Welds

[skyscraper]

They took a grinder to the welds, probably because they weren't pretty.

---------- Post added at 07:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:24 PM ----------

I think I would have it redone. Seems like they did not prep it well, looks like they did a root pass and used grinder. The root pass should have been covered with a Cap. A weld with less penetration but more coverage. This would be a smooth run all the way around.

You don't root unless it's two joints of pipe. Just a simple pass with a mig welder is what they did, which will suffice. But they aren't getting any awards for beauty, that's for sure.

 

[970Co]

They took a grinder to the welds, probably because they weren't pretty.

---------- Post added at 07:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:24 PM ----------




You don't root unless it's two joints of pipe. Just a simple pass with a mig welder is what they did, which will suffice. But they aren't getting any awards for beauty, that's for sure.

I'm not a welder. But I do know they did use a stick on parts of my roll cage. They used 2 rods and when I asked, they said one gives penetration and the other is a cap. I recall them saying root and cap.

 

[t_j]

These look like bad mig welds. As for the stacks of dimes that only applies to tig welds, mig welds should be perfectly smooth when done correctly. I would be taking that back and having them fix it up. That is a fairly simple weld to get right.

 

[Deleted member 12951]

Is it about looks or the strength of the weld to hold? I did call him and asked why the welds were grinded down and he said he knocked them down to give a better surface for the line-x. I asked about the integrity of the weld by doing that and he just said it will hold. I would agree that he did it probably to smooth out the sloppy work.

Not much into taking it back because if he can't lay a nice weld then he should of done it in the first place so not much confidence to do it again any differently. Would rather take it elsewhere but I struggled to find anyone to do this job.

So is it worth messing with as the looks don't bother me as much but more so on the strength to hold, if this is the issue. Do I go to line-x and grab it and the phone book looking for a welder again?

 

[RLTW]

It's not so much that looks are as important as they speak about the skill of the welder. Bad welds can be incredibly strong, but if he can't weld then aesthetically does he really know the proper technique to use for the situation.

 

[Az Scooter]

Is it about looks or the strength of the weld to hold? I did call him and asked why the welds were grinded down and he said he knocked them down to give a better surface for the line-x. I asked about the integrity of the weld by doing that and he just said it will hold. I would agree that he did it probably to smooth out the sloppy work.

Not much into taking it back because if he can't lay a nice weld then he should of done it in the first place so not much confidence to do it again any differently. Would rather take it elsewhere but I struggled to find anyone to do this job.

So is it worth messing with as the looks don't bother me as much but more so on the strength to hold, if this is the issue. Do I go to line-x and grab it and the phone book looking for a welder again?

I disagree, a proper mig weld should look like a stack of dimes, as well. At least from everything I was ever taught or seen.

 

[BAJASVT]

Strength is more important than appearance, but strength and appearance go hand in hand. A good looking weld and a strong weld both come from proper uniformity in heat, penetration, and speed. Also, you don't grind a good weld... not only because you should be proud of how it looks, but also because many regulations both in racing (cages) and pipe fitting do not allow a weld to be ground down so it can be properly inspected.

Bottom line: It looks like shit. If the bottom plate that was replaced is thicker, there's a chance that the weld will fail. If the plate is the same thickness as the original, it will probably bend like it did the first time and the weld may be ok... may.

I'd get in there with a cut-off wheel and grind out the entire weld and have it redone by someone who knows what they're doing (that qualifier eliminates most exhaust shops). If it was mine, I'd use a thicker bottom plate, bore a hole in it just barely larger than the diameter of the tube and weld it from both sides, then machine/grind the bottom that sits on top of the truck's bed rail flush/flat.

---------- Post added at 12:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:33 PM ----------

Happy thanksgiving!

 

[Deleted member 12951]

Well that is why I took pics and posted because to me it did seem somewhat amateur but I am not educated on welding techniques nor could hold a conversation with him in any regard. Yes I would like to make it right and now looking back, I paid way too much to have this done. A couple problems that I am concerned about.

1. The top of the lightbar hangs over the cab. It was somewhat close and did get hit it as there is 3 small dents up there from when it first failed. When this guy cut it off, we lost height. My thought with the thicker plate was we make up the loss of height. If we cut again and drill out so it can be welded from both sides then I am going to lose a considerable amount of height and probably be too close to the top of cab. This is my biggest concern, how to fix situation?

2. Just the ability to find someone GOOD that will do this so I can get it all done within time to get ready for Snoball.

3. It does not fit flat on the bed rails, it did not fit flat even in the beginning. Now it fits less flat because it is overlapping the tonneau cover rails. Good size gap really. I am thinking of taping off the corners and fill the void with some type of hardened type epoxy to make a custom platform so it has a flat surface. Ideas?

 

[BAJASVT]

Issue #1

To gain some height back, I'd get a few inch long piece of large diameter tube with the same ID as the original tube OD. Use the new larger tube to sleeve over the old; weld the top of the sleeve to the old tube and the bottom of the sleeve to the bed rail plate. The difference in tube diameter at the junction will look nice and blend in nicely if welded good... this is my favorite type of weld to TIG because you can control the arc very easily and you really don't even need filler rod, you can just melt down the larger diameter tube to weld it into/onto the smaller. I'd still use my previously mentioned method to weld the tube to the flat plate, but if the weld is done properly, it can just be butt/face welded and be plenty strong for what this part is intended to do... it is after all just bolted to the top of sheetmetal.

 

[SilentShooter]

I like the sleeve idea and cutting into the plate and welding from both sides. I would do this on both sides this way they look identical.