MagicMtnDan
FRF Addict
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Lift Kits for Independent Suspensions
"The downside to all coil spring suspension lift kits is that they alter the operating angles of the various links (or radius arms) and track bars in the system, changing the designed geometry of the system...
Beyond the basic 2-3 inch lift, you need a corrected system. By “corrected,” we mean one that has new links adjusted for length and possibly modified in shape to correct some of the geometry problems. Offset eye bushings or dropped mounting brackets are also used. Corrected suspension lift kits usually include a corrected track rod because the angularity of the transverse bars is also adversely affected by lift. Sometimes that comes in the form of a longer track bar, with or without changes in its shape, and sometimes drop brackets are used to correct angularity. A good corrected coil spring lift will often deliver near-stock drivability into the 4-6 inch lift range...
Independent suspension lift kits may be the most complex lifts of all, similar in complexity to solid axle coil spring setups. At lower levels of lift height (2-3 inches), many of the newer strut-type setups are quite simply addressed by a spacer lift. From there, the changes of angularity to the control arms, steering rods, and the CV axle angles are the major concerns.
All these potential troubles, and others, are addressed in lifts at or above 3 inches by relocating the upper/lower control arm or replacing it. A steeper angle on the upper or lower arm moves the steering knuckle inboard and increases the angularity on the ball joints, sometimes maxing out their movement. The longer or relocated arms solve those issues. Another common element is a modified knuckle. The point at which the CV axle enters the knuckle may be altered for some lift, but, more importantly, the distance between the ball joints is increased to decrease their angularity. Many times, the steering arm is relocated to lessen the angularity on the tie rods. Some IFS systems relocate the entire suspension and differential at a lower position to obtain lift.
CV joint angularity is always a problem with an IFS lift, but it’s one usually addressed by the suspension lift kit designer. They calculate the maximum angularity of the inner and outer joints and limit suspension travel to prevent binding. The other consideration is the plunge depth of the inner joint, often called a tripod because it has three pivot points. As the suspension travels up or down, the mounted end to end distance of the CV axle changes.
As angularity decreases, that distance grows and vice versa. It’s just like a driveshaft in that way. The “slip yoke” for the CV axle is called plunge and it’s done inside the inner joint, the three legs of the tripod able to move in and out inside tracks. At normal ride height, the plunge depth must be centered or at least positioned so that the joint will neither pull apart on downtravel nor run out of travel on suspension uptravel, causing it to jam and break the diff housing. Plunge depth is usually addressed by a spacer between the inner joint and the drive flange on the differential."
Link: Your Lift Kit How to Guide on Lift Kits for Coilers & Independent Suspensions - Suspension Lift Kit Knowhow Part 3
More info can be found here: Let me google that for you
Lift Kits for Independent Suspensions
"The downside to all coil spring suspension lift kits is that they alter the operating angles of the various links (or radius arms) and track bars in the system, changing the designed geometry of the system...
Beyond the basic 2-3 inch lift, you need a corrected system. By “corrected,” we mean one that has new links adjusted for length and possibly modified in shape to correct some of the geometry problems. Offset eye bushings or dropped mounting brackets are also used. Corrected suspension lift kits usually include a corrected track rod because the angularity of the transverse bars is also adversely affected by lift. Sometimes that comes in the form of a longer track bar, with or without changes in its shape, and sometimes drop brackets are used to correct angularity. A good corrected coil spring lift will often deliver near-stock drivability into the 4-6 inch lift range...
Independent suspension lift kits may be the most complex lifts of all, similar in complexity to solid axle coil spring setups. At lower levels of lift height (2-3 inches), many of the newer strut-type setups are quite simply addressed by a spacer lift. From there, the changes of angularity to the control arms, steering rods, and the CV axle angles are the major concerns.
All these potential troubles, and others, are addressed in lifts at or above 3 inches by relocating the upper/lower control arm or replacing it. A steeper angle on the upper or lower arm moves the steering knuckle inboard and increases the angularity on the ball joints, sometimes maxing out their movement. The longer or relocated arms solve those issues. Another common element is a modified knuckle. The point at which the CV axle enters the knuckle may be altered for some lift, but, more importantly, the distance between the ball joints is increased to decrease their angularity. Many times, the steering arm is relocated to lessen the angularity on the tie rods. Some IFS systems relocate the entire suspension and differential at a lower position to obtain lift.
CV joint angularity is always a problem with an IFS lift, but it’s one usually addressed by the suspension lift kit designer. They calculate the maximum angularity of the inner and outer joints and limit suspension travel to prevent binding. The other consideration is the plunge depth of the inner joint, often called a tripod because it has three pivot points. As the suspension travels up or down, the mounted end to end distance of the CV axle changes.
As angularity decreases, that distance grows and vice versa. It’s just like a driveshaft in that way. The “slip yoke” for the CV axle is called plunge and it’s done inside the inner joint, the three legs of the tripod able to move in and out inside tracks. At normal ride height, the plunge depth must be centered or at least positioned so that the joint will neither pull apart on downtravel nor run out of travel on suspension uptravel, causing it to jam and break the diff housing. Plunge depth is usually addressed by a spacer between the inner joint and the drive flange on the differential."
Link: Your Lift Kit How to Guide on Lift Kits for Coilers & Independent Suspensions - Suspension Lift Kit Knowhow Part 3
More info can be found here: Let me google that for you
