Torsen front axle problems ! anyone else ???

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iSurvive

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I have some data that might be helpful, might not. I've always noticed the issue with the 4WD under load/stress. My son's friend's house is on a steep hill, with an unpaved driveway. I've been able to duplicate the sound every time I pick him up from his friends (with snow on the driveway). The first portion is 5-6 degrees of incline (no issue), once I get to 8 degrees it starts to complain, but at 10-11 degrees the sledge hammer popping noise kicks right in.

I am going to video tape the truck going up the hill - from inside and outside the cab. I'll use the video at the dealer on 1/15 for my third appt for the same issue. If not, I'll gladly drive him the 12 minutes to the house with the steep driveway. They've already fixed the IWEs, vacuum system, and transfer case twice in the last two years.
 

Squatting Dog

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The locking teeth are at the beginning stages of being rounded and flimsy spring can not hold the ring in place. Once they get severely worn it will sledgehammer on a flat surface.

-Greg (aka Squatting Dog)
 

HAYNES OFFROAD

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Greg, what about a stronger spring? Obviously the vacuum system would have to be greater to disengage, but if it keeps a more solid engagement the better right?

Like my question for the remote start work around on this problem, I know its a smaller part of a bigger problem.
 

Squatting Dog

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The issue with stronger spring is in order to install it you have to destroy the rubber diaphragm.. The glue they use is damn good..
Second I believe the max manifold vacuum at closed throttle is 18-22 inches of mercury at sea level. We are right at the limit as far as vacuum.. So we would need a secondary vacuum system in order to overcome the larger spring.
Netix has been running a vacuum pump to disengage his hubs and is reporting good results.
It might be a multifaceted approach..

1) increase spring pressure
2) increasing vacuum
3) stronger locking ring with beveled teeth to help with engagement.

Issues:
Opening and resealing IWE to install stiffer spring.

I will figure this out or make enough fuss that someone with more tools in there shop picks up my work.

-Greg (aka Squatting Dog)
 

ToucanLife

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Some food for thought boys;

I unhooked my front swaybar - haven't had any clunking or engagement problems since even under heavy use - coincidence or is the sway bar causing some adding to the issue?
 

Squatting Dog

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Some food for thought boys;

I unhooked my front swaybar - haven't had any clunking or engagement problems since even under heavy use - coincidence or is the sway bar causing some adding to the issue?

I have had my swaybar off since about 5000 miles, now at 50,000 miles. Still eat through IWE and CV boots like nobody's business. The only thing I can think why the swaybar changes the clunking is it the lower a arm is not connected to the frame by the swaybar the clunk is not transmitted to the cab.

-Greg (aka Squatting Dog)
 

Bigg50

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I may be wrong here, but it's my understanding these problems didn't really show up until Ford put in the torsion diff. Is this correct? If so, would swapping the IWE for the old setup work to mitigate this?

I may have been lucky, but after 65,000 miles and beating the crap out of my 05 f150 with 37's; I never had an issue. From other posts I understand it's still a problem but I'm curious if the torsion only makes it worse.
 

Squatting Dog

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Torsen makes it worse.. Pre-torsen F150 would get about 50k-75k before needing replacement (unless vacuum line issue or IWE solenoid moisture problem). In 2012 Raptor owners that used 4wd would get approx 5k-7500 miles before the locking ring would be worn down.
Ford did test an upgraded IWE but it caused other issues (never received a straight answer on what the "other issues") , it was not developed or considered.
The torsen is amazing when the IWE stays together, the Raptor with sport mode engaged will literally crawl out of almost anything. The traction control kicks in and slows spinning wheel to transfer the torque to other wheel.

-Greg (aka Squatting Dog)
 

Bigg50

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Interesting. Sounds like I'm due for a bad IWE since I'm closing in on 8,000 miles. Although, I don't use 4x4 much these days since most most of my offroading is now in the desert.

Would it be a simple swap to put the setup from an 11? I already want to because I'd like to be at top perch.
 

Squatting Dog

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Interesting. Sounds like I'm due for a bad IWE since I'm closing in on 8,000 miles. Although, I don't use 4x4 much these days since most most of my offroading is now in the desert.

Would it be a simple swap to put the setup from an 11? I already want to because I'd like to be at top perch.

Wouldn't need an 11 whole front axle, just the center section guts. There has only been two 2010-11 that I know of that have had IWE problems (BigJ and WSI). No issues with being on top perch with 2010-11 that I am aware.

-Greg (aka Squatting Dog)
 
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