Uh crap. Wheel hub blew out (Integrated Wheel End, IWE)

[BigJ]

Did you try your vacuum line test on both sides?

No. Good point. I have the right line, yes? And should I start in 2wd, or 4wd, or does it not matter?

 

[pirate air]

If you jack it up, with the engine off/no vacuum going to the hub, the hub should be locked spinning the cb axle when you spin the wheel. With the engine running/with vacuum to the hub, the hub should unlock allowing the tire to spin without spinning the cv shaft. If you can get all four wheels jacked up and safely crawl under it, try locating the noise from the bottom with the truck in two wheel drive running in drive.

---------- Post added at 01:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:42 PM ----------

No. Good point. I have the right line, yes? And should I start in 2wd, or 4wd, or does it not matter?

Yeah right line. Shouldn't matter what setting you start in. Defualt is hubs locked with no vacuum. They do this so you have 4x4 if you loose a line or vacuum. Fords hubs are kinda junk to begin with though so if its hub related it doesn't surprise me.

 

[hungerforraptor]

Its your 4X4 trying to engage. There is a problem with the vacuum switch.

I had and '08 F-150 and it made the same noise. The dealer replace the vacuum switch for the 4X4 and it stopped. It was covered under warranty. It took them about 2 hours to complete the work. IT will cause damage if you continue to drive it like that.

My truck was out of the bumper to bumper coverage but not the power train warranty. So yours should be covered under the power train warranty.

 

[jdowens1]

If you jack it up, with the engine off/no vacuum going to the hub, the hub should be locked spinning the cb axle when you spin the wheel. With the engine running/with vacuum to the hub, the hub should unlock allowing the tire to spin without spinning the cv shaft. If you can get all four wheels jacked up and safely crawl under it, try locating the noise from the bottom with the truck in two wheel drive running in drive.

---------- Post added at 01:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:42 PM ----------



Yeah right line. Shouldn't matter what setting you start in. Defualt is hubs locked with no vacuum. They do this so you have 4x4 if you loose a line or vacuum. Fords hubs are kinda junk to begin with though so if its hub related it doesn't surprise me.

Even if bigj can get up front wheels would, make it easier.to at least isolate the side if passenger side doesn'eleminate i'll have to relisten

---------- Post added at 02:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:59 PM ----------

No. Good point. I have the right line, yes? And should I start in 2wd, or 4wd, or does it not matter?

Just another idea if you raise the front with engine running an figure out which side you can use vacuum pump to apply vacuum to each side which could tell you if your issue is in the hub or not

 

[BigJ]

Ok... truck is up and we've confirmed that yes, with the engine off the hub is locked. Both sides.

With the engine on and in 2wd, the passenger side freewheels, and the driver side stays locked. We're on to something here!

We compared the vacuum in 2wd on both sides and the 'finger' test tells us we have the same vacuum on both sides.

So we're thinking the hub, right? What now?

 

[pirate air]

I'd use a gauge just to double check your vacuum source to make sure its good. Better safe than sorry but it does sound like the actuator/intergrated wheel end has gone bad and isn't engaging the hub all the way. It may have damaged the hub enough to need a hub and actuator.

 

[BigJ]

Ok I don't have a gague unfortunately, but it feels so similar that I'm willing to bet the hub is gonzo, especially given the lead up to this (the occasional rattling before, followed by zero noise after 4wd engaged, followed by full on grind after trying to go back into 2wd).

Are there upgraded versions of these parts that might make better replacements? I don't want this happening again...

 

[debate]

It may have damaged the hub enough to need a hub and actuator.

Would the ends of the half-shaft ( splines? ) be affected, also?

 

[pirate air]

Is far as I know there are no upgrades on the market but honestly I've never really looked for any. The actuator and hub will be seperate components. Your truck may only need the actuator. The hub might still be ok but that grinding/clicking noise is the teeth rounding away which affects how it engages.

---------- Post added at 02:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:35 PM ----------

Would the ends of the half-shaft ( splines? ) be affected, also?

No they should be fine. Luckily the hubs good at destroying only itself lol.

 

[jdowens1]

Would the ends of the half-shaft ( splines? ) be affected, also?

If driven long enough with the noise it could do damage to the splines so Yes. It still being under warranty usually only the hub would be replaced unless extensive damge to the axle is doen, they are pretty stout gears on the axle they can take a beating. the hub vacuum seal runs around 130 dollars. That is what I am thinking is the issue you have the the rubber broke breaking the seal. If you tear the axle down like doing your perch adjustment remove the 13mm nut on the axle and pull it out of the wheels hub. Then there are three 8mm bolts that hold the vacuum part on to the wheel knuckle when you take off those three bolts you can inspect it for damage more then likely they seal will be all scrunched up.

---------- Post added at 02:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:41 PM ----------

Is far as I know there are no upgrades on the market but honestly I've never really looked for any. The actuator and hub will be seperate components. Your truck may only need the actuator. The hub might still be ok but that grinding/clicking noise is the teeth rounding away which affects how it engages.

---------- Post added at 02:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:35 PM ----------



No they should be fine. Luckily the hubs good at destroying only itself lol.

not fair you beat me to the answer.!