Supercharger or not?

[Andrrw]

I just love my 2013 Hennessey Velociraptor! (700 hp 6.2L w/ 2.3L Supercharger). I would not have it any other way. I have no heating/ cooling issues and the thing is an Angry Beast with an Attitude! It was modified from the get go. This baby does 90 Mph everywhere with ease. The only gotcha is the speeding tickets that come with it. (lol). I have had many turbo cars, but the sound and feel and seat-of-your-pants acceleration of a supercharged V8 is priceless!

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Looks just like mine but mine is black. Awesome truck! My favorite vehicle for sure. Does your have any upgrades to the braking system? I could see that being in line with my next upgrade worh all the extra HP. Any recommendations would be great. I have heard replacing the rubber lines with braided is an upgrade but not sure if that actually true. Also not sure I want to drop $5k on a while new brake system.

 

[MTF]

The installer finally received the correct tune and followed the instructions just as you outlined. Now the only issue is when cruising on the highway and slowly rolling on the throttle it surges sometimes. The installer thinks it may have something to do with the throttle body and the tune. I just emailed Whipple the issue and am waiting on a response (which takes days as they are busy). I’m confident they will get it right eventually. Thanks for all of your help with the info. By the way the drive home was insane. The truck is a beast now. It feels faster than my C5 corvette. Wow!

Fantastic!!!
You need to give it around 300 miles to complete a full learning cycle. (50 miles for fuel trim, 300 miles for the Transmission cycle)
The Transmission thrust output values and throttle body input work hand in hand all by fly by wire, so it's all software based.
I suggest trying not to drive too erratic till the cycle is complete, I know it's hard but give a chance.
I've learned this over the 8 years being Supercharged.

Just hang in there, the Gen 4 and the Twin 68 mm TB is the best setup for a stock engine but also hard to control.

 

[MTF]

@Andrrw

This is what I went with and I'm very VERY happy with it.
I went through three sets of stock rotors and pads in 35,000 before going with Freedom Motorsports setup
You won't have any off those O-Shit moments when blasting around and someone cuts you off.
I've had quite a few with the stock brakes and then find out I have warped rotors.

Includes R1Concepts Geomet Drilled & Slotted Rotors Matched With Posi Quiet Ceramic Brake Pads (freedommotorsports.us)
And
Freedom Motorsports Custom Stainless Braided Brake Line Kit For 2010-2011 Ford Raptor SVT

Calling:
@Chris@FreedoMotorsports

 

[Steve Young]

Looks just like mine but mine is black. Awesome truck! My favorite vehicle for sure. Does your have any upgrades to the braking system? I could see that being in line with my next upgrade worh all the extra HP. Any recommendations would be great. I have heard replacing the rubber lines with braided is an upgrade but not sure if that actually true. Also not sure I want to drop $5k on a while new brake system.

Andrrw, Thank you! I did not do any changes to the braking system, lines or rubber hoses outside of moving some connectors at the wheel hubs. There was a modification to the shocks (King VS Fox) and a different rear leaf spring set up. This is in additional to all of the Hennessey package mods. I have had zero issues with it except when running next to Hellcat Chargers, I run out to road/pavement before I run out of throttle. So Much fun. If anyone is contemplating the upgrade, and you have the cash, it's well worth it. IMOHO.

 

[Andrrw]

Fantastic!!!
You need to give it around 300 miles to complete a full learning cycle. (50 miles for fuel trim, 300 miles for the Transmission cycle)
The Transmission thrust output values and throttle body input work hand in hand all by fly by wire, so it's all software based.
I suggest trying not to drive too erratic till the cycle is complete, I know it's hard but give a chance.
I've learned this over the 8 years being Supercharged.

Just hang in there, the Gen 4 and the Twin 68 mm TB is the best setup for a stock engine but also hard to control.

I will give that a try for sure. A local tune shop contacted me from word through the grapevine and they want me to put it on their dyno and see what is going on. They said that they install an O2 sensor and read the air fuel ratios and a lot of other things to see why it is reacting the way it is. I am going to wait for Whipple’s engineer to respond. By then I will have around 300 miles on the truck as I am expecting 3-5 days for a response which has been the norm from Whipple so far. If it’s still surging I will see if Whipple has the fix. If not it doesn’t hurt to have it dyno’d to see what the local shop thinks. I will update this forum once I figure this all out. I will try to drive it normal for the next few days. It is in another shop now getting an aftermarket drive shaft and that fuse that goes bad relocated. Thanks again for the help.

 

[MTF]

I will give that a try for sure. A local tune shop contacted me from word through the grapevine and they want me to put it on their dyno and see what is going on. They said that they install an O2 sensor and read the air fuel ratios and a lot of other things to see why it is reacting the way it is. I am going to wait for Whipple’s engineer to respond. By then I will have around 300 miles on the truck as I am expecting 3-5 days for a response which has been the norm from Whipple so far. If it’s still surging I will see if Whipple has the fix. If not it doesn’t hurt to have it dyno’d to see what the local shop thinks. I will update this forum once I figure this all out. I will try to drive it normal for the next few days. It is in another shop now getting an aftermarket drive shaft and that fuse that goes bad relocated. Thanks again for the help.

I see your upgrading the driveshaft but what are you doing to stop wheel hop?
Wheel hop will break that new driveshaft!
I like to drive mine sporty on the roads. LOL
While this 6,000 lbs. beast is not a sports car, you can make it much more stable to drive on the street.
I did the Deavers +2, Rogue Racing traction bars, Hellwig rear sway bar and put the front shocks on Mid-Perch.
This improved street driving dramatically, night and day results!!!
I originally started out with the Deavers +2 HD
but now that I have traction bars I will be going to the SD to get a smoother ride in the rear.
Just something to think about.

 

[Andrrw]

I see your upgrading the driveshaft but what are you doing to stop wheel hop?
Wheel hop will break that new driveshaft!
I like to drive mine sporty on the roads. LOL
While this 6,000 lbs. beast is not a sports car, you can make it much more stable to drive on the street.
I did the Deavers +2, Rogue Racing traction bars, Hellwig rear sway bar and put the front shocks on Mid-Perch.
This improved street driving dramatically, night and day results!!!
I originally started out with the Deavers +2 HD
but now that I have traction bars I will be going to the SD to get a smoother ride in the rear.
Just something to think about.

I have Installed Deaver +2’s and traction bars as well as fox 3.0’s. I knew from the beginning that the wheel hop was out of control. 4.10 gears with 400 HP on big tires and crap springs made 1st gear worthless. I couldn’t believe the sounds I heard the first time I pressed the gas to the floor in 1st gear-stock. I couldn’t believe Ford let it leave the factory with such an issue. Weather on road or off. It’s solid now. Only reason the drive shaft is after market is because I had the dealer install a new driveshaft after the original was making creaking noises. The one they installed did the same thing and Gen 1 driveshafts are not available through Ford anymore. I suggested aftermarket to the dealer and they agreed under their parts warranty. I have also been told that the stock shaft is dangerous over 100mph. I guess the tires are as well after steady speeds over 100 which is dangerous as hell anyway you look at it.

Drove the truck about 200 miles in the last two days and I am still getting a surge. Waiting on Whipple next week to see if they suggest a tune fix. If not I am going to have a professional hook it to a dyno and let me know what is going on. He is also going to diagnose this motor for any air leaks and obvious things before analyzing the tune. He said it’s best to make sure the install was correct before checking the tune.

Side note. I did hear a ticking noise today at idle and I found that one of the lower spark plug wires came loose from the plug and was arching out. It freaked me out a bit but I pushed it back in and it seems to run fine again, well, except for the surging when cruising and rolling on the throttle very slow.

 

[Andrrw]

@Andrrw

This is what I went with and I'm very VERY happy with it.
I went through three sets of stock rotors and pads in 35,000 before going with Freedom Motorsports setup
You won't have any off those O-Shit moments when blasting around and someone cuts you off.
I've had quite a few with the stock brakes and then find out I have warped rotors.

Includes R1Concepts Geomet Drilled & Slotted Rotors Matched With Posi Quiet Ceramic Brake Pads (freedommotorsports.us)
And
Freedom Motorsports Custom Stainless Braided Brake Line Kit For 2010-2011 Ford Raptor SVT

Calling:
@Chris@FreedoMotorsports

I will order this set. Thank you!

 

[B E N]

If your getting surge stay out of the throttle pedal, that is very likely a lean condition.

 

[MTF]

@Andrrw
The Whipple Tune has all the safeties enabled in the Tune, it's not a lean condition!
It's that the Gen 4 is so efficient that even in low throttle it's creating lots of vacuum and it's difficult to control the TB.