Transmission updates - aftermarket pan and dipstick?

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bwep

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Well, here’s my story….

I replaced my lead frame six years ago. During that procedure, I believe I did something to make the thermostat un functionable.

My trans temperatures run usually in the 160s. Sometimes it goes as high as the 170s during 90° temps and can run in the 140s during short trips in the winter when temperatures are in the teens.

After six years and 34,000 miles, there’s been no noticeable difference in the performance of the transmission. Transmission has a total of 86,000 miles on it at this time.

I live in the north east and can see temperatures in the high 90s and as low as -10 during winter.
Probably has cost me a little in Performance/efficiency, no worries there for me.
 

Old-Raptor-guy

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I don’t think I said it would be damaged by running cooler than optimum for the fluid functionality, but it will indeed cost power when running cooler than ~185-190F. Same as with your engine oil. The engine will make more power with the oil running ~200-220F than it will at 180F. It’s simple physics (fluid dynamics) proven countless times on the dyno and on the race track. For street engine/trans the average idiot will never know the difference and do stupid sh*t because of the idiots who post stupid sh*t on forums who have no actual proven background/experience. Yeah, this has become too redundant so…,
To anyone reading this he is 100% correct the thinner (which comes from heat) the fluids become (doesn't matter if is oil, coolant, transmission fluid or gear oil) the more HP you will get to the ground.

We are talking 5-7 hp.

The engine temp should definitely approach if not exceed slightly 200 degrees.

Transmission for longer life, not for an extra 3 hp should be kept closer to 170.

My goal is max longevity not max HPtrans_life_expectancy.jpg
 

pat247

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My thoughts on this subject, more capacity is helpful if you tow heavy or subject the truck to Baha conditions otherwise unnessary. In the hotter regions the F250 cooler helps keep the temps cooler longer. Modern fluids are engineered to reach optimum viscosity at around 185 degrees hense the reason for the thermo controled valve valve in the trans. Applying to much power to a cold trans is asking for failure.
 
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Cody Templeton

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My thoughts on this subject, more capacity is helpful if you tow heavy or subject the truck to Baha conditions otherwise unnessary. In the hotter regions the F250 cooler helps keep the temps cooler longer. Modern fluids are engineered to reach optimum viscosity at around 185 degrees hense the reason for the thermo controled valve valve in the trans. Applying to much power to a cold trans is asking for failure.

Sure, but if the thermostat is keeping it above 200 degrees, or higher, what's the benefit of having it? The fluid is still going to warm up to temperature, especially if it's running through the radiator cooler.
 

mwaite09

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Oh.... I have been wrong a lot in my life. Probably not going to change it back though.LOL.. 4 DEG isn't a lot. I might get it back with a better cooler. I think if I were to do it agin I would go with the other pan out there. @mwaite09 went with. Was more fluid But his trans temp didn't change. ( I don't remember the brand) it wasn't 7 more quarts.....I think it was 4 more over stock. possible he will chime in tell us the brand.
I went with the mag-hytec 6R80. Although I'm not as consistent as gumby with monitoring my trans temp i did see a marked improvement, especially when towing my boat up a 10 mile incline, it only went up a few degrees compared to the stock pan.
 
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doktor

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what is your set up on the F-150's with bypass/no thermostat?
I'm not sure I understand the question. I'm running the 3.5 Qt. increase B&M pan and the Superior Solutions Thermal bypass. From my reading, you should not just yank out the factory Thermostat. That would bypass the cooler completely.
This is the bypass I'm using. It's easy to install but, it is a good idea to replace a few parts while you're in there. Change the Wiring connector and the VB to the case connector. Put in a new filter while you're in there.

I got both of these on Amazon.

Genuine Ford 6L2Z-7G276-AA Connector​

Ford AL3Z-7F401-A - Seal​


 
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Cody Templeton

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Getting back into this as the truck is going to be heading in for the lead frame recall shortly, and just want to have the parts on hand in anticipation that something needs done with dropping the pan potentially.

Planning on running the cooler flow control valve from Super Transmission here:


Also, the B&M transmission pan here:


And the knock off B&M flexible dipstick/tube here:


The cooler flow control valve would allow better fluid flow through the cooler to help lower the operating temperature, as well as allowing the fluid to be checked much quicker instead of having to wait until the transmission is fully warmed up and the OEM thermostat finally opens. After researching into all of the transmission pans available for the 6R80, the B&M one seemed to be the choice since it would clear the skid plate and looks to be very quality. I originally was looking at the aFe pan, but due to the depth of it would no longer clear the skid plate and hang low. Lastly, the knock-off B&M flexible dipstick/tube would be great instead of having to burn my hand on the exhaust trying to check the fluid level. Also, if you look at it, it looks the exact same as the B&M one, but is like 1/5th of the price.

Any other recommendations?
 
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