Ball Joint replacements

[phydough]

Mil, You can just do a visual on the control arm bushings. Look at them with the weight of the truck on the ground. If the bolt looks too close to the edge of the hole, they are probably toast. When worn or torn, the bushing allows the arn to get too close to the frame and "bang". Yes, I said it that way.
I can't remember, do you still have a front sway bay? If so, check the end links and bushings on it.
Is this the same side that "fell off"?

 

[Mil T]

Sway bar has been off since I got the truck. I have the RPG UCA's with Fox 3.0's. RPG tie Rods and have replaced Rod Ends with new not to long ago. I've checked all nuts, bolts, rod ends etc. to make sure everything is tight. It is the same side. I replaced the LCA with a new one when that happened. Its been 35K miles since that happened.
The noise is only noticeable when I am driving on a rough section of asphalt with cracks in the pavement. It sounds like a loose shock banging but I know everything is tight. I will be replacing ball joints this week and will really look at the bushings on the LCA's when I am in there. Thanks for your ideas.

 

[ntm]

Other items to check are to see if you have the older aluminum hats on your 3.0's, as they were prone to cracking.
And of course the lca shock bolt for torque.

 

[Yukon Joe]

Other items to check are to see if you have the older aluminum hats on your 3.0's, as they were prone to cracking.
And of course the lca shock bolt for torque.

That's a good idea. If that upper mount is cracked, RPG / Fox will replace it for you. @Madcowranch posted photos of this last year.


Buy a raffle ticket for Avery: win an awesome prize.
http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f195/november-pay-forward-event-38746/#post780993

 

[Mil T]

Other items to check are to see if you have the older aluminum hats on your 3.0's, as they were prone to cracking.
And of course the lca shock bolt for torque.

Been there done that one. That's actually was my first idea of the noise but I knew I had already replaced the aluminum ones to the Chrome moly ones. I checked all the bolts that the upper mount uses but they were all tight.
I'm going to pull the entire front suspension on both sides off and inspect it with a fine tooth comb. I don't think it is the sudden drop return of the shock after a small bump clunk that is typical of the 3.0 shocks. I know what that sounds like.
Thanks again for the ideas.

 

[SDHQJASON]

Have you checked the bearings in the shock rod ends? They wear out too.

If they are loose by hand or if you can wiggle them, they are toast and need to be replaced. We keep them on the shelf.

 

[Mil T]

Have you checked the bearings in the shock rod ends? They wear out too.

If they are loose by hand or if you can wiggle them, they are toast and need to be replaced. We keep them on the shelf.

no I haven't and that is what it sounds like it could be. I keep thinking it's a loose shock in some way. Thanks Jason

 

[phydough]

Cab mounts? My front left has a broken cage nut and I get to cut a hole in my floor. It gives me a clunk with hard bumps that I can feel with my left foot.

 

[Mil T]

Cab mounts? My front left has a broken cage nut and I get to cut a hole in my floor. It gives me a clunk with hard bumps that I can feel with my left foot.

I'll look. When I put the truck up on the lift I discovered that the front left shock connector to the shock reservoir was just barely touching the outside shock mount near the top. When It' s on the ground it touches, When it's in the air it's not so I've put a piece of hard plastic in to see if I continue to hear the noice. I think it may be time to tear everything down and freshen up.

 

[RangerRob]

Are you guys sure K500193 is the correct part number? I ordered two from Rock Auto, pulled the stock BJ out and the MOOG joint slides right up into the arm and there's a little wiggle room in there. It should fit tight and have to be pressed back in. Definitely not the case with the MOOG joints I received. The boxes they were in both have K500193 on them too.