Bigger sub in the back

[PandaBoi]

THIS is horrible advice, and a complete waste of money.

The entire problem with the B&O systems is the crappy bass management applied inside the B&O amp. So grabbing a full signal off the rear doors is a horrible strategy. The B&O systems quickly starts to roll off the low frequencies to protect the factory speakers. Because the amp has such low power, it tears speakers up with any distortion. So the more you turn up the volume, the less bass makes it to the amp and speakers.....you could add 2 - 15's and 1,000 watts and it would still sound like crap because the B&O is cutting low frequencies.


Unfortunately....the B&O systems is not upgradeable in any way possible. You are just wasting your money.

If you have a B&O and you want it to sound better....you have to replace it all. $3,300 minimum starting point if you have to pay some one to do it.......If you know what you are doing....and no offense......if you have to ask on a board like this you most likely do not......you can do it for about $2,300.

Plenty of threads on this in the audio section.

Well I was planning to get some line out converter and tapping into the speaker inputs on the B&O amp. I’d assume they are sending an analog signal on these wires (unless ford really went the extra effort to prevent this) and thus this would work. Then you could simply slap an amp and a subwoofer back there and voila you’re done. Personally, adding a sub would make a huge difference imo since the speakers themselves (while they are not amazing) are decently ok.

I’ve done self installs for audio on all the cars I’ve owned. Only difference was back then getting a stock stereo system was more possible than nowadays. Again, sad I couldn’t opt for the cheaper system on my raptor.

To your point of “If you know what you are doing....and no offense......if you have to ask on a board like this you most likely do not” I think this is a bit of an overstatement. Professionals don’t stop learning or halt discussing topics because they know everything already. That’s how you become a dinosaur. I was simply posting to see what people may have done and how they may have done it (by themselves or otherwise). Dare I say “you don’t know me!” (you really don’t, but if you want to know I majored in computer engineering and do have a minor in EE) but you did say no offense so I’ll leave it friendly haha . Thank you for the concern though!

EDIT: please ignore my standoffishness above, I'm not one to remove my words once said but clearly i made a poor assumption as you will see below!

 

[2022 Ruth]

THIS is horrible advice, and a complete waste of money.

The entire problem with the B&O systems is the crappy bass management applied inside the B&O amp. So grabbing a full signal off the rear doors is a horrible strategy. The B&O systems quickly starts to roll off the low frequencies to protect the factory speakers. Because the amp has such low power, it tears speakers up with any distortion. So the more you turn up the volume, the less bass makes it to the amp and speakers.....you could add 2 - 15's and 1,000 watts and it would still sound like crap because the B&O is cutting low frequencies.


Unfortunately....the B&O systems is not upgradeable in any way possible. You are just wasting your money.

If you have a B&O and you want it to sound better....you have to replace it all. $3,300 minimum starting point if you have to pay some one to do it.......If you know what you are doing....and no offense......if you have to ask on a board like this you most likely do not......you can do it for about $2,300.

Plenty of threads on this in the audio section.

Hmmm. Not sure where you get those numbers or what kind of experience you have with these setups…

You are right in not pulling from the rear speaker. Those roll off on the rear speakers is at like 60 Hz. So not a great source for a sub. The B&O sub out has a slight roll off which Accubass does a good job with. That is why I recommend using the subwoofer signal out then tweaking the roll off with the audio control unit.

Soundsgood stereo is one of the best in the business and they even sell plug and play units to do what I’m saying.

I had a very similar setup in my 2017. Worked great.

The B&O system is very upgradable both with adding a new sub amp/sub or even using the Zen A2B unit going toslink to something like a JL vx amp if you want to do the whole thing. The aftermarket is very mature for these. They even have a harness to output to the factory speakers at the amp so, if doing a full system, you don’t have to splice. I would say, as far as upgrading goes, the B&O system is one of the more upgradable systems. Check out NAV-TV and sounds good stereo for some ideas.

Good luck!

 

[PandaBoi]

THIS is horrible advice, and a complete waste of money.

The entire problem with the B&O systems is the crappy bass management applied inside the B&O amp. So grabbing a full signal off the rear doors is a horrible strategy. The B&O systems quickly starts to roll off the low frequencies to protect the factory speakers. Because the amp has such low power, it tears speakers up with any distortion. So the more you turn up the volume, the less bass makes it to the amp and speakers.....you could add 2 - 15's and 1,000 watts and it would still sound like crap because the B&O is cutting low frequencies.


Unfortunately....the B&O systems is not upgradeable in any way possible. You are just wasting your money.

If you have a B&O and you want it to sound better....you have to replace it all. $3,300 minimum starting point if you have to pay some one to do it.......If you know what you are doing....and no offense......if you have to ask on a board like this you most likely do not......you can do it for about $2,300.

Plenty of threads on this in the audio section.

Forgot to mention but thank you on the info regarding using the amplified output from the sun, I’ll definitely keep that in mind!

 

[goblues38]

Well I was planning to get some line out converter and tapping into the speaker inputs on the B&O amp. I’d assume they are sending an analog signal on these wires (unless ford really went the extra effort to prevent this)

That's the point....ithe B&O is connected to the car via the CANBUS system. there are no "inputs" to grab. You would have to grab a signal after the amp, which then puts you back in the problem of B&O process rolling off low frequencies.

Don't get me started on "ACCU BASS"......that is a joke. Fake music, where they are making up frequency response that isn't there anymore because B&O removed it.

You can't upgrade the B&O...you can only replace it.

 

[goblues38]

You are right in not pulling from the rear speaker. Those roll off on the rear speakers is at like 60 Hz. So not a great source for a sub. The B&O sub out has a slight roll off which Accubass does a good job with. That is why I recommend using the subwoofer signal out then tweaking the roll off with the audio control unit.

Sorry...you are just wrong.

Even grabbing the high level at the sub, if after the B&O processing. Anything after say 18 on the volume knob and the bass starts to roll off.

Your 2017 was not a B&O system.

As I said earlier......ACCU BASS or any other electronic system that tries to rebuild bass sounds like **** if you know what real low end is supposed to sound like and it is a band aid at best. Does not accurately reproduce the music....it makes it up as it goes along. Gross.

The B&O system is very upgradable both with adding a new sub amp/sub or even using the Zen A2B unit going toslink to something like a JL vx amp if you want to do the whole thing. The aftermarket is very mature for these. They even have a harness to output to the factory speakers at the amp so, if doing a full system, you don’t have to splice. I would say, as far as upgrading goes, the B&O system is one of the more upgradable systems. Check out NAV-TV and sounds good stereo for some ideas.

Good luck!

Unless you pull the B&O amp and use the ZEN A2B, you are just throwing money into a dumpster fire. The speakers are not the problem, the B&O amp and its internal processing are why it sucks. you have to remove it to get better.

Not trying to be a jerk, but I have 30+ years experience in car audio, and have been trying to help educate people for 3+ years on this forum (with others). Search the gen 2 and gen 3 audio forums...plenty of info to be read.

 

[Shane361]

People talking 3 grand...lol. Not sure if I should laugh or cry. HAHAHAHA

But he did say starting and was not joking! Pretty sure I'm around 10K right now.

 

[greatone99]

Yup I’m about 6 grand in on my 19
Mti enclosure - audison amp 5.1-k
Zen nav tv , focal kx2 up front
Still have not even touched the rear door speakers .

 

[Shane361]

Yup I’m about 6 grand in on my 19
Mti enclosure - audison amp 5.1-k
Zen nav tv , focal kx2 up front
Still have not even touched the rear door speakers .

I'm sure I'm higher, wasn't even adding up the doors, which is blockoff plates, sound deadening, adapters. I'm scared to add it all up..haha. Hell the 100 foot of OFC is like $500 now..crazy.

 

[bowdaddy215]

Hey y’all,

Just picked up my new 21 raptor with the B&O unleashed sounds system, I saw it has a sub behind the wide rear seats but was curious if anyone has done anything to add a bigger/more powerful sub. I am a bass head and love the extra richness an aftermarket sub can add and saw some guys modifying their stock f150s to add a sub but with the top tier B&O system I wonder what issues could arise by modifying it. I was thinking of using the existing wires to the sub/amp and adding in another or replacing the existing one.

Any thoughts or comments are welcome, it might be best to leave it due to the warranty void issue potential but I was just curious if anyone else has thought about it.

Cheers!

I bought the JL Audio 13inch W5 Stealthbox from Crutchfield for my 2014 and could not be happier.

 

[PandaBoi]

That's the point....ithe B&O is connected to the car via the CANBUS system. there are no "inputs" to grab. You would have to grab a signal after the amp, which then puts you back in the problem of B&O process rolling off low frequencies.

Don't get me started on "ACCU BASS"......that is a joke. Fake music, where they are making up frequency response that isn't there anymore because B&O removed it.

You can't upgrade the B&O...you can only replace it.

you gotta be f**king kidding me, they seriously connected it do CANBUS?!? If that is the case then I'll eat my words. I genuinely did not think they would actually do that. Anyway, I've only had mine for 5 days and 4 of which it has been sitting in a shop getting PPF & Tint done, so i havent had a chance to look at it yet. That is super sad to hear though, I guess I'll have to see what I plan to do next since i certainly wasnt interested in spending +$5k for getting ****** decent bass (at least right now).

Update: I see now that the NAVTV module would require removal of the previous amp so that answers that question, are there any modules out there that would support pass through as well as RCA outputs? Also @goblues38 I would like to respectfully eat my words, I made the mistake of coming in here with a huge assumption and that is my fault. You were right in the sense that this is far more complicated than i initially imagined haha. I truly appreciate the advice!

Thanks!