Bigger sub in the back

[goblues38]

You're in the audio section.

And your info about no upgrades without a tear down isn't remotely accurate according to a number of installers (in this forum) and a few pro's locally I've talked to. You can upgrade bits and pieces without going full tear down. Full replacement is by far the way to go, and your price tag of starting at 3k is pretty accurate. I'm not an installer by any means, but I've been digging through this upgrade for a few months now and have gotten a metric ton of options that weren't full builds.

It is your money. Who am I to stop you from burning it for minuscule upgrades.

Yes, you "can" just replace a set of speakers. But they are not the problem in the B&O set up. The cheap 8 watts of power per channel, and shady B&O tuning to try and cover for 8 watts of power is why this sound system sound like crap at any listening level above moderate.

You can add what ever $500 focal speakers you want.....they are not going to fix the problem until you remove the B&O amp, which, requires replacing everything but the rear door speakers.

 

[gkrane]

Contrary to what most people think. too much power does not Destroy speaks (within reason) too little power does. the B&O amp only has 8 watts per channel. you very quickly get into distortion and start sending a square wave to the speaker. that is what melts voice coils. B&O knows this and that's what the roll off low frequencies so quick...all to help ford not have millions in speaker warrant claims.

You have to understand audio theory and sign waves to get the full picture.

Although I have no immediate intention to upgrade my truck audio because I don't have enough long trips to justify the cost, I learned this with my home theater setup where I put my audio budget that I use constantly. Excellent advice.

 

[2022 Ruth]

Let us not forget, if you want to double the output of your system, add speakers that have a sensitive of 3db higher than what’s in there (1watt/1meter).

Power is a very small part of the equation. People put in these 100 watt amps and these speakers that are like 82db sensitivity and take a massive 80 watts of power and end up with a scenario that is not better than what they replaced.

Unless you are going balls out, I would leave well enough enough. Or add a sub and be done with it.

 

[Shane361]

Or dump 10 grand into it like me

 

[2022 Ruth]

Or dump 10 grand into it like me

Oh yeah. I hear ya. My old super duty had 2 13TW5s in an MTI enclosure (for sale BTW - unloaded). Focals all around. Zapco Z2KD on the subs and a JL VX 600.6 on the mids/highs. Not 10 grand but getting there . I told my self I wasnt going to tear up this one for stupid car stereo stuff but we will see how that goes.

 

[Shane361]

Oh yeah. I hear ya. My old super duty had 2 13TW5s in an MTI enclosure (for sale BTW - unloaded). Focals all around. Zapco Z2KD on the subs and a JL VX 600.6 on the mids/highs. Not 10 grand but getting there . I told my self I wasnt going to tear up this one for stupid car stereo stuff but we will see how that goes.

I'm a bass head but also like it to sound great in the process. With bass comes 100 pound easch subs and lots of Lithium. I even have my back seat out currently. I also have in the garage a Gately underseat with four Gately Relentless 8" subs which I would put up against any other underseat enclosure. Wish I could post a video of the bass shaking the truck..lol.

 

[greatone99]

It is your money. Who am I to stop you from burning it for minuscule upgrades.

Yes, you "can" just replace a set of speakers. But they are not the problem in the B&O set up. The cheap 8 watts of power per channel, and shady B&O tuning to try and cover for 8 watts of power is why this sound system sound like crap at any listening level above moderate.

You can add what ever $500 focal speakers you want.....they are not going to fix the problem until you remove the B&O amp, which, requires replacing everything but the rear door speakers.

I agree ,I started with the front speakers ,focal flax 6.5 components ,made very little difference maybe 5 percent ,then added a zen ,900/5 AMP ,AND sub 2-10 inch ,whole new system . since then ive upgraded to an audison 5 channel 1650 watt amp ,with 1000 on the sub channel ,and put in focal kx2 components up front .with an mti enclosure on the way .im now roughly 7000 in on what started out as a 400$ front speaker upgrade.

 

[Grayson]

Let us not forget, if you want to double the output of your system, add speakers that have a sensitive of 3db higher than what’s in there (1watt/1meter).

Power is a very small part of the equation. People put in these 100 watt amps and these speakers that are like 82db sensitivity and take a massive 80 watts of power and end up with a scenario that is not better than what they replaced.

Unless you are going balls out, I would leave well enough enough. Or add a sub and be done with it.

Do you know the sensitivity level of the OEM speakers? It would be appreciated if you shared what the sensitivity rating is because I've been unable to find that info.

Everyone has a different ear for sound so its all on what a person wants to accomplish. JBL Club's run between 2.8-3.0 ohms like @2022 Ruth said and may improve enjoyment without spending thousands. The Infinity reference speakers are too bright for me at less than 2.5ohm range.

I can't handle a full audio upgrade with components (installed correctly, proper placement and after tuning) that have overly bright tweeters. Focal PC 165 Flax 6.5's are rated at 86.5db at 1watt/1meter. Most Pioneer speakers in both 6x9 and 6.5's are also lower in sensitivity rating. JL Audio C2's are around 96db

 

[2022 Ruth]

Do you know the sensitivity level of the OEM speakers? It would be appreciated if you shared what the sensitivity rating is because I've been unable to find that info.

Everyone has a different ear for sound so its all on what a person wants to accomplish. JBL Club's run between 2.8-3.0 ohms like @2022 Ruth said and may improve enjoyment without spending thousands. The Infinity reference speakers are too bright for me at less than 2.5ohm range.

I can't handle a full audio upgrade with components (installed correctly, proper placement and after tuning) that have overly bright tweeters. Focal PC 165 Flax 6.5's are rated at 86.5db at 1watt/1meter. Most Pioneer speakers in both 6x9 and 6.5's are also lower in sensitivity rating. JL Audio C2's are around 96db

I was just thinking about this the other day. The OEM units are decent and seem to make good use of the factory power.

The Harman brands like JBL and Infinity that do the 3.0 Ohm speakers is an attempt to squeeze a little more power out of the OEM amp which the OEM amp seems to be able to handle ok even though I don’t think its rated for a 3 ohm load. They are also ultra sensitive at over 90db too. Those seem like a pretty good option if using the OEM head unit.

Focal makes A decent product but the are super non efficient.

The kicker DS and Sony XS are both pretty inexpensive and are both 92 db 1w 1 meter. Those would be a great option if you are sticking with OEM power.

 

[Grayson]

I was just thinking about this the other day. The OEM units are decent and seem to make good use of the factory power.

The Harman brands like JBL and Infinity that do the 3.0 Ohm speakers is an attempt to squeeze a little more power out of the OEM amp which the OEM amp seems to be able to handle ok even though I don’t think its rated for a 3 ohm load. They are also ultra sensitive at over 90db too. Those seem like a pretty good option if using the OEM head unit.

Focal makes A decent product but the are super non efficient.

The kicker DS and Sony XS are both pretty inexpensive and are both 92 db 1w 1 meter. Those would be a great option if you are sticking with OEM power.

I wouldn't change the speakers in a B&O system without removing the factory amp and upgrading/integrating. The base audio system has no amplifier. The kicker and Sony are 4ohm speakers; They both state a higher db reading but it will always be louder with a 3ohm speaker. Distortion will kick in above a volume level of 17-18 in my experience no matter what aftermarket speakers you install.

Do you know the OEM speaker ratings? I am genuinely wanting the info if you have it.