Ball Joint replacements

[All The Way]

Mine had to be pressed in

 

[Yukon Joe]

Are you guys sure K500193 is the correct part number? I ordered two from Rock Auto, pulled the stock BJ out and the MOOG joint slides right up into the arm and there's a little wiggle room in there. It should fit tight and have to be pressed back in. Definitely not the case with the MOOG joints I received. The boxes they were in both have K500193 on them too.

Got any pictures?


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[TheJoker]

Are you guys sure K500193 is the correct part number? I ordered two from Rock Auto, pulled the stock BJ out and the MOOG joint slides right up into the arm and there's a little wiggle room in there. It should fit tight and have to be pressed back in. Definitely not the case with the MOOG joints I received. The boxes they were in both have K500193 on them too.

I checked 2 sites and this is the correct part number. Is the part number stamped on the bottom of the ball joints? They should have to be pressed in. Are the sides splined like these AC Delco ones?

If they don't fit snugly, I would give Moog a call 888-406-2330

 

[KaiserM715]

Are you guys sure K500193 is the correct part number?

I checked the Moog site and they list this number specifically for the Raptor. The other F150s are a different part number, K500008.

I checked 2 sites and this is the correct part number. Is the part number stamped on the bottom of the ball joints? They should have to be pressed in. Are the sides splined like these AC Delco ones?

From the pic on Moog's site, they are not splined.

If they don't fit snugly, I would give Moog a call 888-406-2330

+1

 

[RangerRob]

Thanks for everyone's replies. I'm gonna try getting an OEM joint from Ford to see if it will fit tight into the arm. Only other thing I can think is maybe the bj cup stretched some when I pressed out the old joint. I'll be really pissed if I have to replace the LCA.

 

[Ratpatator]

Been there done that one. That's actually was my first idea of the noise but I knew I had already replaced the aluminum ones to the Chrome moly ones. I checked all the bolts that the upper mount uses but they were all tight.
I'm going to pull the entire front suspension on both sides off and inspect it with a fine tooth comb. I don't think it is the sudden drop return of the shock after a small bump clunk that is typical of the 3.0 shocks. I know what that sounds like.
Thanks again for the ideas.

Sorry I realize this is an older post but I was reading about our situation and I have an identical problem. Sound comes from both sides but is a lot louder and more frequent on the passenger side. I was wondering if you have figured out what the clunk was for sure. Im having a hard time believing that this is the shock sound, I'm thinking ball joints also as everything is fairly new except LCA and UCA. I also have the 3.0. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Grunzen]

I'm putting in the MOOG BJ's and new tie rods this weekend as well as cleaning out and re-lubing the IWE and hub area. I'll post up on the results. Hopefully, I can get it done soon enough to knock out the alignment also. I think my front end is 2inches higher than it was the last time I got an alignment so got a little issue there.

UPDATE

Got the ball joints and tie rods replaced and did the second torquing today.
90% of the noise is gone now. Definitely, have some other things going on but I'm not feeling anything thru the steering associated with the noises. Most of the noise sounds like loose skids and noise from the rear. At least now I can hear the noise though.

My passenger side IWE is messed up though. No metal shavings but had good old Colorado granite sand packed in it. Cleaned and regreased for now but it is on the list for replacing as well as hubs.

 

[40oz]

Could a bad/worn ball joint or bushing in the control arm be the root of a clunk sound when traversing very shallow abrupt level changes on and off road?

 

[All The Way]

Could be a upper one also. I know the right upper is smoked and makes all kinds of noise.