37" BFG ATs

[TheJoker]

I was about to order these from a friend of mine who owns a tire shop. He told me to wait until March because BFG was going to be offering a $50 rebate on them starting in March. His distributor had just mentioned this to him in passing and he wasn't sure if it was $50 per tire or $50 total, but I Googled and it appears it's just a single $50 gift card. I'm not really in a hurry, so I think I'll wait.

BFGoodrich Rebates & Promotions - BFGoodrich Tires

---------- Post added at 06:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:26 PM ----------

Also, there's not a ton of markup on tires by retailers these days. The best price I could find these for was $355 and they were out of stock. He said he can get them in 1 day and his cost is $338 per tire.

Thanks for the heads up.

While on the site, I looked up local BGF dealers. Sam's Club and Ford dealers came up. I wonder if these 2 places might have the best prices?

 

[svtippy]

without glass im looking for a pic of the stock fenders worked so the 37 will fit

 

[vanilla_gorilla]

Guys, they will fit, but there will be some minor rubbing.

You could probably get away with out cutting or trimming if you never go offroad or take a speed bump, but if you plan on offroading, i would highly recommend the full trim job, it's really easy and if you do it right, it'll still look factory.

Otherwise, stick with 35s.

 

[KaiserM715]

What year truck?

Have we confirmed that the 37's on stock wheels at mid-perch on a 2013 without any cutting/bending/hammering won't rub? I don't want to buy 5 tires only to find out they rub.

There is not a difference in the fenders between the year models.

---------- Post added at 08:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:03 AM ----------

You could probably get away with out cutting or trimming if you never go offroad or take a speed bump, but if you plan on offroading, i would highly recommend the full trim job, it's really easy and if you do it right, it'll still look factory.

Did you get a chance to take some pics of the trimming that you did?

 

[BAJASVT]

There is not a difference in the fenders between the year models.

No, but someone said there's a difference in the front fender liners... something about the 2010-11 trucks being different (less clearance) than the 2013-14 trucks. I don't remember what category a 2012 fell into.

---------- Post added at 09:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:13 AM ----------

If someone sends me a VIN for a 2010-11 truck, I can try to see if the part number for the liner that the truck was built with is different than a 2014 part.

 

[Madcowranch]

I think Tizzie said something to that effect.

 

[BAJASVT]

]If someone sends me a VIN for a 2010-11 truck, I can try to see if the part number for the liner that the truck was built with is different than a 2014 part.

It appears that the 2010-2012 used liner part 9l3z-16103-a, but it may have been superseded by by part al3z-16103-d in 2013. Maybe a dealership employee with more parts experience can confirm.

 

[KaiserM715]

It appears that the 2010-2012 used liner part 9l3z-16103-a, but it may have been superseded by by part al3z-16103-d in 2013. Maybe a dealership employee with more parts experience can confirm.

Good to know. I didn't know that they were different.

 

[Ramrodthrusterpuppy]

What year truck?

Have we confirmed that the 37's on stock wheels at mid-perch on a 2013 without any cutting/bending/hammering won't rub? I don't want to buy 5 tires only to find out they rub.

I can say that, in my application, a 2012 SCrew running 37/12.50/17 BFG ATs on OEM beadlocks (+34) with the mid-perch mod and no other trimming/cutting that I have had no rubbing at all in daily driving, over speedbumps and even in mild off-roading (i.e. muddy trails, slow speed articulation). Now if I were going over jumps, dunes, whoops I'd suspect I may have some rubbing or if I wanted to run 0 or -12 offset wheels....then I would look into other mods such as 'glass fenders, trimming, etc. But again, IMO, wheel offset is the determining factor in a 37" tire rubbing assuming everything else is the same....the more negative offset, the more chance of rubbing.

 

[vanilla_gorilla]

The liner isn't the issue here, and offset really isn't eaither...the issue is if you plan to offroad, you need to hammer down the pinch weld BEHIND the liner, and trim off some of the fender behind the flare and some of the flare. If you don't plan to offroad, ever, then you are fine, you will have some rubbing on the liner, but you won't cause any damage.

Here are the pics of the pinch weld once you remove the flare and liner. I will get pics of the cut of fender and flare tomorrow, i have to take it apart, since i got wrapped up in just working on my truck Saturday.

pic1: This shows the pinch weld "protector", so if you did come in contact with the pinch weld, this would give a smooth surface to protect the tire...this get unbolted (see orange arrows) and scrap it.

pic2: the red line indicate relief cuts, the red circle shows an angle cut. Then beat down the pinch weld with a really big sledge.

pic2: The orange shows what i trimmed off on the flare, the orange circle shows the rear liner screw ole i kept, along with one near the front, the rest were cut off.

pic3: Shows towards the front of the truck, notice the flare has been trimmed, no more holes. The flare is still snugly attached with just the pinch clips into the fender. Also notice the orange circle, it shows the front hole for the liner in the fender. also note the cut in the fender above the bolt.

pic4: the rear of the wheel well. no holes in the flare, and the orange circle highlights the rear hole for the liner to attach to the remaining part of the fender (see the angled cut, thats whats left of the fender).

I'll get more pics of the cut fender, which is under the flare tomorrow. Hope this helps.