Air oil separator instead of a catch can?

[FORZDA 1]

Ok, it’s pretty obvious that “people” do not understand PCV systems.

The PCV valve is not a one-way check valve and those occ kits that include one are crap. The PCV valve has a very light spring that allows air to flow both ways at relatively (but not precisely) equal pressure between the intake manifold and crankcase and only closes to one-way when the intake manifold pressure is high enough (greater than current barometric pressure) to force it closed to prevent pressurizing the crankcase.

The atmospheric (~14.7psi barometric) air required for the PCV system to operate (if air flows out, it must allow some in) enters the crankcase through a clean-air hose attached to the intake piping after the filter and before the turbo.

When the intake is in vacuum the clean air is allowed into the crankcase (no valve here) as the intake vacuum sucks it into the intake manifold.

When the intake manifold is in high pressure above baro, the PCV is closed and the crankcase pressure (blow-by) is forced through the clean-air hose into the turbo inlet. The turbo blows it throughout the intercooler and cold-air piping all the way through to the throttle body. The intercooler generally cools the oil mist which allows the oil to fall out of suspension and collect at the lowest point in the intercooler.

The PCV oil catch can allows some of the crankcase pressure oil-mist to collect, condense and be periodically drained. The best and only way to prevent oil in the intake piping is oil catch cans on both the PCV hose AND the fresh-air hose from the turbo intake pipe-to-crankcase hose.

 

[sixshooter_45]

Ok, it’s pretty obvious that “people” do not understand PCV systems.

The PCV valve is not a one-way check valve and those occ kits that include one are crap. The PCV valve has a very light spring that allows air to flow both ways at relatively (but not precisely) equal pressure between the intake manifold and crankcase and only closes to one-way when the intake manifold pressure is high enough (greater than current barometric pressure) to force it closed to prevent pressurizing the crankcase.

The atmospheric (~14.7psi barometric) air required for the PCV system to operate (if air flows out, it must allow some in) enters the crankcase through a clean-air hose attached to the intake piping after the filter and before the turbo.

When the intake is in vacuum the clean air is allowed into the crankcase (no valve here) as the intake vacuum sucks it into the intake manifold.

When the intake manifold is in high pressure above baro, the PCV is closed and the crankcase pressure (blow-by) is forced through the clean-air hose into the turbo inlet. The turbo blows it throughout the intercooler and cold-air piping all the way through to the throttle body. The intercooler generally cools the oil mist which allows the oil to fall out of suspension and collect at the lowest point in the intercooler.

The PCV oil catch can allows some of the crankcase pressure oil-mist to collect, condense and be periodically drained. The best and only way to prevent oil in the intake piping is oil catch cans on both the PCV hose AND the fresh-air hose from the turbo intake pipe-to-crankcase hose.

So from what you've stated, does the UPR catch can fill all those requirements?

And for Raptor 2019 will any codes be thrown after Installation?

I've been researching catch can systems for a while but never needed one until now.

I believe that the RX can was the original catch can developed by Tracy Lewis and he has a warning on his site about RXp, (RX team Performance), which he has no affiliation with.

"Team RXP deceptive business practices"

Any way RX the original ones are supposedly the best but dang if I know.

I know a lot of folks here use the JLT but I've read where it's not very effective.

I think I'm getting a catch can migraine.

 

[Z7What]

If my understandings of what the differences of Oil Separator(Catches & Holds Oil/Contaminates) and AOS(Catches & Drains Oil/Contaminates Back Into Motor) is correct, I would HIGHLY suggest you NOT run a AOS.

Just to make things clear I have a 2013 5.0L, although a completely different engine than the Gen2 Eco, id bet the results would be similar.

The reason for this is because of the contaminates. Long story short, I ran there standard billet oil sepatator for a year or two and was happy with the results. They then released there Single/Dual Valved kits. I got one and swapped to it from the standard billet one. Its been so long I cant remember if I had the standard billet kit or the valved kit at the time but I ended up saving the oil I collected and sent it out to Black Stone Labs to have analyzed.

I live in South Louisiana that can be very humid and have 30-40* temperature changes in less than 24hours. The first sample I sent off was during the warmer months of the year, the second sample was during the colder months of the year.

Ill let the results speak for themselves.

 

[Z7What]

As a comparison here is what the oil from the crank case looks like.



Wayne

 

[sixshooter_45]

I think I'm going with RX Performance as they state that they are the original developers.

Not sure who is original but I prefer their install video and their newest system even though it's expensive but so is my engine.

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