37" BFG ATs

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MajorAR

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Fellas, wouldn't it be alot less ass pain to just install the Glassworks fiberglass fenders? There is only 2" of rise and very discreet....looking very close to stock.

Very affordable too.
 

MajorAR

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JB, I wonder if that is the trend for that brand of fender? Or were you the exception?
 

BAJASVT

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Fellas, wouldn't it be alot less ass pain to just install the Glassworks fiberglass fenders? There is only 2" of rise and very discreet....looking very close to stock.

Very affordable too.

"Affordable" is a pretty relative term. The cost of the fenders themselves and prep/paint on top of the price of the tires isn't exactly chump change to me. Plus, to make them look factory, you need the fender liners too. The shipping on parts this size is pretty pricey too if you don't live on the west side of the country.

I don't have experience with Glassworks fenders on a Raptor, but I've installed Glassworks, Autofab, FiberwerX, Hanneman, and Perry's glass on several older Rangers, F-150s, Broncos, Explorers, etc. and the fit and finish wasn't exactly OEM quality on any of them... they take quite a bit of prep work to bring them close to OEM quality. Generally speaking, I've found Glassworks to be the best of the bunch in terms of quality, but every once in a while you'll get a bad apple that just looks like plain :poop:.

---------- Post added at 04:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:14 PM ----------

my set of glassworks fit like shit

Exactly! He's got Glassworks and of the probably 15+ sets of fenders and bedsides that I've seen from various manufacturers, that's about the average as received condition. They take quite a bit of prep work to get them ready for paint and OEM quality fit. I'm not crazy about owning a nearly $60k truck with body panels that look like they were produced in a 1980 Yugo factory.

As mentioned, I have not seen the Boatecs or any Raptor fiberglass in person.
 
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MajorAR

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BJ, negative. But am in the process/researching possible COA's vice hacking on my Vic.


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vanilla_gorilla

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Any reason you didnt feel like adding a 1in bed and cab lift instead?
ITs quite easy now since everything is cable controled. I ran body lifts on all my older trucks from 1/2in to 2 in. I never went higher than 2 cause its hard to make panels look good any higher. A 1in lift on the cab and body would let the 37s clear so it seems. For me, I dont want to do anything to my truck that involves drilling or cutting since I like to upgrade to the newer technology often so I could remove the 37's, return to stock and sell or trade easy.

Not a fan of body lifts, and I don't have any plans on selling my truck, and if i do, well here it is, take it or leave it. I want my truck to perform as best as it can for me and my needs, and the trim work i did is easy and minor. I also plan on dovetailing the rear, so i'm not done hacking away... :evillol:

I thought about doing that too, but I'm not sure if 1" would do it. If the top of the tire is making contact, then it sounds like 1" would do the trick. If the back of the tire is hitting on the vertical parts of the flare, pinch weld, fender, etc., then it would probably take more like 2-3" of body lift to gain the clearance.

I guess it depends on where the tires are making contact. Anyone who has not trimmed have tires that made contact when bottoming out the suspension? Where do they hit?

Vanilla - I was under the impression that the pinch weld modifications were recommended for wheeling with the 37" BFGs, but I wasn't aware about the fender and flare trimming. Is this necessary for the BFG too or only the other true 37" tires?

If you read Bigg50 build thread, and I happen to wheel with him up here in NorCal, he hit a nice bump, tucked the tires and shoved his fender up, cracking it. By trimming the "hidden piece of the fender, you remove that tire to fender contact point. Again, if you do NOT plan on offroading, you don't need to go that extreme, I plan on getting really dirty this spring/summer/fall.

I think I have similar reservations as you to making the mods to fit 37" tires. I've come to accept that I may have to mod the pinch weld; while I'm not wild about it, I guess I'd do it because it will be hidden. The trimming of the flare is a little too visible for me. I'm hoping I can run 37" BFG on the OEM wheels without trimming the flare.

---------- Post added at 03:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:43 PM ----------

Yeah, I think with 1" or less it'd be ok. The bumper heights could probably be adjusted fairly easily or maybe the OEM holes would just need some minor slotting. The fuel filler neck should be accommodating of 1" of vertical shift. The steering intermediate shaft is telescoping and should be ok too, but I'd want to unbolt it from the column or rack to see how much extra stroke it has to be sure. The VCS sensors will be fine and the additional roll to the RSC system from a 1" lift is probably negligible at best.

Eh, the flare isn't that bad, and if you really want to make it look "pretty" you could run a piece of plastic or rubber, attached to the flare to hide the little gap. My truck is not here to win any beauty contests and function > form in my book. Plus, once you mount these tires, you will love the look. Bigg50 was even taken back by how good they look on these trucks in person. You gotta put some skin in the game to play. :slap:

---------- Post added at 02:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:05 PM ----------

With the fiberglass fenders will you still need to trim the pinch weld

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If you plan to offroad, yes...you should...

---------- Post added at 02:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:06 PM ----------

Maybe Tizz can post up some pics exactly where the tire rubbing is occurring.

If it's anything like what i had, its when braking and turning into the drivers side. It'll rub a little on the liner. GO turn you wheel, even with 35s, just parked, and you'll see where the points of contact can be.
 
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