2019+ Fox 3.0 Live Valve Shocks!

[NEOGARAGE]

No they don't. Mine were installed were no preload unknowingly and I came out with zero lift. I plan on adding some preload once I get my rear springs.

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Interesting! Can you send me a picture of the front preload right now? I'm curious.

 

[OEMPlus Raptor]

Sure no problem. So that's how they came from the factory. To a certain extent it's okay for now since I plan on adding rear leaf springs and haven't decided anything in the rear yet. Just don't want anyone to think they automatically come in with a 2inch lift. They're set at factory height, but again I plan on lifting 2.0 inches

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[NEOGARAGE]

Sure no problem. So that's how they came from the factory. To a certain extent it's okay for now since I plan on adding rear leaf springs and haven't decided anything in the rear yet. Just don't want anyone to think they automatically come in with a 2inch lift. They're set at factory height, but again I plan on lifting 2.0 inches

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I wonder if it’s a hit or miss how the tech assembling them does it.

I’m going to see with the three coilover pairs we have in stock here

 

[OEMPlus Raptor]

Mmmm doubt it. The shop posted pictures (Instagram) of them prior to going on and they were set at 0 preload. I would be curious as to what you have in stock has them at. Unless they dialed them down without me knowing. Honestly I did not open them prior to install, so I can't be 100 percent sure. The shop is well respected and I'm sure they would've asked prior to installing if I wanted some preload.

 

[Ryan C]

As mentioned, I called Fox and they stated that the Live Valve 3.0 factory race C/Os come with no preload and are stock height. I installed mine with approximately 7/8" preload, after taking them to a shop with a spring compressor (before install to be clear - adjusting preload on the truck would be a huge PITA). The C/Os did not settle right away and caused a big shock to me given they were at first really high on unlevel ground (above Deaver +3s, with front admittedly on the uphill side on my driveway), but a quick drive changed that and everything seems to have settled down to where they are now at just below the Deaver +3s from a ride height perspective. I will post pictures of ride height measurements at front and rear fenders once I have some time to get it onto level ground.

 

[OEMPlus Raptor]

That would be great as I'm trying decide what to look for when I get either Deavers or Icon rear springs.

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[Ryan C]

Here are some install pics of Factory 3.0 Live Valves, SVC Upper Control Arms, and KHC stage 1 slot deletes. All done in my driveway. It was not easy, but I took my time and tried to be as patient as I could.




Fox 3.0s
10 threads of preload (~ 13/16")
Fronts - 8 3/4" fender gap to tire both sides
Rears - 9" and 9 1/4" fender gap to tire
This is with Deaver +3s with 300 pounds or so of extra weight in the bed (tools, jack, an additional spare from what is underneath the truck and SVC bumpstop kit), plus full tank of gas.

SVC UCAs
I've just done an alignment by eye in my driveway, so have to take it in to get that professionally done. It was actually pretty easy to get it to what I believe is close using the SVC arms and tie rods. For toe in, I put a straight edge on top of a Tupperware, and aimed it back to the rear tires. Super ghetto but it was easy to see that way, and way easier than a tape. When the straight edge was parallel with the rear tires, I called it good enough until I can get the truck on an alignment rack this week. Camber was just a matter of adjusting the UCAs until nearly vertical. Caster - I frankly have no idea and so just kept the UCAs about the same on each side. All this will be taken care of this week, but I wanted to share as when I first put the truck on the ground after the install, it was a mess.

Also, couple things about the SVC UCAs - make sure you have clearance for the big 1.5" ball joints to your rim/tire combo. I have about 1" here (as shown in the pic), and this is with 5.5" backspacing wheels and stock size tires.

Perhaps more importantly, the SVC UCAs require drilling of the spindle to get the 3/4" bolts to fit. This is not for the faint of heart but it was actually pretty easy. Use a step down bit, 3/4", and as small a drill as you can find so you can fit it in while keeping it all centred. I actually took a knife to my 12v drill to trim it down to allow it to fit. Also, drill the upright from the bottom (as per SVC).

KHC stage 1 slot kit
This was all pretty easy, but sure wasn't quick. Don't be a dummy like me and unbolt both sides of the sway bar at once... keep one side bolted up to the frame, complete that side, then move to the other side. Make sure to put the little 5/16" bolts through before aligning the Lower Control Arms and bolting it all down. The instructions suggest this can be done after putting the LCAs back into place, but that's not necessarily true for each plate. The kit moved the LCA outwards on each side by about 5/16".

Ride
I haven't taken these out yet (finished install yesterday and have to get an alignment this week), but I am really excited to see how they do. Alone the rears are awesome, especially paired with the SVC bumps and Deaver +3s. The front 3.0s should be a significant improvement (and should help save my skid plate - at least a little).

 

[NEOGARAGE]

Here are some install pics of Factory 3.0 Live Valves, SVC Upper Control Arms, and KHC stage 1 slot deletes. All done in my driveway. It was not easy, but I took my time and tried to be as patient as I could.

View attachment 154148View attachment 154152View attachment 154154View attachment 154155


Fox 3.0s
10 threads of preload (~ 13/16")
Fronts - 8 3/4" fender gap to tire both sides
Rears - 9" and 9 1/4" fender gap to tire
This is with Deaver +3s with 300 pounds or so of extra weight in the bed (tools, jack, an additional spare from what is underneath the truck and SVC bumpstop kit), plus full tank of gas.

SVC UCAs
I've just done an alignment by eye in my driveway, so have to take it in to get that professionally done. It was actually pretty easy to get it to what I believe is close using the SVC arms and tie rods. For toe in, I put a straight edge on top of a Tupperware, and aimed it back to the rear tires. Super ghetto but it was easy to see that way, and way easier than a tape. When the straight edge was parallel with the rear tires, I called it good enough until I can get the truck on an alignment rack this week. Camber was just a matter of adjusting the UCAs until nearly vertical. Caster - I frankly have no idea and so just kept the UCAs about the same on each side. All this will be taken care of this week, but I wanted to share as when I first put the truck on the ground after the install, it was a mess.

Also, couple things about the SVC UCAs - make sure you have clearance for the big 1.5" ball joints to your rim/tire combo. I have about 1" here (as shown in the pic), and this is with 5.5" backspacing wheels and stock size tires.

Perhaps more importantly, the SVC UCAs require drilling of the spindle to get the 3/4" bolts to fit. This is not for the faint of heart but it was actually pretty easy. Use a step down bit, 3/4", and as small a drill as you can find so you can fit it in while keeping it all centred. I actually took a knife to my 12v drill to trim it down to allow it to fit. Also, drill the upright from the bottom (as per SVC).

KHC stage 1 slot kit
This was all pretty easy, but sure wasn't quick. Don't be a dummy like me and unbolt both sides of the sway bar at once... keep one side bolted up to the frame, complete that side, then move to the other side. Make sure to put the little 5/16" bolts through before aligning the Lower Control Arms and bolting it all down. The instructions suggest this can be done after putting the LCAs back into place, but that's not necessarily true for each plate. The kit moved the LCA outwards on each side by about 5/16".

Ride
I haven't taken these out yet (finished install yesterday and have to get an alignment this week), but I am really excited to see how they do. Alone the rears are awesome, especially paired with the SVC bumps and Deaver +3s. The front 3.0s should be a significant improvement (and should help save my skid plate - at least a little).

View attachment 154147

Talk about some useful info!

I did indeed open the 3.0 coilovers just to check the preload, and these all had build dates of mid-late September too, and the preload was what Rick was saying. I wonder if the live valve versions are just set this way, but in my experience the Toyota Fox coilovers and the non-LV versions did provide lift out of the box on the installs we've done here. Always learning and gaining knowledge!

I didn't mean to give false info, but we are all always learning!

 

[OEMPlus Raptor]

Talk about some useful info!

I did indeed open the 3.0 coilovers just to check the preload, and these all had build dates of mid-late September too, and the preload was what Rick was saying. I wonder if the live valve versions are just set this way, but in my experience the Toyota Fox coilovers and the non-LV versions did provide lift out of the box on the installs we've done here. Always learning and gaining knowledge!

I didn't mean to give false info, but we are all always learning!

Really good information. Thank You for the post!

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[Ryan C]

Further update on ride with the preload set at 3/4" on the collars (I remeasured them and they are not 13/16" as indicated in my earlier post). when the truck is extending the shocks downwards, for example on potholes, or over a significant speed bump, there is a bit of a thud as the shocks are reaching full extension. I believe this is because there is now less downtravel in the overall system given the preload. For the way I drive, I do not like this sensation, as it unsettles the truck on these types of features. I will be contacting Fox and hopefully, a number of vendors, to see what they might recommend for ideal preload settings. I see that Foutz motorsports Raptor set up for the Baja included slightly longer springs, and while that gives ride height clearance improvements on my truck as well, I think I am overall too high (or really, I am too high and this means I no longer have enough down travel/droop). I will report back on this, for the benefit of anyone considering how to set these when first installing.

R