Torsen front axle problems ! anyone else ???

[iSurvive]

Transfer case replaced twice (one was delivered defective), all wiring tested, solenoid inspected, vacuum lines checked, IWE's replaced, and now they're ordering a new set of IWE's.

THE PROBLEM: The Ford master tech now believes the synchronizer in the transfer case which spins the front driveshaft up to speed, is not doing its job. The driveshaft is not spinning up to speed, so the wheels are locking and then trying to lock the driveshaft. Since this is happening in reverse order, the whole process is screwed.

They say this is the first time they've encountered the problem, so they are trying to diagnose the fix as they go. Not very comforting!!

 

[Steele16]

Truck has been acting up for quite a while, finally completely broke the driver side CV Saturday. Guess we'll find out if that solves it

 

[rasco]

I never use my 4 hi or low.
It's dead weight to me and I'm considering removing the driveline and front diff.

 

[Yukon Joe]

I never use my 4 hi or low.
It's dead weight to me and I'm considering removing the driveline and front diff.

You might be better off...

Yukon Joe
Buffalo Run Support Raptor
http://www.fordraptorforum.com/showthread.php?p=364119

 

[Netix]

http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html
Im getting some custom axles done up, spoke to this guy a few times now. Getting a longer shaft as well.
As for torsens ect ect...
Id rather find dana axles at a junk yard and customize them to my lenghth and stick a huge ring and pinion and any locker you want.
My fab guy saw a dana 80 at a junkyard for 250.
I know i know putting scrap yard parts on the raptpr but hell... I bet with some front dana 60 and rear 80 with a mechanical tranfer case. I could finally be a happy raptor owner and not hate on my truck every time i snap something climbing a bouler

 

[Bar]

My 2011 has been at the dealer for 32 days now. They have tried everything. Today, they are swapping out the front. My loud pop/crack is only in 4High while turning at slow speeds even on snow. It isn't the typical binding...it is popping - and loud. Ford Tech came out and did a bunch of listening. They said they checked the IWE and all was fine. 32 f'ing days.

 

[ITSALLGOOD]

Ditto !

My 2011 has been at the dealer for 32 days now. They have tried everything. Today, they are swapping out the front. My loud pop/crack is only in 4High while turning at slow speeds even on snow. It isn't the typical binding...it is popping - and loud. Ford Tech came out and did a bunch of listening. They said they checked the IWE and all was fine. 32 f'ing days.

X2 , Mine pops like crazy under a load in 4x4 high as well . Keep us posted on a fix .

 

[iSurvive]

My 2011 has been at the dealer for 32 days now. They have tried everything. Today, they are swapping out the front. My loud pop/crack is only in 4High while turning at slow speeds even on snow. It isn't the typical binding...it is popping - and loud. Ford Tech came out and did a bunch of listening. They said they checked the IWE and all was fine. 32 f'ing days.

For those who did not see my post on a different thread:

MY RAPTOR IS FIXED!!!!



All those replaced parts and it was a bad wire to the solenoid. 21 days and thousands of dollars Ford spent for nothing! The rental car alone was $2,000.

I gave them four options that could possibly be wrong (after reading a hundred posts). The IWE's, the vacuum lines, the transfer case, or the wiring to the solenoid.


BAR - does it make noise while turning at any radius, or just very sharp turns?

I've had three Ford Expeditions with 4wd and had no problems turning, but my Raptor will not make tight turns in 4wd. I have to switch to 2wd to pull into a parking spot or my garage. Is this normal?

 

[Steele16]

We need more info!! Which wire?

 

[iSurvive]

We need more info!! Which wire?

It's the wire that leads from the solenoid to the vacuum system. I think it's the IWE solenoid (solenoid vacuum valve). Ford once thought it was the wiring, but didn't know which wire. Then they gave up on that idea. After further failed attempts and more new parts, they figured something wasn't right with the command to activate 4wd. They overlaid a wiring harness with a new wiring harness and... tada, everything was fixed. So they replaced the harness.

Someone posted this on another FRF thread:

The vacuum from IWE module holds the diapham against return spring until the driver switches to 4wd. At which point the IWE solenoid changes state and the vacuum is removed. The spring in the IWE presses the diaphram the opposite direction while engaging the cv shafts to the hubs. This movement pulls unfiltered air and everything else into the IWE.. Which in time degrades the IWE diaphram and causes grinding and eventually loss of 4wd.. Once the diaphram is compromised, the crap travels up the vacuum line and trashes the IWE solenoid..