Top perch/methods 2013. PICS!

[BRAPPPP]

Raked means nose high

---------- Post added at 12:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:12 PM ----------

Currently, if you are running stock Fox shocks at top perch and stock upper control arm. You can upgrade to RCV axles and it will solve the issue.

BUT if you have if have upgraded shocks or upper control arms that allows more droop. Then you CAN NOT run RCV axles because they WILL bind at full droop at inner CV.. RCV is aware of this issue and they are looking into it.


-Greg

Who makes those rcv axles. I'm keeping stock shocks and upper control arms

 

[Squatting Dog]

RCV makes them, and several FRF vendors sells them.

-Greg

 

[DirtNasty]

Damn good to know about the RCV's, i am sure those guys will have a new version out soon that will fix that.

 

[Raptor911]

Warning! It's expensive:

Who makes those rcv axles. I'm keeping stock shocks and upper control arms

 

[Netix]

If you go straight through them yes...
I got a quote from a rcv dealer in BC.... They asked 2000$ plus taxes.. that's 500 off msrp basically but just wait for the funniest thing..

it's 380$ to ship it from BC to Ontario. Jokes


The only real way of replacing cv's if you beat the shit out of your truck or just dont care.... 118$... Oem refurbished cv shafts...
for 118$ you can't go wrong... i ordered 2 , one came with a ripped boot, i called them back and sent them a pic told them it's fine im gonna run it like that and they sent my money back.
They have 1 year warranty. ect. it came out to 180 each but i am in canada and UPS ****** me over, for yall americans its free shipping anywheere in in america and its cheap.... so keep on breaking em

 

[Squatting Dog]

If you go straight through them yes...
I got a quote from a rcv dealer in BC.... They asked 2000$ plus taxes.. that's 500 off msrp basically but just wait for the funniest thing..

it's 380$ to ship it from BC to Ontario. Jokes


The only real way of replacing cv's if you beat the shit out of your truck or just dont care.... 118$... Oem refurbished cv shafts...
for 118$ you can't go wrong... i ordered 2 , one came with a ripped boot, i called them back and sent them a pic told them it's fine im gonna run it like that and they sent my money back.
They have 1 year warranty. ect. it came out to 180 each but i am in canada and UPS ****** me over, for yall americans its free shipping anywheere in in america and its cheap.... so keep on breaking em

Once you swap them the first time, it gets easier. Lol

-Greg

 

[Netix]

oh ya it's easy to get them swapped out. if you got a spare cv axle all you need is a few tools and a jack and it can even be fixed on the trail.
but if you know your going to be snapping them often, or you got $$ by all means go RCV it's the best...

 

[Reptar]

anybody want to write up a how-to on swapping them?

 

[Squatting Dog]

Remove tire

Remove brake caliper and hang to not screw up brake lines

Remove small dust cover on end of axle

Remove small (11 mm nut, i think) off end of axle

Unbolt upper or lower control arm.. I think lower is easier than upper but either will work.

Pull out on wheel assembly to get outer end of cv out of IWE.. On mine I had to tap it out with a hammer..

Once outer is free, grasp on axle and give a couple good quick yanks. (Just be careful if you are trying to save it for a spare, you can yank the joint apart.) And the axle will pull out, and you will be greeted with smelly gear lube.. Make sure copper c clip is still on there, otherwise you'll have to go fishing or open diff to get it out.. Not likely, but it could happen..

Replace new cv axle into diff. Line up splines and it will go about 1/4 to 1/2 way in.. You have to muscle it in to get past the c clip.. Pulling it back while still aligned in splice and quickly forcing it into place (hard to describe, just can't be gentle with it).

Put everything back together and torque to specs (pirate air has a sheet of torque specs)

A quick overview of cv axle removal and replacement..

Replacing IWE is basically the same except you do not pull the inner cv joint..


-Greg

 

[ISFast]

Remove tire

Remove brake caliper and hang to not screw up brake lines

Remove small dust cover on end of axle

Remove small (11 mm nut, i think) off end of axle

Unbolt upper or lower control arm.. I think lower is easier than upper but either will work.

Pull out on wheel assembly to get outer end of cv out of IWE.. On mine I had to tap it out with a hammer..

Once outer is free, grasp on axle and give a couple good quick yanks. (Just be careful if you are trying to save it for a spare, you can yank the joint apart.) And the axle will pull out, and you will be greeted with smelly gear lube.. Make sure copper c clip is still on there, otherwise you'll have to go fishing or open diff to get it out.. Not likely, but it could happen..

Replace new cv axle into diff. Line up splines and it will go about 1/4 to 1/2 way in.. You have to muscle it in to get past the c clip.. Pulling it back while still aligned in splice and quickly forcing it into place (hard to describe, just can't be gentle with it).

Put everything back together and torque to specs (pirate air has a sheet of torque specs)

A quick overview of cv axle removal and replacement..

Replacing IWE is basically the same except you do not pull the inner cv joint..


-Greg

So it is like a Toyota in that the CV is only held in by a "snap ring" that is released by pressure in or out?