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just waiting on main studs from arp and then I'll be recommencing my build... the scarcity of remanufactured motors almost made me want to get one and put it on a shelve as a just in case, like insurance, money and space nix'ed that plan of course... hope everyone finds a replacement motor...

Yes, they should get it right... you should demand them to do so, however, given what has occurred so far, it will likely cost you more of your time without any guarantee of success... not any help now, but I would never recommend have a dealership do an alignment... I would take it to a...

And we have connecting rods!

We have connecting rods... or at least they finally shipped from Manley, be here tomorrow... hooyah... need to wrap up my current project so I can get back into engine building....

holy hijacked thread batman!

i just beg to differ, no supercharger, naturally aspirated 6.2L, i bought Icon leaf springs, still had some axle wrap, improved over stock, but unacceptable to me... within weeks ordered and installed RPG traction bars...

both r/ agp

$55K and reserve not met, I can't imagine what the reserve is...

I think it would be a fun bit of fab work to run the tail pipes inboard of the hangers, tight to the frame and out the back... in my case I have the ADD brace and bump stop setup which crowds that area and complicates the routing since it braces against the rear frame crossmember in the picture...

absolutely true, no dovetail, but dovetail or no dovetail does not change the position of the rear spring hangers which are in your way to tuck the exhaust pipes any higher outboard the frame rails... if you ditch the spare you could bring the tail pipes inboard of the frame rails and likely...

the issue with keeping the exhaust high and going straight back is the rear spring hanger... thats why the upper pipe ducks down, to just clear the spring hanger

I fabbed the tail pipes below, it would not be hard to send them straight back towards the dove tail... This was a SW performance connect dual exhaust setup married to a set of their long tube headers.... the tailpipes though are all my creation, 3" SS exhaust tubing... it is tight but doable...

no worries... positive... same cam actuators, same rocker shafts, valves, springs, retainers, and keepers... can't speak for a super duty 6.2 w/LNG or LPG package, might be different there, but I have never seen one of those motors...

I overpaid, $800 for a pair of verified good condition (for rebuild) super duty heads because I thought I needed them right now, jokes on me 6 months later still waiting on connecting rods from Manley...

You should never pay a premium for a ford 6.2 head, tons of 6.2 super duty trucks out there, no difference other than the cam, each cam costs less than $100 new from Tasca. See what you can get, and folks do try and sell "raptor" heads for a hefty premium, just not something i would do... I...

Installed some KHC bed support brackets with a couple of d-rings...

Just don't put it in the stock location, move in front of radiator mounted to radiator support, near where most of the p/s coolers mount... https://gj-motorsports.com/Ford-F-150/2010-2014-F-150-Power-Steering-Reservoir or just go with the Lee Power Steering setup

https://www.monstertransmission.com/Quick-Ship-Engine--Ford-62-Liter-2V-Super-Duty-NON-CNG_p_18668.html#.Yd8xUMhOlhE a cam swap away from being a new motor for your raptor

last thought, you really want to get the stall speed right, when you get it wrong it can take all of the fun out of driving the vehicle you installed it in... first hand experience... be very honest with manufacturer (and yourself) about intended use... again mustang world street/strip is a...

Hesitate to say, my experience is mustangs when it comes to aftermarket torque converters, often the centrifugal s/c is married with cams to take advantage of the power adder which all tends to push the power band up in rpms (if stock power band was 1500-5500 with cams that power band may move...

lead frame is the electronics part of the transmission valve body...

Just make sure you talk with the torque converter company at length and in detail about your application and look for their recommendation... actual hp/torque, gear ratio, intended use (are you ever going to tow), vehicle weight, etc all play a role in what they might recommend... most...

:smiley-face-popcorn