Xpel + opti-coat pro +

[Hal]

I thought I discussed the coating more or less blocking the self healing properties of XPEL Ultimate. I know I talked about that with someone on this forum in one of the threads over the last couple of days. If I didn't coat protective film with CQuartz I would more than likely use Car Pro Reload. Just depends. And to be 100% honest the coating is so incredibly thin that I can't confirm whether it actually blocks the self healing properties of some films or not as the coating is nano thin. We were all told that they will block the self healing properties but I don't know that to be 100% accurate.

EDIT: I did cover that in one of my first comments on the first page.

This goes back to my earlier question, why is the coating put on top of xpel instead of underneath?

I fully admit car care and coatings are something I know nothing about. This is the first vehicle that I've cared to protect. However, in my youth, I was an avid painter. I figured these coatings were pretty much like clear coat used in hobby painting. I looked at it like clear paint to protect the base paint job. I viewed xpel like cell phone screen protector. Clear coat the truck first. Then put xpel, which should self heal most stuff. If you ever mess up the xpel bad enough, you replace it and hopefully nothing got through to the coating or base paint. If you put coating on after, xpel won't heal the same and if something bad enough happens you have to replace both the xpel, and have a new coating applied.

Am I way off base here?

 

[BajaFred]

Very close, think teflon and ice skating

Any sealant or ceramic is like teflon, very slick so you'll run into adhesion issues, lifting and general PITA install since xpel will be hard to stick

As for the protection on top of xpel - same reason you seal a marble countertop - xpel is porous but very durable - you want to protect it so it doesn't get "stained" by the everyday stuff that sticks to a car

As for a sealant vs ceramic and xpel self healing, think of a frozen lake

Frozen top layer is ceramic
Unfrozen water is self healing xpel
Ice skaters are everyday scratches
Fishing hole are major hits

Ice skating leaves grooves all over the ice (ceramic), they do not go deep enough for the water (xpel) to flow up and refreeze ... if you cut through the ice to fish, the hole will eventually reseal (xpel) but the top layer will be forever scarred (ceramic)

Time for a stretch, a Zamboni machine is the sealant ... you strip off the old sealant, give xpel a chance to self heal then reapply the sealant like running a Zamboni across the lake every day, it will fill and seal all the damage from ice skating and fishing holes

Ceramic doesn't do this since it is intended to be a semi-permanent layer vs a "disposable" sealant

All this is only to keep a dark vehicle scratch free

On light vehicles, I go ceramic on top of xpel since the scratches never become that apparent

 

[u0104940]

Sealant can also in rare occasions discolor over time. If this is applied under the Xpel, that would be an expensive fix. I've always Xpel the front of my vehicles, this will be the first time doing a sealant as well. I hope to have the truck by next weekend and I will post as I go along about this. My plan was to Xpel certain areas and the Opti-Coat Pro+. But after reading about CQuartz I will be looking into this as well.

 

[ajacob1]

@TRIMMELL how come you suggest to put the Car Pro Essence over the CQuarts? The reason i ask is because from Car Pro's site it says "Primes surface for CQuartz or Reload"

 

[ajacob1]

also would you guys recommend to do the rockers as well? its 656.32 (500 USD).

 

[u0104940]

also would you guys recommend to do the rockers as well? its 656.32 (500 USD).

Only if you planned on doing some off-roading. I did my G1 and it held up great. But if it's a daily street driver, not sure I would worry too much about it. But then again I'm in Cali, so conditions on street are usually prime.

 

[ajacob1]

I work in oil and gas and will be travelling to remote sites with this vehicle. Will be on truck hauling roads that do get pretty rough.

 

[TRIMMELL]

@TRIMMELL how come you suggest to put the Car Pro Essence over the CQuarts? The reason i ask is because from Car Pro's site it says "Primes surface for CQuartz or Reload"

Car Pro Essence is used as a primer and then CQuartz is applied over what the Essence leaves behind. You still use CQuartz but I have been final polishing with Essence and then applying CQuartz over the top of the resins that Essence leaves behind. It creates an excellent bottom layer for the CQuartz to bond with.

---------- Post added at 01:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:02 PM ----------

This goes back to my earlier question, why is the coating put on top of xpel instead of underneath?

I fully admit car care and coatings are something I know nothing about. This is the first vehicle that I've cared to protect. However, in my youth, I was an avid painter. I figured these coatings were pretty much like clear coat used in hobby painting. I looked at it like clear paint to protect the base paint job. I viewed xpel like cell phone screen protector. Clear coat the truck first. Then put xpel, which should self heal most stuff. If you ever mess up the xpel bad enough, you replace it and hopefully nothing got through to the coating or base paint. If you put coating on after, xpel won't heal the same and if something bad enough happens you have to replace both the xpel, and have a new coating applied.

Am I way off base here?

You put coating over the top of XPEL film to make the film and the parts of the unfilmed truck super easy to clean. Think of coating as a super super super thin layer of clear coat. Coating eventually just breaks down and will need to be applied. Putting it under XPEL film would literally do nothing. But maybe make your XPEL a huge pain in the ass to remove later on. If you want the self healing properties don't cost XPEL ultimate just to be safe but if you want the best protection and ease of washing then coat over the top of XPEL.

---------- Post added at 01:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:07 PM ----------

Very close, think teflon and ice skating

Any sealant or ceramic is like teflon, very slick so you'll run into adhesion issues, lifting and general PITA install since xpel will be hard to stick

As for the protection on top of xpel - same reason you seal a marble countertop - xpel is porous but very durable - you want to protect it so it doesn't get "stained" by the everyday stuff that sticks to a car

As for a sealant vs ceramic and xpel self healing, think of a frozen lake

Frozen top layer is ceramic
Unfrozen water is self healing xpel
Ice skaters are everyday scratches
Fishing hole are major hits

Ice skating leaves grooves all over the ice (ceramic), they do not go deep enough for the water (xpel) to flow up and refreeze ... if you cut through the ice to fish, the hole will eventually reseal (xpel) but the top layer will be forever scarred (ceramic)

Time for a stretch, a Zamboni machine is the sealant ... you strip off the old sealant, give xpel a chance to self heal then reapply the sealant like running a Zamboni across the lake every day, it will fill and seal all the damage from ice skating and fishing holes

Ceramic doesn't do this since it is intended to be a semi-permanent layer vs a "disposable" sealant

All this is only to keep a dark vehicle scratch free

On light vehicles, I go ceramic on top of xpel since the scratches never become that apparent

And to add to what you've said. Coating isn't exactly thick enough to show scratches as far as I know. If you see scratches they have more than likely made it through the coating and into paint. Coating is seriously nano thin. It's nowhere close to even a single coat of clear coat. Proper wash methods will make it extremely difficult to scratch but it is still quite easy to scratch.

 

[ajacob1]

If anyone has completed the Xpel + opti coat pro+ combo already please post some pics!

 

[flea_sly]

Car Pro Essence is used as a primer and then CQuartz is applied over what the Essence leaves behind. You still use CQuartz but I have been final polishing with Essence and then applying CQuartz over the top of the resins that Essence leaves behind. It creates an excellent bottom layer for the CQuartz to bond with.

---------- Post added at 01:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:02 PM ----------



You put coating over the top of XPEL film to make the film and the parts of the unfilmed truck super easy to clean. Think of coating as a super super super thin layer of clear coat. Coating eventually just breaks down and will need to be applied. Putting it under XPEL film would literally do nothing. But maybe make your XPEL a huge pain in the ass to remove later on. If you want the self healing properties don't cost XPEL ultimate just to be safe but if you want the best protection and ease of washing then coat over the top of XPEL.

---------- Post added at 01:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:07 PM ----------



And to add to what you've said. Coating isn't exactly thick enough to show scratches as far as I know. If you see scratches they have more than likely made it through the coating and into paint. Coating is seriously nano thin. It's nowhere close to even a single coat of clear coat. Proper wash methods will make it extremely difficult to scratch but it is still quite easy to scratch.

TRIMMELL,

Thank you for all the useful information in this matter! I plan on getting a 18' SCREW and wanting protection for my paint also.

I'm interested in seeing some pictures from fellow members on this matter.