i had to find a used motor. nothing new available. and rebuilds were almost twice the cost of a longblock
She Ded....rod through the block ded
- Thread starter MurderedOutSVT
- Start date
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I decided to have mine rebuilt while replacing the motor since everything was going to be disassembled anyway. Seemed like a good idea at the time.
Ended up having a slow leak that took 4 return trips to the shop and eventually pulling the tranny again to get fixed. Shop found that the replacement pump bolts in the rebuild kit didn’t seal correctly, so fluid slowly leaked down into bell housing and dripped out the inspection cover. They replaced them with Motorcraft bolts and problem was finally solved. By the fourth trip, I was REALLY regretting the decision to rebuild it.
I also installed a new Full Race radiator and trans cooler a few weeks after the new motor was installed. In hindsight, it probably would’ve been a little easier to just do it all at the same time.
I wonder where these guys are getting theirs...
https://www.indmar.com/engines/raptor-575/
https://www.indmar.com/engines/raptor-575/
CoronaRaptor
FRF Addict
They say its from the f250 series motor.
CoronaRaptor
FRF Addict
Hang onto that motor, it's probably rebuildable and those heads aren't available, well the passenger side isn't. You should be able to get top dollar for it. For sale ad " it ran before I parked it last year" lol.
Just wanted to chime in with some food for thought. I've replaced an engine on my buddies Raptor and a transmission on my father-in-laws F150 fairly recently. So no, the entire powertrain does not have to come out at once. On the engine, while we did remove the cooling system, we actually did not evacuate the A/C IIRC. Just unbolted the compressor and kind of moved everything off to the side. We lifted the engine out with a hoist because we didn't have a setup to lift the cab with. I remember just unbolting the upper radiator support and tilting the condenser forward enough to give us a little extra room when yanking her out. Not saying this the way you have to do it. That's just how we did it.
So regarding the transmission question; everything I know about the 6R says it's a pretty robust unit. My FIL's had of 300k miles before we swapped it out and to say his truck is not very well maintained is a gross understatement. It's a beat on work truck and a testament to the build quality. He had me do his first tune-up at over 300k. He's over 340k now and the thing runs like a top. I've done regular maintenance to mine (Fluid flush, filter change) and it's smooth as can be. I debated doing the lead frame while I was in there but opted against it. So I say, unless you have have the money and just want to do it, let it be. As long as it was working fine prior, just maintenance it and call it a day. Now I might consider doing a new torque converter, if I were in your shoes, but that's me. Hope that helps. If you have any questions, just hit me up.
So regarding the transmission question; everything I know about the 6R says it's a pretty robust unit. My FIL's had of 300k miles before we swapped it out and to say his truck is not very well maintained is a gross understatement. It's a beat on work truck and a testament to the build quality. He had me do his first tune-up at over 300k. He's over 340k now and the thing runs like a top. I've done regular maintenance to mine (Fluid flush, filter change) and it's smooth as can be. I debated doing the lead frame while I was in there but opted against it. So I say, unless you have have the money and just want to do it, let it be. As long as it was working fine prior, just maintenance it and call it a day. Now I might consider doing a new torque converter, if I were in your shoes, but that's me. Hope that helps. If you have any questions, just hit me up.
OP
OP
Thanks. TQ converter is not a bad idea. Whats the lead frame?
bubblehead93
Full Access Member
Just make sure you talk with the torque converter company at length and in detail about your application and look for their recommendation... actual hp/torque, gear ratio, intended use (are you ever going to tow), vehicle weight, etc all play a role in what they might recommend... most advertised 6R80 torque converters out there with advertised stall speeds assume they are going in a mustang... that same torque converter behind a 6.2 would behave completely different... that being said, a new or refurbished stock stall converter is a smart thing to do while you have it all apart if you have a bunch of miles and abuse... it would not surprise me that if a torque converter specialist recommended a converter with very near to stock stall speed since with a roots/screw supercharger your torque comes in at low rpm, almost off idle... unlike a cammed N/A or centrifugal s/c application where the power band shifts up in rpm from stock.
bubblehead93
Full Access Member
lead frame is the electronics part of the transmission valve body...
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