Bending or Breaking a Steering Knuckle

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loki_13

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Nice post Andy! As far the the quick inspection method of checking the distance between the inner tire wall and UCA, as you stated it's a quick inspection and a guideline although not foolproof.
I was told at havoc that both my knuckles were bent because they was no gap between the inner tire wall and UCA, infact my UCA's were rubbing on my inner tire walls.
That method of determination proved wrong as I run Toyos and they have bigger "knobs" on the tire walls and my tire pressure was reduced to 20 psi.
Less tire pressure equates to more bulge.
The other method " alignment " will also offset a bent knuckle ( if not severe ) and one has to wonder if the alignment shop would simply adjust alignment to compensate without even knowing what is truly wrong.
I wish there was a way to determine with 100% certainty that knuckles are bent as it's such a criticle component.

That sucks who ever tried to give you the bone doesnt seem too bright. Im glad you were able to see through the BS. Was it followed by a buy my part?
 

Madcowranch

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That sucks who ever tried to give you the bone doesnt seem too bright. Im glad you were able to see through the BS. Was it followed by a buy my part?

Haha. Loki once again being passive-aggressive. Why don't you just say what's on your mind?:snoopfacepalm:
 

Biggest

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That sucks who ever tried to give you the bone doesnt seem too bright. Im glad you were able to see through the BS. Was it followed by a buy my part?

I assure you no one tried to give me " the bone" or sell me any product, the comments were out of pure concern.
 
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BIRDMAN

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I thought I would share Phyguy's post from today: http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f112/2013-baja-1000-carnage-29022/

Let this be a reminder to you all, this this is a REAL problem. It truly means a lot to me because honestly, as bad as Phyguy's situation looks, he faired well with "only" a few thousand dollars of damage and I'm assuming no bodily harm. Thankfully.

I don't care what flavor of Kool-aid you're drinking, call your favorite Raptor parts supplier and upgrade your steering knuckles before your next off-road excursion.

It's becoming more apparent to me with yet another case with Phyguy that the uniball upper control arm upgrades are also contributing to the knuckles bending/breaking. Upgrade your Raptor right or don't upgrade it at all.
 

ntm

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It's becoming more apparent to me with yet another case with Phyguy that the uniball upper control arm upgrades are also contributing to the knuckles bending/breaking. Upgrade your Raptor right or don't upgrade it at all.

How are they contributing ?
Binding from not clearancing the top of the knuckle ?
 

bstoner59

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How are they contributing ?
Binding from not clearancing the top of the knuckle ?

By strengthening the uppers the knuckles become the next weak link. Especially with 3.0's giving us all the ability to hit things harder and faster. I bent both stock uppers on my first truck but they never broke. The alignment was a pain to get straight but nothing too bad.
 

Wilson

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this is good stuff

Quote:
Your suspension starts with your wheels and tires. Your tires are the only part of your vehicle to contact the ground while off-road. Well, unless you're rasco or Motumute then basically the entire underside of your truck contacts the ground at some point, but I digress.
 

pirate air

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The aftermarket uppers with solid uni ball mounts offer no give unlike the rubber bushing stock stuff. The rubber will at least deflect some of the load.
 
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BIRDMAN

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Yes, what pirate said. Also, the stock upper arm ball joint sits right against the knuckle at the taper. The aftermarket arms have longer pins which seat into the taper at a distance greater than stock between the top of the knuckle and the upper arm. On full compression the upper arm is already pushing out on the top of the knuckle. Add some length to the pin (leverage) and you effectively increase the amount of force being placed on the neck of the knuckle below the taper.
 
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