For 18 and up, you need to use the NAVTV Zen-a2b replacement module. Makes installing aftermarket equipment seamless for B&O systems.

They've renamed it, but still the same deal. Cool piece of kit:

https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT889/zen-a2b-dsp12a-a2b.html

 

[sean1968]

They've renamed it, but still the same deal. Cool piece of kit:

https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT889/zen-a2b-dsp12a-a2b.html

Pricey!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[lawdog]

Pricey!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

It is, but there's really not a cheap way to untether everything from the stock amp and preserve Sync functionality...that's why you see the $500-700 fix, and then the $3,000-7,000 (or more) fix.