How To Wire Raptor AUX upfitter switches

[Fastcote]

Thought I would add this for those that want a solder connection but are too shaky, lazy or apathetic to do the soldering.

It a solder-splice. Use it like a but/crimp connection but instead of crimping, just hit it with a heat gun. the center part solders the wire and the blue bands heat shrink over the jacket.

 

[Yukon Joe]

Thought I would leave this here. It had helped me in the past.

I believe bigJ put this together.

Yukon Joe
www.RUNRAPTORRUN.com

 

[The Macf]

What was Ford thinking putting that black shit on there? I ended up having almost 1 1/4" of exposed copper on each wire.

Nevermind the midget hand space....

 

[Nick@Apollo-Optics]

What was Ford thinking putting that black shit on there? I ended up having almost 1 1/4" of exposed copper on each wire.

Nevermind the midget hand space....

My only guess is liability concerns so they got a little over zealous on properly sealing off all the wiring. Total PITA that's for sure.

 

[starkall]

Very good write up and shared info!

 

[Sitdown]

Forgot how helpful this thread was, thanks

re-wired mine recently, found a long vice grip through the doorside opening to be a nice helping hand.

 

[HAYNES OFFROAD]

Check out this thread if you want plenty of length on your under dash aux wires http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f81/who-wants-extra-length-their-aux-wires-pics-inside-33314/

 

[GeauxOffRoad]

I'm about to wire up a pair of Rigid Dually's (flood) as additional reverse lights to Aux #4.

(my first mod on this truck, ever)

My question would be.. Rigid's wiring set up comes with 3 wires/ends that go to their own switch, but since I'm using the upfitter switches, I can completely ignore that right?

So do I cut it, or just leave it?

Basically the red wire with the metal ring goes to my passthru wire (after i mate it behind the glove box) and the black wire gets grounded.. and all that other stuff that should go to the rigid switch just gets ignored or cut, right..?

Also, is there any write up about sneaking wire from the rear bumper all the way into the glove box area? I'm assuming I'm going to have to buy some gauge of cable and add to rigid's provided wiring.

Lastly, in the discussion about soldering versus crimp connectors, vs, butt connectors, etc. What about the type that is... strip an inch off both wires, twist them together, and then screw on the plastic cap that has metal threads on the inside... is that a decent method in any way/shape or form?

I know NOTHING about wiring and electrical, so I apologize if these questions are ultra-newbie-status.

thanks!!
-Arthur

I never saw an answer to this guys question but I am wondering the same thing. I would think the switch wires from Rigid would need some kind of power to think that the switch is "on". Can someone with rigid's advise? Thanks.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

the rigid lights have a relay and switch that cone with it. if you are wiring to the oem switches, all you need is power and ground. as a quck bit of advice, when i ran a wire from the front to the back, i ran a lot of extras along with an 8ga power cable. i have a fuse block that it connects to in the back. so if i need to connect anything in the rear of the vehicle, i can add a relay in the back and connect the (aux) wire i already ran to my switch up front. no more running wires multiple times.

 

[GeauxOffRoad]

the rigid lights have a relay and switch that cone with it. if you are wiring to the oem switches, all you need is power and ground. as a quck bit of advice, when i ran a wire from the front to the back, i ran a lot of extras along with an 8ga power cable. i have a fuse block that it connects to in the back. so if i need to connect anything in the rear of the vehicle, i can add a relay in the back and connect the (aux) wire i already ran to my switch up front. no more running wires multiple times.

Great, thanks! Working good. The amount of wire you have to work with for the up-fitter switches is ridiculous!