AutotecPro 14.4" Screen - Install and Tech Thread

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Nacho226

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Has anyone been able to figure out how the equalizers work between the Sync and the android? Does the Sync equalizer only apply when using Sync or does it carry over to the android as well and vice versa? I haven't had much time to play around with it, but on my drive to work this morning I did notice that it sounded a bit more edgy/sharp than before. I tried some of the android pre-sets but it sounded like it was going to blow my speakers out. I have an 801A w/out B&O or Sony; I'm not sure which system the base raptor uses as it has no brand on them. Also if anyone has some equalizer recommendations of their own, feel free to share them.
 
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Has anyone been able to figure out how the equalizers work between the Sync and the android? Does the Sync equalizer only apply when using Sync or does it carry over to the android as well and vice versa? I haven't had much time to play around with it, but on my drive to work this morning I did notice that it sounded a bit more edgy/sharp than before. I tried some of the android pre-sets but it sounded like it was going to blow my speakers out. I have an 801A w/out B&O or Sony; I'm not sure which system the base raptor uses as it has no brand on them. Also if anyone has some equalizer recommendations of their own, feel free to share them.
So, here's what I've landed on with this:

The DSP (digital signal processor) that is built into the Autotech rides on top of the Sync sound settings. If you have a bunch of stuff on that music app turned on like the app EQ... now you have three (or more) different EQ's running over each other. That's why you are hearing a drastic (and shiddy) difference in volume and quality when you switch out of Sync to a different app.

If you are running any music app on the screen besides Sync, these steps should give you a little better sound:

  1. Reset the Sync EQ to default (FLAT)
  2. Set the surround sound to "Stereo" instead of "surround"
  3. Make sure you have ALL EQ settings in ALLof the music apps you use set to FLAT or turn the EQ off in the app, if you can.
    • Do this on ALL music apps on your device! Even if you aren't using them. Apple Music, for example, will f*ck with other apps sound because Apple is, well, diabolical.
    • This goes for any of the other playback settings in the apps - Normalization, Loudness, Spatial Audio, DSP, Dolby, etc.... turn it all off.
  4. Now, go into the audio settings on the AutoTech and go to the DSP feature screen. Play with the settings in there until it sounds "right" to you. I will post pictures of how mine is set shortly. I will tell you, it's real sensitive!
  5. The Autotech, and probably the others from Ali, should have the source volume set to 25. That's where mine was anyway. I left it there. You can mess with it if you want. I'm assuming they did this to get the highest voltage signal they could into their DSP. I'm curious if that could be a way to override/trick the bass defeat (ahem) "feature" that is built into Sync/B&O that attenuates the subwoofer after the volume passes 15..... not sure on this and haven't messed with it. Yet.
Keep in mind, the Sync is completely independent of the settings in the Autotech. This means, if you play music from the Sync system (Sirius, AM/FM, etc) it will ONLY use the Sync sound settings. So, that music will sound FLAT because the Sync EQ settings are flat. If you use Sync for music often, that can be annoying. I don't, so I don't care.

Hope this helps! I'll post pics of my EQ settings in a minute.
 
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Nacho226

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So, here's what I've landed on with this:

The DSP (digital signal processor) that is built into the Autotech rides on top of the Sync sound settings. If you have a bunch of stuff on that music app turned on like the app EQ... now you have three (or more) different EQ's running over each other. That's why you are hearing a drastic (and shiddy) difference in volume and quality when you switch out of Sync to a different app.

If you are running any music app on the screen besides Sync, these steps should give you a little better sound:

  1. Reset the Sync EQ to default (FLAT)
  2. Set the surround sound to "Stereo" instead of "surround"
  3. Make sure you have ALL EQ settings in ALLof the music apps you use set to FLAT or turn the EQ off in the app, if you can.
    • Do this on ALL music apps on your device! Even if you aren't using them. Apple Music, for example, will f*ck with other apps sound because Apple is, well, diabolical.
    • This goes for any of the other playback settings in the apps - Normalization, Loudness, Spatial Audio, DSP, Dolby, etc.... turn it all off.
  4. Now, go into the audio settings on the AutoTech and go to the DSP feature screen. Play with the settings in there until it sounds "right" to you. I will post pictures of how mine is set shortly. I will tell you, it's real sensitive!
  5. The Autotech, and probably the others from Ali, should have the source volume set to 25. That's where mine was anyway. I left it there. You can mess with it if you want. I'm assuming they did this to get the highest voltage signal they could into their DSP. I'm curious if that could be a way to override/trick the bass defeat (ahem) "feature" that is built into Sync/B&O that attenuates the subwoofer after the volume passes 15..... not sure on this and haven't messed with it. Yet.
Keep in mind, the Sync is completely independent of the settings in the Autotech. This means, if you play music from the Sync system (Sirius, AM/FM, etc) it will ONLY use the Sync sound settings. So, that music will sound FLAT because the Sync EQ settings are flat. If you use Sync for music often, that can be annoying. I don't, so I don't care.

Hope this helps! I'll post pics of my EQ settings in a minute.
This is very helpful. Much appreciated!
 
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I just order my autotec 14.4”. Do you guys recommend anything special for sound system ( speakers, bass, etc). I have a super crew so is a bit smaller for subwoofers and stuff.
 
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I just order my autotec 14.4”. Do you guys recommend anything special for sound system ( speakers, bass, etc). I have a super crew so is a bit smaller for subwoofers and stuff.
I would suggest trying what you have first. Then make adjustments from there. The Autotech screen has a DSP (Digital Signal Processor) that you need to make play nice with the SYNC unit's DSP. I would suggest doing that first before adding a bunch of extra new stuff on top of it. Might save a lot of headache for you in the long-run.
 

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Fist of all I love your post, very detailed and easy to understand! This post is why I bought the Autotech, I even ended up doing the same thing with the USB's, looks super clean.

So I am at the part of routing all the wires. Do you have to use the mic that came with it or will the OEM one's work? If so, where did you put it? I was thinking about putting it in a different place than at the top of the A-pillar that the video shows.
 
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Fist of all I love your post, very detailed and easy to understand! This post is why I bought the Autotech, I even ended up doing the same thing with the USB's, looks super clean.

So I am at the part of routing all the wires. Do you have to use the mic that came with it or will the OEM one's work? If so, where did you put it? I was thinking about putting it in a different place than at the top of the A-pillar that the video shows.
Awesome! That right there is what it's all about (for me). Thanks!

I didn't use the Autotech mic. The OEM seems to work fine.
 
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UPDATE:
I bought a Mint Mobile data card for the truck a few months back. I wanted to see if using the Android-side of this unit was worth having a seperate data card (instead of just using CarPlay). The thought was I could use the Mint Mobile service for a passenger hotspot and to stream video for the kiddos. I also thought I wanted to use Spotify and Waze in split screen for most of the time, instead of the Nav on my iPhone.

This weekend, I did a factory reset on the unit and just went back to using CarPlay. :confused:

The two SIM/Phones didn't play nice together. The split screen setup didn't hold over, so I had to redo it everytime I started the truck (Nova Launcher didn't help with this... at least, I couldn't get it to work). Spotify was buggy on the Android side. The unit would freeze often. I would loose my steering wheel controls intermittantly where it would try to control the Console and not Spotify. The last straw was I lost the camera system last friday. It just quit. :mad: I use that to see a line on the floor in my garage when I park (there is little room for error between hitting the gun safe and the garage door not closing). CarPlay got mad at me and would no longer connect the AutoTech at the end either. There were just too many little issues that became annoying. I probably messed up some setting somewhere... so I can't blame the Mint SIM or Autotech, or even Apple. But, I just went back to square one and wiped everything.

I use Nova Launcher to run a very basic homescreen for start up: 4 buttons (Console, Settings, CarPlay, and Google Play Store) with a Raptor background pic. CarPlay starts up automatically in a few seconds so that is the main screen I use now. The Mint SIM is still in the unit. It hasn't thrown any fits, yet, but I also haven't messed with anything. All works well again. So, I guess I will just leave things as-is and be happy with it.
 
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