What did u do to your raptor today?

[BenBB]

Replacing bed bolts in preparation for my bypass rack. And I have US Cargo Control L tracks in the bed so no need for the mopar rings.

Even better!

 

[HORN HIGH ACES]

Replacing bed bolts in preparation for my bypass rack. And I have US Cargo Control L tracks in the bed so no need for the mopar rings.

What are the specs of the bolts you purchased to replace the bed bolts?

 

[Jakenbake]

What are the specs of the bolts you purchased to replace the bed bolts?

I purchased a few actually, going to see what fits the best and if possible what will simplify the hardware for my setup. The ones I have received so far are 1/2” diameter at 4.25” and 4.5” lengths grade 8 yellow zinc. I went between class 10.9 and grade 8 and went with grade 8 because I could get yellow zinc grade 8 Nylocks and USA.

I have a few other lengths and 9/16” diameter showing up soon. Going to do a little test fitting once they all get here and will report back.

I should note that I have not yet been able to find the grade of the oem bolts to compare to.

 

[Mike175]

@Jakenbake
Have you tried the 1/2" yet? I seem to believe that the OEM are metric

 

[Jakenbake]

@Jakenbake
Have you tried the 1/2" yet? I seem to believe that the OEM are metric

I have not tried them yet, but do not expect any issues. The OEM are metric and a tapered bolt. The top (largest diameter) is about an M14 (14mm so 0.551in.) the majority of the bolt is M12 (12mm so 0.472in.) the slight increase in diameter is roughly offset by the decrease is yield/ultimate strength of the class 10.9 vs the grade 8. So an M12 at class 10.9 would be about the same as a grade 8 1/2”. Having said that I can’t necessarily tell you how much additional strength they provide over the factory bolts until I figure out what grade they are.

Do you have any specific concerns?

 

[Mike175]

My only concern was that they wouldn't thread in. You seem to have that well under control though. At one point I had sourced longer bolts and stayed with metric. I thought Grade 8 had slightly higher tensile strength than the 10.9. Either way negligible I'm sure. Sounds like you should be good to go.

 

[Jakenbake]

My only concern was that they wouldn't thread in. You seem to have that well under control though. At one point I had sourced longer bolts and stayed with metric. I thought Grade 8 had slightly higher tensile strength than the 10.9. Either way negligible I'm sure. Sounds like you should be good to go.

Ahh, gotcha. I am using nylon lock nuts on all of the accessible ones and the two that go into the frame I am using new captured nuts. I am going use a tap and tap the nuts to 1/2-13. I will use anti-seize to make sure I don’t have to cut these out like the last ones.

When I looked grade 8 was 150,000psi and class 10.9 was 1040 mPa so roughly 150,800psi. But as you said, basically the same and almost certainly a bit higher than OEM (would like to know for sure but won’t lose any sleep over it lol). Also I am still deciding what to torque them at, probably will just use OEM torques for now.

 

[BlueOvalF22]

I have not tried them yet, but do not expect any issues. The OEM are metric and a tapered bolt. The top (largest diameter) is about an M14 (14mm so 0.551in.) the majority of the bolt is M12 (12mm so 0.472in.) the slight increase in diameter is roughly offset by the decrease is yield/ultimate strength of the class 10.9 vs the grade 8. So an M12 at class 10.9 would be about the same as a grade 8 1/2”. Having said that I can’t necessarily tell you how much additional strength they provide over the factory bolts until I figure out what grade they are.

Do you have any specific concerns?

I'll need to ream but will run 15mm class 12.9 with 12 point heads for bypass rack bolts. Then just stock bolts where it's just a bed bolt

Also going to splined head and spine nut standard bolts for bypass shock bolts. But it's for theft deterrence here.

 

[Jakenbake]

I'll need to ream but will run 15mm class 12.9 with 12 point heads for bypass rack bolts. Then just stock bolts where it's just a bed bolt

Also going to splined head and spine nut standard bolts for bypass shock bolts. But it's for theft deterrence here.

Will the rack you are going run attach the middle bed bolts? I was going to upsize the hardware at the front two rows of bed bolts but had some concerns with the wall thickness of the captured nut with a larger diameter bolt.

Good idea on the shock bolts. With the cost and wait time for them you don’t want someone to need them more than you do!

 

[BlueOvalF22]

Will the rack you are going run attach the middle bed bolts? I was going to upsize the hardware at the front two rows of bed bolts but had some concerns with the wall thickness of the captured nut with a larger diameter bolt.

Good idea on the shock bolts. With the cost and wait time for them you don’t want someone to need them more than you do!

I think I saw that, also a welder in my garage and some metal plate I had in the corner.. So the frame side of the front bed bolts will be gusseted.