Bigger sub in the back

[PandaBoi]

Ok so just spitballing here, based on some further research I've done, it does not look like a passthrough device exists in the current market. That being said, is the connection splittable? I understand that the canbus system is bi-directional so does anyone out there know of or think it is possible to get a bi-directional splitter (in the sense that the single path is split into two paths while still maintaining the bi-directional properties of the split paths to the single path)? Id assume maybe there is a module/microcontroller out there that could potentially do it but I'd also assume it would be a heavy DIY project that would not be commercially available.

Anyway I'm just spitballing here. Id love to maintain the factory B&O Unleashed speakers but just replace the damn stupid sub and not have it cost me an arm and a leg.

 

[PandaBoi]

Alright @goblues38 I've done a lot of research since reading your comment (awesome post on your build by the way!) and now I have a decent understanding of the situation and what i might plan to do. It seems as though the B&O amp will have to go if i want to do anything. Thus i think that at the minimum I will have to purchase the NAVTV converter along with an amp to power all speakers and the sub.

My question to you is given i have the Unleashed version of B&O, there are quite a lot of speakers around the truck. Do you know what could be a good amp to power the stock speakers as well as a decent sub that could fit behind the seats (I can't do under since there is a lockbox there)? i was thinking of maybe going with a Rockford Fosgate R2SD2-10 Prime as the sub and finding a decent box to go back there. Or should i not even consider using the stock speakers and waiting till i can upgrade them. Again, I'll have more info once i can actually see the truck/speakers/amp but I get excited and figured it wouldn't hurt to ask.

 

[Shane361]

Alright @goblues38 I've done a lot of research since reading your comment (awesome post on your build by the way!) and now I have a decent understanding of the situation and what i might plan to do. It seems as though the B&O amp will have to go if i want to do anything. Thus i think that at the minimum I will have to purchase the NAVTV converter along with an amp to power all speakers and the sub.

My question to you is given i have the Unleashed version of B&O, there are quite a lot of speakers around the truck. Do you know what could be a good amp to power the stock speakers as well as a decent sub that could fit behind the seats (I can't do under since there is a lockbox there)? i was thinking of maybe going with a Rockford Fosgate R2SD2-10 Prime as the sub and finding a decent box to go back there. Or should i not even consider using the stock speakers and waiting till i can upgrade them. Again, I'll have more info once i can actually see the truck/speakers/amp but I get excited and figured it wouldn't hurt to ask.

Unfortunately, your best bet is to a complete install all at once. Stick with the stock system till you acquire all your components. It isn't cheap..but the truck wasn't either. Not as well versed on the Gen3 but you would do fine just replacing the 4 doors and tweeters and not using anything else other than your sub/s of course. I'd go 6.5 components front and back with adaptor plates. I'll will say I love my JL Audio C3's. Plenty of good amps to go the distance for smaller less than 1000 watt builds. I'm not a huge fan of RF amps, JL is a much better brand IMO. A JL1000 and JL 4 channel 75X4 is a nice couple depending of course what subs you do. Shouldn't have to upgrade any electrical running those two although it would never hurt. Can go a 1000 routes with a build but you will be grateful you did.

 

[Jayrod]

I’m on the fence at this point. I’m about to pull the trigger and just Focal the entire truck and say screw it. With this system it’s basically all or nothing.

 

[goblues38]

Also @goblues38 I would like to respectfully eat my words, I made the mistake of coming in here with a huge assumption and that is my fault. You were right in the sense that this is far more complicated than i initially imagined haha. I truly appreciate the advice!

Thanks!

It is all good my man. Just trying to help.

 

[goblues38]

Alright @goblues38 I've done a lot of research since reading your comment (awesome post on your build by the way!) and now I have a decent understanding of the situation and what i might plan to do. It seems as though the B&O amp will have to go if i want to do anything. Thus i think that at the minimum I will have to purchase the NAVTV converter along with an amp to power all speakers and the sub.

My question to you is given i have the Unleashed version of B&O, there are quite a lot of speakers around the truck. Do you know what could be a good amp to power the stock speakers as well as a decent sub that could fit behind the seats (I can't do under since there is a lockbox there)? i was thinking of maybe going with a Rockford Fosgate R2SD2-10 Prime as the sub and finding a decent box to go back there. Or should i not even consider using the stock speakers and waiting till i can upgrade them. Again, I'll have more info once i can actually see the truck/speakers/amp but I get excited and figured it wouldn't hurt to ask.

The good news is the NAV A2B has a full 10 channels of output. So you are only limited by your own creativity.

I would skip the center Chanel, and skip the headrest speakers. So a quality 5 channel amp (using passive crossovers) is what you are looking for. But, the money is yours......the rabbit hole only gets deeper.

 

[goblues38]

As I stated in my build.....I did run the factory speakers for a day during my install (I did my doors last).

The factory paper speakers were loud as hell when supplied with 75 watts er Chanel.

Contrary to what most people think. too much power does not Destroy speaks (within reason) too little power does. the B&O amp only has 8 watts per channel. you very quickly get into distortion and start sending a square wave to the speaker. that is what melts voice coils. B&O knows this and that's what the roll off low frequencies so quick...all to help ford not have millions in speaker warrant claims.

You have to understand audio theory and sign waves to get the full picture.

 

[PandaBoi]

As I stated in my build.....I did run the factory speakers for a day during my install (I did my doors last).

The factory paper speakers were loud as hell when supplied with 75 watts er Chanel.

Contrary to what most people think. too much power does not Destroy speaks (within reason) too little power does. the B&O amp only has 8 watts per channel. you very quickly get into distortion and start sending a square wave to the speaker. that is what melts voice coils. B&O knows this and that's what the roll off low frequencies so quick...all to help ford not have millions in speaker warrant claims.

You have to understand audio theory and sign waves to get the full picture.

Gotcha I’ll take look into some quality 5 channel amps and might PM you. Only concern I have now is if it will void my warranty… if I break the speakers I’ll pay for it myself (doubt it could happen but you never know) but I don’t want to get a fail on say a headlight and then be rejected because I touched the amp.

Anyone know if touching audio stuff (non-destructive) will void the warranty? I could take a guess but maybe there is some grace in there for us. Not sure.

 

[Shane361]

As I stated in my build.....I did run the factory speakers for a day during my install (I did my doors last).

The factory paper speakers were loud as hell when supplied with 75 watts er Chanel.

Contrary to what most people think. too much power does not Destroy speaks (within reason) too little power does. the B&O amp only has 8 watts per channel. you very quickly get into distortion and start sending a square wave to the speaker. that is what melts voice coils. B&O knows this and that's what the roll off low frequencies so quick...all to help ford not have millions in speaker warrant claims.

You have to understand audio theory and sign waves to get the full picture.

Love Waves....
These are handy...40 bucks on Amazon...

 

[Gregger]

THIS is horrible advice, and a complete waste of money.

The entire problem with the B&O systems is the crappy bass management applied inside the B&O amp. So grabbing a full signal off the rear doors is a horrible strategy. The B&O systems quickly starts to roll off the low frequencies to protect the factory speakers. Because the amp has such low power, it tears speakers up with any distortion. So the more you turn up the volume, the less bass makes it to the amp and speakers.....you could add 2 - 15's and 1,000 watts and it would still sound like crap because the B&O is cutting low frequencies.


Unfortunately....the B&O systems is not upgradeable in any way possible. You are just wasting your money.

If you have a B&O and you want it to sound better....you have to replace it all. $3,300 minimum starting point if you have to pay some one to do it.......If you know what you are doing....and no offense......if you have to ask on a board like this you most likely do not......you can do it for about $2,300.

Plenty of threads on this in the audio section.

You're in the audio section.

And your info about no upgrades without a tear down isn't remotely accurate according to a number of installers (in this forum) and a few pro's locally I've talked to. You can upgrade bits and pieces without going full tear down. Full replacement is by far the way to go, and your price tag of starting at 3k is pretty accurate. I'm not an installer by any means, but I've been digging through this upgrade for a few months now and have gotten a metric ton of options that weren't full builds.