Your Raptors Audio System

[scootr2200]

http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f12/opinion-audio-components-52373/index2.html

I asked the same question in post #16 and had a reply from Noah.

I too am still following the other forums, but still feel a processor may be a better choice.

Mickey

 

[billj214]

Mickey,

I actually have a Helix DSP Pro running off the Sony amp outputs but even with this configuration you are limited to what the head unit or sony amp provide your DSP. After tuning my DSP using this configuration it's necessary to run some frequency levels at max and others at min while still unable to achieve that frequency and anything over 12k is missing entirely and this is not due to my components used.

The PAC interface is an alternative to using Forscan to program the PCM/Sony amp to remove the frequency programming and provide a flat output. The issue I have with Forscan programming is that programming can be overwriting by the dealership at any time with a software upgrade which means you have to program it again and who knows if the program will still work.

My suggestion to you is prioritize the PAC unit over a DSP, the PAC unit is programmable to customize frequencies based on your output and if it sounds good to you then your done, as a bonus down the road you can add a DSP if you need it. The main reason I was following threads on use of the PAC is to find out what the frequency output is, most of the DIYMA guys will use O-scopes or mic's to measure output.

I will have my PAC delivered this Friday and installed by the following week where I can help provide a little more feedback. Also FYI I found another site to buy the PAC unit, it was on Walmart.com for $215.

FYI, Thanks for feedback.

 

[billj214]

See post #364
http://diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=315746

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[Lvrkight6481]

The question with the pac unit becomes if it retains all sync voice features chimes alerts etc. In addition does all audio still work as well over the optional optical for those with a DSP

 

[AJOmar]

after reading this post, I am now convinced in going with the DSP route to change all factory speakers + sub. I have two questions while I am still in the planning stage:
1- to connect the DSP I woud need to access the OEM amp, which is under the center console, any videos on how to get there? or should I just collect wires from each door and pillar then extend them and run them back to where the DSP is?
2- in a 6to8 DSP, what are the 6 channels going in? tweeters+front and back doors? what about the sub channel?

I am looking at something below 500$
I can't seem to find a used mosconi 6to8
I am looking at the audison bitone at the moment, they keep poping up at around 500$ every once in a while, but mostly they are around 700$ used! and the bit ten has only 4-channels input
many people in other forums swear by the PPI 88r, while others recommend avoiding it completely, plus it has only 4-channels in
there is also the minidsp 6X8, but I need to do some more research on that

 

[billj214]

The question with the pac unit becomes if it retains all sync voice features chimes alerts etc. In addition does all audio still work as well over the optional optical for those with a DSP

Yes, all chimes and Nav voice is retained, same on optical.

---------- Post added at 07:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:49 AM ----------

after reading this post, I am now convinced in going with the DSP route to change all factory speakers + sub. I have two questions while I am still in the planning stage:
1- to connect the DSP I woud need to access the OEM amp, which is under the center console, any videos on how to get there? or should I just collect wires from each door and pillar then extend them and run them back to where the DSP is?
2- in a 6to8 DSP, what are the 6 channels going in? tweeters+front and back doors? what about the sub channel?

I am looking at something below 500$
I can't seem to find a used mosconi 6to8
I am looking at the audison bitone at the moment, they keep poping up at around 500$ every once in a while, but mostly they are around 700$ used! and the bit ten has only 4-channels input
many people in other forums swear by the PPI 88r, while others recommend avoiding it completely, plus it has only 4-channels in
there is also the minidsp 6X8, but I need to do some more research on that

You may have misread, no reason to access the amp or convert to low level, also a DSP is not as critical as using PAC device or Forscan modification but DSP is a very powerful tool for optimizing sound quality.

 

[AJOmar]

sorry I didn't mean after reading your post only, I meant after reading every post in this thread I decided to get a DSP. For its price, the PAC looks like a good solution, but it is missing a lot of features, it would be appealing to me if it had at least some active crossovers (unless that "Bass / Mid / Treble Freq / Q Factor" is some sort of BP crossover that they forgot to mention in the manual)
otherwise, I will opt for a DSP that does everything the PAC is doing plus the crossovers, frequecy adjustment, time alignment...etc. it is a bit difficult to justify both units.
with that said, I still want to learn some best practices from people here regarding wiring a DSP, especially the part about where and how to tap into the car wires to get the DSP inputs

 

[billj214]

sorry I didn't mean after reading your post only, I meant after reading every post in this thread I decided to get a DSP. For its price, the PAC looks like a good solution, but it is missing a lot of features, it would be appealing to me if it had at least some active crossovers (unless that "Bass / Mid / Treble Freq / Q Factor" is some sort of BP crossover that they forgot to mention in the manual)
otherwise, I will opt for a DSP that does everything the PAC is doing plus the crossovers, frequecy adjustment, time alignment...etc. it is a bit difficult to justify both units.
with that said, I still want to learn some best practices from people here regarding wiring a DSP, especially the part about where and how to tap into the car wires to get the DSP inputs

I guess it's not super obvious on this thread but the factory head unit does not provide a flat signal and cuts off at 12khz so having a DSP is only part of the solution. You will need either a PAC unit or program your ACM for line level output and add an RCA adapter. Prior to my having the PAC no matter how I tuned the DSP it sounded bad, now it's crisp clean signal, full spectrum.

Fyi, like your truck, same as mine!
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[AJOmar]

You're right it wasn't very obvious, but I'm now more confused because looking back at the RTA images Noah shared it shows that the tweeter and the back door signals do cover the high end. So wouldn't going with a DSP that takes in 8 inputs then summing every signal the car produces solve the problem? I'm almost sold on the RF 3sixty.3 which takes 8 channels input
And yeah I noticed that you have a blue flame truck too, the only true raptor color if you ask me

 

[billj214]

You're right it wasn't very obvious, but I'm now more confused because looking back at the RTA images Noah shared it shows that the tweeter and the back door signals do cover the high end. So wouldn't going with a DSP that takes in 8 inputs then summing every signal the car produces solve the problem? I'm almost sold on the RF 3sixty.3 which takes 8 channels input
And yeah I noticed that you have a blue flame truck too, the only true raptor color if you ask me

Yes I had summed the back signal as well on my DSP which was the only way you can get decent audio. I'm no audio expert but using a mic to tune DSP before and after adding the PAC is where I noticed a large delta in available frequencies. Prior I was unable to achieve a flat signal across 20-20k and nothing above 12k, now with PAC I can tune all frequencies flat with no issues.

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