Caring for Paint Treated with Opti-Coat Pro

[Jay.gordon]

Yes, waxing over OC is fine, but not really necessary. The OC will last longer than the wax you put on top of it, so you're sort of at the point of diminishing returns here.

Glazing is an option, but most don't last long at all as they are designed to be a beauty product, not a protection product.

I'd just maintain it with a proper 2 bucket wash system and a pH neutral soap, like ours.

Can someone please define 2 and 3 bucket washes for me? I use one bucket and a hose. Not trying to be a smart/******* just want to get edumacted about the process and the ideas behind it.

 

[RAPTORSV]

Can someone please define 2 and 3 bucket washes for me?

Tutorial: how to wash your car (best car wash methods by Auto Obsessed) - YouTube

Its a lot of work for a Raptor because of it's size. I use the foam cannon and it's GREAT, but only use one bucket and blow dry with Master Blaster. Works well and is fast, if I had this cars I would be more apt to use 2 buckets, because the car is so small.

I know everyone is excited about Opti Coat, but I prefer Klasse AIO, followed by Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze. And I if am ambitious a coat for Autglym HD Wax.

 

[AdamsPolishes]

Can someone please define 2 and 3 bucket washes for me? I use one bucket and a hose. Not trying to be a smart/******* just want to get edumacted about the process and the ideas behind it.

It's literally using 2 separate buckets during your wash process. One for clean, soapy water and the other with just rinse water in it.

If you want to be picky about your paint and ensure you aren't adding more swirls/scratches each time you wash, then this is the method for you.

Check out our video here:

Adam's Polishes Vol. 8 - Chapter 4 - Car Washing - YouTube

 

[Nick@Apollo-Optics]

I wouldn't call it snake oil, no. It's just not a product that we will likely ever carry.

The kicker with OC, especially the Pro version, is that truly should be applied by a professional as it's not very easy to work with. The 2.0 is a little more forgiving, but you lose out on longevity with it, so there's a trade off.

Both of our sealants are very user friendly and last many months before they being to degrade. 6-8+ months is not out of the realm of possibility from Machine Super Sealant or Quick Sealant.



Be sure to go in with realistic expectations here. While it does act as a protective barrier for your clear coat, it's a microscopic one. It's not a coat of armor designed to protect you from run-ins with tree branches, rocks, or other things you'll meet out on the trail.

I feel like the protection from off-roading will be minimal. What I really like is that it will speed up washing/drying since it will sheet water for 4-6 years and if I don't quite have time to wash the truck myself, it will hopefully be less likely to get swirls from the local HANDWASH car wash...no machine washes for this truck.

 

[Silnus]

One of the best things to get to prevent swirling, and speed up the cleaning process is a leaf blower to dry the car off with. Car is dry in 4-5 minutes, and that's every nook and cranny. Using microfiber drying towels still keep some sharp debris in there and swirl up the paint in the drying process even more so than the washing IMO. At least there is some lubrication from the soap during that process.

 

[Dr_Pain]

I agree that OC needs to be applied by a competent person AFTER proper decontamination and polishing. The prep is the key!! There are a few techniques that can be used to prevent high spots, but if you mess up you will have to compound the section and will have to spot patch (which you can do up to 30 days). Post-coating you will have to be super careful not to mess with it until it is fully cured. OC 2.0 does provide a permanent alternative to waxing/sealant but does not protect against stupidity. Improper wash technique or just plain daily exposure/mishandling will induce scratches. If you don't like the look of it in a few years you will have to compound it off, compared to traditional wax/sealant where you can strip them with some household products.

I do have a Tux Black Raptor and do high end detailing, and DO NOT have OC on my truck. The optical qualities do not compare to a high end sealant, or top end wax. It is very flat and unattractive. Nothing compares to the dripping wet look of a carnuba wax finish. Don't get me wrong, it does give a nice show when it rains or when you spray the truck down, but I can (and do) produce the same beading and shedding claimed and produced by OC with the "temporary" products I use. As far as maintenance, I use a foam cannon and an electric power washer and a couple of microchenille wash mitts and dry the truck with a leaf blower and a single waffle weave microfiber. I normally boost the sealant/wax with a product like CG V07 (or other products alike).

If you are interested in seeing the sheeting and beading that you can produce with 2 coats of protection (wax over sealant), then check out my FB page under the video. I recently posted a beading/shedding video off an Audi Q7, and sheeting (not good) off of a Porsche. www.facebook.com/flawlessfinishdetailing

 

[blockdoc]

I had OC on my terrain truck that was totaled. It did exactly what I wanted - gave me a waxed look and protection without the work involved. As noted above, it's not going to protect from tree branches, etc, but it makes cleanup A LOT easier.

Our roads here get a lot of coal truck traffic, and they are filthy. Any rain or snow, and your vehicle is nasty, gray looking. The OC made the garbage that was thrown at me by these pig-pen trucks easily removed.

My wash process with OC:
Adams All Purpose cleaner (or wheel cleaner) to wheels and tires
rinse with pressure washer (careful to stay back far enough from the paint!)
foam cannon
quick 2-bucket wash
rinse
dry with Masterblaster side kick, then microfiber drying towel (Adams Great White)
detail spray with Adams

When my truck was a nasty mess from the road grime, I could make it look freshly waxed in 30-45 minutes start to finish. And that's starting from a real mess.

You can clay bar OC without any problem at all. It's what you should do when you notice it isn't smooth anymore. Wax can be applied over it, but the wax will not last as long as on a vehicle without it. Nothing wants to stick to it - including waxes.

I was very happy with it on my truck. When we bought my wife a new car, it went directly from the dealer lot to the detailer to apply OC and Xpel. My truck that's currently ordered will be the same way.

My wife's car looks great with it (and it's a dark blue). It sounds like you might not get the same level of gloss as Dr Pain can using other stuff, but the ease of it is what I like. I like having a waxed car without having to wax ( I don't really enjoy spending a lot of time & effort waxing and buffing). I do enjoy cleaning up our vehicles though when it's so easy to do.

 

[Nick@Apollo-Optics]

I agree that OC needs to be applied by a competent person AFTER proper decontamination and polishing. The prep is the key!! There are a few techniques that can be used to prevent high spots, but if you mess up you will have to compound the section and will have to spot patch (which you can do up to 30 days). Post-coating you will have to be super careful not to mess with it until it is fully cured. OC 2.0 does provide a permanent alternative to waxing/sealant but does not protect against stupidity. Improper wash technique or just plain daily exposure/mishandling will induce scratches. If you don't like the look of it in a few years you will have to compound it off, compared to traditional wax/sealant where you can strip them with some household products.

I do have a Tux Black Raptor and do high end detailing, and DO NOT have OC on my truck. The optical qualities do not compare to a high end sealant, or top end wax. It is very flat and unattractive. Nothing compares to the dripping wet look of a carnuba wax finish. Don't get me wrong, it does give a nice show when it rains or when you spray the truck down, but I can (and do) produce the same beading and shedding claimed and produced by OC with the "temporary" products I use. As far as maintenance, I use a foam cannon and an electric power washer and a couple of microchenille wash mitts and dry the truck with a leaf blower and a single waffle weave microfiber. I normally boost the sealant/wax with a product like CG V07 (or other products alike).

If you are interested in seeing the sheeting and beading that you can produce with 2 coats of protection (wax over sealant), then check out my FB page under the video. I recently posted a beading/shedding video off an Audi Q7, and sheeting (not good) off of a Porsche. www.facebook.com/flawlessfinishdetailing

Can you tell me more about the "look of it in a few years?" Also, I'll be getting a full prep/paint correction at the dealer and the OC Pro will be fully cured for 24 hours before it comes out of their facility.

I had OC on my terrain truck that was totaled. It did exactly what I wanted - gave me a waxed look and protection without the work involved. As noted above, it's not going to protect from tree branches, etc, but it makes cleanup A LOT easier.

Our roads here get a lot of coal truck traffic, and they are filthy. Any rain or snow, and your vehicle is nasty, gray looking. The OC made the garbage that was thrown at me by these pig-pen trucks easily removed.

My wash process with OC:
Adams All Purpose cleaner (or wheel cleaner) to wheels and tires
rinse with pressure washer (careful to stay back far enough from the paint!)
foam cannon
quick 2-bucket wash
rinse
dry with Masterblaster side kick, then microfiber drying towel (Adams Great White)
detail spray with Adams

When my truck was a nasty mess from the road grime, I could make it look freshly waxed in 30-45 minutes start to finish. And that's starting from a real mess.

You can clay bar OC without any problem at all. It's what you should do when you notice it isn't smooth anymore. Wax can be applied over it, but the wax will not last as long as on a vehicle without it. Nothing wants to stick to it - including waxes.

I was very happy with it on my truck. When we bought my wife a new car, it went directly from the dealer lot to the detailer to apply OC and Xpel. My truck that's currently ordered will be the same way.

My wife's car looks great with it (and it's a dark blue). It sounds like you might not get the same level of gloss as Dr Pain can using other stuff, but the ease of it is what I like. I like having a waxed car without having to wax ( I don't really enjoy spending a lot of time & effort waxing and buffing). I do enjoy cleaning up our vehicles though when it's so easy to do.

This is what I'm looking for. Easy to maintain a perfect/always waxed finished.

 

[Dr_Pain]

Can you tell me more about the "look of it in a few years?" Also, I'll be getting a full prep/paint correction at the dealer and the OC Pro will be fully cured for 24 hours before it comes out of their facility.

OC is a permanent coating, so if it gets scratched, scuffed, or if "exposure" (environment or man produced contaminants) renders the OC not as effective (as a sacrificial barrier) or if something comes to affect the optical qualities, then you will have to compound it off.

The look, the feel, the protection qualities are all dependent on the maintenance you do. You cannot expect to put OC on and just neglect the truck, because the paint will suffer the same faith, regardless of the protection. The OC is not impervious to the etching problems of water, bug guts, bird bombs etc... and will not prevent the bonding effect of paint overspray, rail or brake dust, tree sap etc... You will still have to wash and decontaminate the paint (clay or clay alternatives) when needed. You will still have to use proper washing techniques (and you will still want to avoid car washes) to prevent inducing scratches and swirls.

Before the argument is made, YES in certain cases OC is more resilient than the clear coat it protects (I'm thinking about the infamous soft clear of a black Porsche), but in most case it is the same or in the case of single stage white paint, a little softer.

OC is a sacrificial barrier, same as the temporary products I use, but it does not mean that you can just send the lamb to the slaughter house. It does have the convenience of not needing to be reapplied, but does carry the cost and the inconvinience of compounding if it needs to be redone.

I just want to throw this out there, in the maintenance of my truck, it is washed every 2 weeks, gets waxed quarterly, gets clayed every six months (or so) and gets a light polish to remove light water marks and fine scuffs and scratches once a year (.....IF needed....). The only time saving you have over me is the 30 minutes it takes me to apply the paint sealant every 3-4 months. You still have to wash it, clay it (when needed)....

The OC application is normally done after a good prep which includes a polishing to remove as much of, if not all, the clear coat imperfections. Cost varies from state to state and if it is a new vehicle compared to a used one, but regardless the compound and application (and product) is not inexpensive. Spot repairs are possible but very tricky. On my truck, no worries with fixing a scuff. I polish and reapply the LSP.

24hrs is a good flash time but OC, even OC Pro can take up to a few weeks to cure. You will see what I mean when you touch the truck. It won't be a rock hard surface (initially). During that period of time..... BE CAREFUL!

 

[blockdoc]

That's the best articulated argument against OC I have seen.

I would (and will when my new truck comes) still use OC on my paint. I think there must be more of a time saving effect than your estimate accounts for. I don't have to wash every 2 weeks, even though I regularly pass coal trucks that look like Pig Pen with the crap they throw/shed as they go down the road.

I appreciate your post though, as its only by seeing both the positive and negative arguments for/against a product that anyone can make an informed decision.