What did you do to your Raptor today? (Gen2)

[Todd Turbo S]

Been lurking for a few weeks now and had parts waiting before the truck even showed up. Many thanks to all the useful members and threads on FRF.

My 2020 802A SCrew showed up on my birthday. I've already done the following:
- tinted (20% over fronts)
- made a custom wiring harness for future plug and play
- Added the Baja S2 Reverse kid from @OffroadAlliance.com
- Hardwired my valentine , installed built right/67 designs combo and snaked the cable up behind the dash, small hole with a grommet keeps it clean,
- @Swarfworks license plate mount for my 4x4 permits
- Sprayed 4 cans of Amsoil MPHD on the frame I haven't even hit 250 miles yet, truck is awesome. No regrets getting rid of my 2014 Silverado 1500.

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The “plug and play” looks like a very clean application. Would you mood sharing materials you used and how you essembled?

 

[EastEndAngler]

@Todd Turbo S - sure.

I actually grabbed my inspiration from this thread: https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/who-has-the-best-aux-light-install.75137/page-3

My supplies were as follows (I realize I could have gone with much higher quality components if I really wanted to , but these will suffice for my needs)

Main Harness: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H3N21MD/?tag=fordraptorforum-20
- This a 12 pin harness. Each of your factory up-fitter wires lands to a wire on the harness (I used the connectors linked below). I then consolidated the remaining 6 wires into 2 grounds. These got extended to reach an existing ground nut on the frame near the battery box. I used a simple pin out where the top row goes to aux wires and the bottom row are my grounds.

Pigtails: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FT8S9Z3/?tag=fordraptorforum-20
- On the other "side" of the 12 pin harness, I used the connectors below to make dedicated pigtails for each of the aux switches. I prefer running a solid ground for my lights as opposed to the nearest bolt you can find.

HeatShrink/Solder butt connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RMRCC3/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

When I wired my S2 reverse kit, I dragged 2 additional 14x2 conductor cabling thru the frame to future proof myself. I skipped the reverse light tap and currently have them on Aux3. I used to some automotive wiring harness tape and my fancy heat-shrink labeler to really keep it clean. I'll try to get some better pictures of it installed on the truck.

 

[jamanrr]

@Todd Turbo S - sure.

I actually grabbed my inspiration from this thread: https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/who-has-the-best-aux-light-install.75137/page-3

My supplies were as follows (I realize I could have gone with much higher quality components if I really wanted to , but these will suffice for my needs)

Main Harness: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H3N21MD/?tag=fordraptorforum-20
- This a 12 pin harness. Each of your factory up-fitter wires lands to a wire on the harness (I used the connectors linked below). I then consolidated the remaining 6 wires into 2 grounds. These got extended to reach an existing ground nut on the frame near the battery box. I used a simple pin out where the top row goes to aux wires and the bottom row are my grounds.

Pigtails: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FT8S9Z3/?tag=fordraptorforum-20
- On the other "side" of the 12 pin harness, I used the connectors below to make dedicated pigtails for each of the aux switches. I prefer running a solid ground for my lights as opposed to the nearest bolt you can find.

HeatShrink/Solder butt connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RMRCC3/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

When I wired my S2 reverse kit, I dragged 2 additional 14x2 conductor cabling thru the frame to future proof myself. I skipped the reverse light tap and currently have them on Aux3. I used to some automotive wiring harness tape and my fancy heat-shrink labeler to really keep it clean. I'll try to get some better pictures of it installed on the truck.

I have been running threw my mind a little bit on how I want to do this. Why not use the dedicated black ground wire from the underhood bundle? I like your idea of repinned connectors. I would and could do that with the harness but soldering imo could be cleaner and I am assuming two grounds one with 3 wires each. I have done pretty well wiring harnesses up.

 

[Oldfart]

I have lived in Idaho/Montana and never had a problem with frost. Turn on your heater and let your windshield defrost. I don’t believe in scrappers as I am not going to scratch my windshield to remove something. It doesn’t matter how careful you are when scrapping, all kinds of fine particles can be mixed into the ice/windshield from driving and so on, which is nothing but a recipe for scratches.

As I noted before, ExoShield is made in Ontario, so they are no strangers to winter weather. The ceramic coating on top of the film just gives it added protection. I also added it on the windshield wipers just to further insure that no debris sticks to the wipers causing scratches as the wipers function across the windshield.


I picked up my truck this week after it sat for five days. The film is clear and does not effect visibility—even with my 3M 50% Crystalline full windshield tint. I am very pleased.

In the northeast you will have no choice but to scrape unless you keep your truck indoors a good bit in the winter and don't take it out. If it's one of those days where it's near freezing, but raining, you can literally have a solid inch or more of ice on your entire vehicle. You may have to stop while your driving to scrape ice off. Thankfully a plastic scraper will not scratch your glass. Even if you let it run for a long time, you'll still have a giant ice wall on the windows. Farther north it's much better, farther south it's much better. PA is in the middle of the icing zone.

 

[911 Crazy]

In the northeast you will have no choice but to scrape unless you keep your truck indoors a good bit in the winter and don't take it out. If it's one of those days where it's near freezing, but raining, you can literally have a solid inch or more of ice on your entire vehicle. You may have to stop while your driving to scrape ice off. Thankfully a plastic scraper will not scratch your glass. Even if you let it run for a long time, you'll still have a giant ice wall on the windows. Farther north it's much better, farther south it's much better. PA is in the middle of the icing zone.

That's an udder mystery to me.

 

[Terp]

That was on Storm Mountain Road between Loveland and Estes Park in Colorado. One difficult stretch but mostly moderate to easy trail. The section where the picture was taken looked way worse going up but definitely was way more sketch going down.

 

[Russ103]

I so want to go out west someday on a road trip, just don't want to put the miles on the Raptor.

That’s like saying,

“I so want to bang my hot girlfriend, but I want to keep her tight for the next guy”

 

[Todd Turbo S]

@Todd Turbo S - sure.

I actually grabbed my inspiration from this thread: https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/who-has-the-best-aux-light-install.75137/page-3

My supplies were as follows (I realize I could have gone with much higher quality components if I really wanted to , but these will suffice for my needs)

Main Harness: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H3N21MD/?tag=fordraptorforum-20
- This a 12 pin harness. Each of your factory up-fitter wires lands to a wire on the harness (I used the connectors linked below). I then consolidated the remaining 6 wires into 2 grounds. These got extended to reach an existing ground nut on the frame near the battery box. I used a simple pin out where the top row goes to aux wires and the bottom row are my grounds.

Pigtails: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FT8S9Z3/?tag=fordraptorforum-20
- On the other "side" of the 12 pin harness, I used the connectors below to make dedicated pigtails for each of the aux switches. I prefer running a solid ground for my lights as opposed to the nearest bolt you can find.

HeatShrink/Solder butt connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RMRCC3/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

When I wired my S2 reverse kit, I dragged 2 additional 14x2 conductor cabling thru the frame to future proof myself. I skipped the reverse light tap and currently have them on Aux3. I used to some automotive wiring harness tape and my fancy heat-shrink labeler to really keep it clean. I'll try to get some better pictures of it installed on the truck.

Thank you. Much appreciated

 

[EastEndAngler]

I have been running threw my mind a little bit on how I want to do this. Why not use the dedicated black ground wire from the underhood bundle? I like your idea of repinned connectors. I would and could do that with the harness but soldering imo could be cleaner and I am assuming two grounds one with 3 wires each. I have done pretty well wiring harnesses up.

I'm not sure i know what "dedicated black ground wire" is. I actually forgot, that I extended the ground from the vehicle side of the 12pin harness and landed it to a battery post.

The connectors I linked to are actually heat shrink and solder all in one. You'll definitely need a heat gun with a shield and create a proper splice before applying the connector. I'm in the AV/IT world so soldering is second nature to me, just didn't doing multiple steps (solder and then heat shrink). If I had 6 accessories to use, I would have done a better job of lacing and spacing my pigtails.

 

[NASSTY]

I'm not sure i know what "dedicated black ground wire" is. I actually forgot, that I extended the ground from the vehicle side of the 12pin harness and landed it to a battery post.

The connectors I linked to are actually heat shrink and solder all in one. You'll definitely need a heat gun with a shield and create a proper splice before applying the connector. I'm in the AV/IT world so soldering is second nature to me, just didn't doing multiple steps (solder and then heat shrink). If I had 6 accessories to use, I would have done a better job of lacing and spacing my pigtails.

I didn't see any dedicated ground wire either, so I ran my own.