GEN 2 Throttle Response Issue - Power Cutting Out

[WraptorBoy]

Is it only when cold as you had mentioned in your previous post, or is it able to be duplicated all the time? I've never ran mine hard before it was warmed up.

It's only on a cold or warm engine. So far never when it's fully hot. I've never run it hard (to the point where I question why I have a 450HP truck lol). I've never even floored it. And I never run it harder before the engine is up to temp. I have never noticed this issue at temp.

When I get to work (about a 20 minute city street drive) the engine and trans aren't as hot as they can be but mostly warmed up according to the gauges.

I can repeat this issue when I go to lunch from work and when I leave work. So, the engine isn't cold but more like warm at these times.

When I go to lunch, the truck has been sitting for about 4 hours. The gauges (oil/trans temp) read somewhere in the middle of 100 and 150. So not cold and not hot. I start and drive about 100 feet to a stop sign. If I give it say, a 1/4 or more (i.e., what I would consider a very normal take off) I will get the "pause". So what I do is kind of throttle it very gently until I feel a slight hesitation, at which point I'm past the 'pause' and can drive normally. I will hit this point in probably a few hundred feet or so after the stop sign then it's good.

When the engine is 'over night' cold the trans will slip pretty much when I go over this local speed bump a few hundred feet from the house. So again, I have learned to throttle very carefully until I feel I'm past that point. Then all is good.

I've been in vehicles where the trans won't shift up, below a certain temp, so if this is that issue (i.e. computer related) then it just needs to be adjusted.

Since a lot of people have been experiencing this for years, it seems unlikely there is a fix for it though.

 

[WraptorBoy]

I wonder if the 10 speed tranny has the safety feature like the six speed,
the six speed has a thermostatic pressure valve that will prevent full hydraulic pressure until the transmission temp reaches 170.
And if you try to go hard on the accelerator the PCM will prevent you from hurting the tranny until operating temps are reached.
You cannot even do a full tranny flush until the tranny is at minimal operating temp which is 170 degrees, on a Gen 1.

In my 46 years of owning vehicles I always let them warm up at idle before pushing hard.
And when circumstances do not permit that, I will drive easy until I feel good solid quick shifts.
Even in the hot summer months I run at least 5 minutes or so, mostly to let the AC cool things down.

You guys have remote start, USE IT!!!!!!

I use remote start when it's cold outside.

Remote start will allow the engine to warm up but not the trans fluid. The latter will occur with driving and shifting.

If this issue is triggered by a trans fluid temp issue, then the threshold at which it's set in the software is way too low. Temps in my area are 40-100 (winter and summer respectively).

It could be an engine temperature threshold as well. Apply the above.

I can repeat the issue pretty consistently so it should be fixable... but why hasn't it? (Austin Powers pinky to lip gesture)

 

[WraptorBoy]

I am tempted to think it might be oil related.

Scheduled to drive from Dallas to Austin tomorrow and of course the truck throws P0365 and the CEL came on. Probably going to have to take the wife’s truck now.

I checked the oil level and am confused. It’s on level ground but only half of the dip stick is showing oil going from the bottom to the indicator lines. Almost like the truck wasn’t level.

Going to schedule the truck to get looked at next week. I think they are going to have to replace the back window as well due to the defroster having several lines not coming on. Hopefully they can figure out the front collision sensor killing the adaptive cruise as well.

It could be in the sense that some part doesn't have the oil needed at startup, causes the "pause/slip", then that part that needs oil finally gets the oil and reaches pressure and all is well for the remainder of the driving session. Yeah, I'd buy that for a dollar!

 

[MTF]

I use remote start when it's cold outside.

Remote start will allow the engine to warm up but not the trans fluid. The latter will occur with driving and shifting.

If this issue is triggered by a trans fluid temp issue, then the threshold at which it's set in the software is way too low. Temps in my area are 40-100 (winter and summer respectively).

It could be an engine temperature threshold as well. Apply the above.

I can repeat the issue pretty consistently so it should be fixable... but why hasn't it? (Austin Powers pinky to lip gesture)

Torque converter is spinning, warming up the fluid, while it may not register on the temp gauge or very little, it's still warming up.
Again, this is not an issue, it's a safety feature.

Why you guys would want to override this safety feature is beyond me.
The clutch packs need to warm up and expand to eliminate slippage.
The springs in the valve body and trans fluid all need to be at operating temp.

 

[WraptorBoy]

Torque converter is spinning, warming up the fluid, while it may not register on the temp gauge or very little, it's still warming up.
Again, this is not an issue, it's a safety feature.

Why you guys would want to override this safety feature is beyond me.
The clutch packs need to warm up and expand to eliminate slippage.
The springs in the valve body and trans fluid all need to be at operating temp.

This issue is not a safety feature, it's a flaw. Further, if the driver is not aware of it, this issue creates a safety hazard because you will be lunged forward or drivers behind you are expecting you to move forward when you don't, for a few seconds.

It's likely a flaw in software programming. In order to NOT have the 'pause', you have to drive the truck in a manner that is definitely not normal. As others have said, if you live in an area where you'd have to be generous with gas then you'd think you're about to stall.

I tolerate this issue because I have chosen to find roads where I can take off slow and easy so as not to exacerbate the issue and/or avoid someone behind me hitting me.

 

[MTF]

I don't know why you keep on thinking it's a flaw.
Why not go to the dealership and have a master mechanic explain it to you.

I have learned to let off the gas a little not all the way, at the right moment to allow the transmission to shift without any harsh or any weird shifting and get right back on the throttle nicely.
Which I had to relearn a couple of times while upgrading my HP several times through the 9 1/2 years to well over 720 HP.

Plus you Gen 2 guys have to deal with turbo lag as well.
Add all these together while warming up it's going be a little more difficult.
I know this is going to sound rude BUT
You should try to work with your truck and drive with some feelings instead of blaming something else for your lack of finesse.

It's only a hand full of you guys complaining, why is that?

 

[WraptorBoy]

I don't know why you keep on thinking it's a flaw.
Why not go to the dealership and have a master mechanic explain it to you.

I have learned to let off the gas a little not all the way, at the right moment to allow the transmission to shift without any harsh or any weird shifting and get right back on the throttle nicely.
Which I had to relearn a couple of times while upgrading my HP several times through the 9 1/2 years to well over 720 HP.

Plus you Gen 2 guys have to deal with turbo lag as well.
Add all these together while warming up it's going be a little more difficult.
I know this is going to sound rude BUT
You should try to work with your truck and drive with some feelings instead of blaming something else for your lack of finesse.

It's only a hand full of you guys complaining, why is that?

umm WTF are you talking about? Are you even reading this post or are you just an angry bird who needs to vent for some reason?

And apparently, in your pathetic world, one can't volley opinions and complain or speak and what not unless you're in a... wait for it... FORUM. OH WAIT, THAT'S WHAT THIS IS. A FORUM TO GET MORE INFORMATION. OH MY GOD!

When you drive ANY vehicle and it suddently fu**ing pauses to the point where your thrown forward: THAT IS A FLAW. If you think it's normal, so be it but don't dismiss other people's concerns because your weird ass logic is different from normal people.

Anyway, I'm done with arguing with you and wasting MY time. Have fun with your next clever comment to "win" this argument.

 

[GCATX]

When you drive ANY vehicle and it suddently fu**ing pauses to the point where your thrown forward: THAT IS A FLAW. If you think it's normal, so be it but don't dismiss other people's concerns because your weird ass logic is different from normal people.

So you are thrown forward? That would suggest that the truck is actively braking, not just pulling power. I'm not sure why your body would be going faster than the rest of the truck. Sounds like you are bracing for acceleration and it is not accelerating as if the truck was at full operating temp.

It is normal. I have gotten used to it and adjusted my driving style accordingly.

 

[MTF]

umm WTF are you talking about? Are you even reading this post or are you just an angry bird who needs to vent for some reason?

And apparently, in your pathetic world, one can't volley opinions and complain or speak and what not unless you're in a... wait for it... FORUM. OH WAIT, THAT'S WHAT THIS IS. A FORUM TO GET MORE INFORMATION. OH MY GOD!

When you drive ANY vehicle and it suddently fu**ing pauses to the point where your thrown forward: THAT IS A FLAW. If you think it's normal, so be it but don't dismiss other people's concerns because your weird ass logic is different from normal people.

Anyway, I'm done with arguing with you and wasting MY time. Have fun with your next clever comment to "win" this argument.

Ok I get it, you just want to be ignorant on this subject.
And I won't stoop down to your keyboard pounding antics.
And I'm not venting you are, I'm trying to inform you a little how the truck works.

I'll give you some more experience information.
Rear swaybar will help with tires breaking loose when shifting lanes aggressively.
Getting in the truck every time and putting the truck in Baja mode and holding traction control till it's off,
it will help a little to decrease sensitivity of the nanny controls.
The anti roll nanny is something that does change in what ever mode your in.

Just doing traction button without Baja mode the nannies are only diminished until 35 mph.

And if that's not good enough pull the ABS fuse and have at it.
That's Tanner Faust's first go to when he wants play.

You can always write a letter to Ford and tell them you want them to override what the Government mandates in safety protocols.
And then try to get insurance with a vehicle that has a sticker on the visor for roll over warning with out the nannies.
But you go on thinking what ever you want, hope you get somewhere with that.

 

[smurfslayer]

I was coming home from the gym this morning and will try to describe what happens.

pre-start and warm up the truck because it’s freakin’ cold out. Truck was only off for about 75 minutes, at operating temp when I got in. Navigate the maze to exit parking lot, get on the main road. I have 2 stop signs in short succession, and am in 4A and have turned off auto-stop. issue 1: stop at first stop sign. advance to 2nd, to turn right, make my complete stop, jump to gas pedal and go. only I don’t go, I sit there for probably 2 tenths, maybe a quarter second, no movement at all. None. Then it takes off issue 2: boost comes on, overwhelms the tires despite being in 4a and ... cut power <-- here, yes, I was kind of loose in the seat because just like the opening dirt / gravel course at Raptor Assault, when it cuts power for losing traction, it’s a non-subtle action, basically chopping the throttle completely until the computer thinks there’s traction. Not thrown forward, but well... This is not some simple wheelspin comparison algorithm, once t/c cuts power, it’s basically binary, so there really isn’t a way for the rear to be spinning or rotating faster than the front. There’s way more going on than simple wheel spin comparison logic.

The initial delay in movement is total; that is, it’s not the turbos spooling, it’s the truck’s computer throwing the middle finger at you in response to you pressing the gas pedal.

I think issue 1 is just poor throttle by wire programming here, and I’ve observed this from day 1. Issue 2 is me playing fast and loose with my traction budget and going into traction ‘overdraft protection’ so to speak. Issue 1 bugs me and I think is not good. issue 2... well, I suppose I could turn off t/c and see if I am able to fare any better.