Anyone tow a bass boat with their Raptor?

[stevenstommyboy1]

I have a 2010 5.4 and tow my 20 foot deck boat around a lot. No issues so far. Power is good and the truck does not sag much in the back. I have the OEM leaf springs ect... Its 4500 pounds. You will enjoy espoecially with the 6.2. Lots of extra power.

 

[Stingray23]

Thanks guys. This is what the boat will look like. Its a 20'4" boat with a tandem axle trailer with brakes. Its over 25' with the trailer and motor.

I was also recommended this hitch:
B&W TS10048B Tow and Stow Magnum Receiver Hitch Ball Mount : Amazon.com : Automotive

 

[6gun]

These trucks tow better than any other gas-powered truck or SUV IMHO. I've towed the Mastercraft (approx 5500 lbs overall with 500lbs tounge weight and 30' on the trailer) with Yukon Denali, Surburbans, other PU's, a Lexus LX470 and the ultimate - Raptor. The Raptor's width makes it totally stable even in heavy crosswinds or rain slick roads. Torque is ample. Fuel economy is better than all the others for me (best I got with the others was 11mpg, now I get 12 at 65mph. Some tips I've learned the hard way - take em or leave em:

I like 4-flat plugs best personally and blow right by the round plugs, I've have had nothing but trouble with them....others may swear by them.

Don't plug the boat trailer lights in when the truck lights are on, you will probably blow the 20 amp fuse (#73) feeding the trailer light relay. Familiarize yourself with the fuse box. I unplug lights before dipping the boat. Carry spare brake/turn light bulb.

Roger on "trailer backing up parking lot training/practice" - also, think about who is going to drive boat or truck. You and your other driver need to practice both. Might just save your marriage one day....I am always so proud when my wife and/or daughter jumps out of the boat and runs to get the truck and backs right down the ramp....other guys just stare in amazement. Don't be those guys who stare.

I repack my trailer bearings yearly no matter what. It's not at all hard to do, just takes about 20-30 minutes per wheel. You DO NOT want to shell a trailer bearing on the road, it will ruin a whole weekend, I've done it. Even if the wheel doesnt come off the axle and pass you on the freeway, the bearing failure usually takes the axle shaft with it, then you are looking for both the bearings and an axle to get welded on. Carry and extra set of bearings with you and some grease and a cap. When you stop to let your passengers pee, check the bearings, warm to pretty warm - ok, hot to "it burnt my MF'ing finger" - not good at all - roadside repack/repair called for. I used to use bearing buddies, no more, once they heated up, I would sling them off leaving the bearing exposed...not good.

My trailer has surge brakes, I love em.

Unless your boat cover is made for the road, pull it off. If you don't, the wind will.

Don't forget the plug.

I top off my boat battery and hit the starter in the driveway before I get to the ramp...nothing worse than hearing the click...click...click of a dead battery. I also keep cables in my boat just in case I have problems on the water.

Finally, towing/launching/retrieving a boat is all about forumlating a process, a written or mental checklist and repeating it every time you go out. Do just a few easy things right, and you will enjoy every outing. IJS

By the way, that is one beautiful fishing rig!!!

 

[IARaptor]

It will be fine... I pulled a 35' all last summer with my 2011. Probably a little much for it but it pulled great!

 

[6gun]

Sting, you axed about the hitch bar and posted a link. To me, that looks like overkill unless you are towing multiple trailers, particularly at $200 smackers. My suggestion is to measure the tounge height on the trailer at level and visit a trailer place and get a drop down hitch bar that gets close (w/in 1" high or low) from the truck receiver. Some thoughts on the bar you posted:

- It's way expensive. I have 2 hitch bars and I don't think I paid $25 for the one I use most. I think it is rated for 6000lbs and 1000lbs tounge-weight and you aren't near either of those.
- Its gonna be heavy and bulky, difficult to wrap in a rag and throw under the seat
- The adjustment bolts on the hitch are just another possible failure-mode linking the boat and truck, not to mention a possible grounding issue for the trailer lights ground.
- You'll probably want to lock it on the truck. It's likely to vanish unexpectedly.

 

[Stingray23]

Thanks. I was recommended that hitch thats why I posted it. It seems unnecessarily too expensive. All I know is that the hitch has to be 19 off the ground. Thats what I was told.

 

[6gun]

Thanks. I was recommended that hitch thats why I posted it. It seems unnecessarily too expensive. All I know is that the hitch has to be 19 off the ground. Thats what I was told.

Not trying to dis your source and no doubt that's a beautiful piece and would last a lifetime....but.....I did a quick search and found this.... I wouldn't think you would need more drop than this, but i would measure anyway just for grins....and check your ball size....or have your wife and/or GF check em.

Rigid Class III, IV Hitch Ball and Ball Mount Assembly UB-409-17

 

[blockdoc]

....and check your ball size....or have your wife and/or GF check em.

No need to check. You drive a Raptor; they're huge.

 

[6gun]

No need to check. You drive a Raptor; they're huge.

Yes, but regular inspection by an authorized technician ensures ongoing successful and worry-free operation.