GEN 2 Anyone running more than 1500 watts rms having Voltage issues?

[Nerdles1]

Is anybody having trouble running multiple amps over 1500rms having voltage issues? If so using capacitors? Or upgraded alternator?


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[Guy]

I’ve got about 1550 RMS. A thousand of it is going to dual subs. I had to squeak it out. I upgraded the wires to the alternator, which was a huge pain and you have to drop the skid plate as well.... and I went with the best northstar gel battery I could find and all the voltage dips went away.

I have a 2 farad capacitor in a box I never used.

Granted the only time I had problems was volume levels over 20 with big bass songs.

 

[Nerdles1]

Which battery from North Star? Did it fit no mods? I’m going for about 1900rms so looks like I’m gonna have to travel the same road. Any wire upgrade kit for alt or did you dive into some molex/plug action?
Sorry for all the questions just trying to prepare.


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[Nerdles1]

Doubled post sorry

 

[Nerdles1]

Which battery from North Star? Did it fit no mods? I’m going for about 1900rms so looks like I’m gonna have to travel the same road. Any wire upgrade kit for alt or did you dive into some molex/plug action?
Sorry for all the questions just trying to prepare.


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[dhmcfadin]

I’m running 3 amps-Audiocontrol 6.1200, 4.800, 1.1500- 3500 watts total. Plus other components. 2 runs of 1/0 to the rear of the truck and 2 1/0 directly back to the battery. Upgraded main vehicle power and all ground connections. Stock alt, stock alt wiring, stock battery. Never dip below 14 volts while cruising, never below 13.5 at idle. Using two digital meters to monitor. One mounted on the amp rack, one mounting on the center console. No power issues at all.

 

[Guy]

Biggest difference in our wiring is that You ran home runs to the battery for your grounds as well. I think that’s what made the difference. I grounded to the frame.

I probably could have saved the headache of putting 1-0 wires on the alternator. Live and learn there.

The battery I bought is what is spec’d for our truck, but the cranking amps and continuous amperage rating is in another league. It doesn’t quite fit into the battery box. The screw clamp to secure it won’t fit. I made a battery strap for it with 150lb zip straps. Wasn’t a big deal.

I’m running 3 amps-Audiocontrol 6.1200, 4.800, 1.1500- 3500 watts total. Plus other components. 2 runs of 1/0 to the rear of the truck and 2 1/0 directly back to the battery. Upgraded main vehicle power and all ground connections. Stock alt, stock alt wiring, stock battery. Never dip below 14 volts while cruising, never below 13.5 at idle. Using two digital meters to monitor. One mounted on the amp rack, one mounting on the center console. No power issues at all.

 

[dhmcfadin]

Biggest difference in our wiring is that You ran home runs to the battery for your grounds as well. I think that’s what made the difference. I grounded to the frame.

I probably could have saved the headache of putting 1-0 wires on the alternator. Live and learn there.

The battery I bought is what is spec’d for our truck, but the cranking amps and continuous amperage rating is in another league. It doesn’t quite fit into the battery box. The screw clamp to secure it won’t fit. I made a battery strap for it with 150lb zip straps. Wasn’t a big deal.

I agree with you. I really am a believer in the direct battery ground. Makes a big difference.

 

[Nerdles1]

Dhmcfadden has helped me with some info in another thread. I am also doing both ground and power runs straight to the battery with a 1/0 wire size will see what happens first I guess can always buy a battery and do wire upgrade later.


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[dhmcfadin]

Dhmcfadden has helped me with some info in another thread. I am also doing both ground and power runs straight to the battery with a 1/0 wire size will see what happens first I guess can always buy a battery and do wire upgrade later.


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That was my thought process. I’m already running wire, doesn’t hurt to run another down the same path while I have everything apart.