Stock Fox Shock Maintenance

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Wilson

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so when the shock's get bad do they bounce down the road or just flat out quit bouncing. or I guess what I'm trying to say is it will bounce on the spring. but is that too late to have them redone at that time?
 

Maxx2893

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so when the shock's get bad do they bounce down the road or just flat out quit bouncing. or I guess what I'm trying to say is it will bounce on the spring. but is that too late to have them redone at that time?

You should be able to rebuild them anytime, as long as there is no damage to them.
 

BDRAG

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You should be able to rebuild them anytime, as long as there is no damage to them.

O.K. All you SHOCK GOOROO'S! I have 41,350 miles on my 2011 SCREW. I bought a used set of 4 OEM shocks from a 2013 SCREW. 15,000 miles on them.

For the last 1000 miles or so I have had the hippity hop rear end. Whats been more bothersome than the 2-4 rebounds and soft ass end ride on bumps and humps is the feel of a rock and roll ass end when hammering around turns. This is on the street not the dirt. It feels like one of those lizards you see on TV looks that runs across the water on its hind legs. Just a left, right, left like the rear end is rock and rolling, no wheel hop to speak of just a well, well a motor boat feel? HAhaaaa.

So today I busted out the new used rear shocks. It took me about 20 minutes to swap out the drivers side and about 5 minutes to get the passenges side swapped out in the drive way with a jackstand, floor jack and a few other tools. Bigist deal was getting the the new shock collapsed enough to get it in the top hole. I installed the lower bolt first. Now this is doing one side at a time, removing just the wheel on the side I was working on. So to deal with this I used a ratcheting strap and just used it to collapse the shock.

After I removed the second shock I decided to do a FAT ASS COMPRESSION check comparing the new and old. The old shock would collapse almost completely under my 315 lbs of muscle. The new shock only barley gave at all and only after a little bouncing did it collapse 1/2 inch or so. WOW!

So to me, that seems like the rear of the truck just gained 600 lbs of lift! AHhaaaa.

Test drove the truck and OH MAN what a difference. No wollowing through the turns. I could hammer it and get some minimal wheel spin but ZERO wheel hop and ZERO water lizard feel. WOW! Wish I had the money for different rear leaf's and better shocks but for what I paid for the take offs, I am good for now but want to go ahead and change out the fronts soon. They just so happen to be Mid Perch. So I won't be a low rider after that THANK YOU VERY MUCH! AHhaaaaa.

So I will be sending in the old ones once removed. If it goes as planned I have 25-30K before I need to get the work done. Start saving now! AHahaaa.

So to whoever it was that says OEM shocks go 100,000 miles, *********! AHahaaa.

I did the first TRR with about 15,000 miles on the truck. I made the comments on the second day that MY TRUCK HAS GONE SOFT, LIMBERED THE HELL UP! So for those who do off road, Yes your OEM shocks will shit much faster than street use. By the way my best lap time at TRR 1 was on the PRE RUN and it was around the 1 : 23 minute or 1 :32 minute mark. Can't remember since I cracked my skull on the ice last month. HAhaaa.

BDRAG
 

dataustin

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BDRAG, first, I wish yo were my neighbor so you could help me with my shocks. :) Second, I can't seem to find the down time to remove and ship my shocks back to FOX. Oh well....
 

Evilmonkey

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BDRAG,
If you could collapse the rear shock with minimal effort it sounds like the nitrogen pressure has dropped significantly. Was there any shock oil leaking from the seals? Good thing you've got extra set. I've rebuilt my rears three times and now am getting ready for the fronts.
 

BDRAG

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BDRAG, first, I wish yo were my neighbor so you could help me with my shocks. :) Second, I can't seem to find the down time to remove and ship my shocks back to FOX. Oh well....

Well, I am your neighbor. I am in Texas as well! AHhaaaa. Buy a set on ebay or check with the guy's replacing their shocks and buy a set from them to either use like I did or to send in for rebuild. I paid about what one rear shock costs for a used set of 4 with 15 K on them. Keep an eye on the threads here for used sets. I have seen them go for between $600 and $1200 depending on mileage. Higher prices for almost no miles.

BDRAG

---------- Post added at 07:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:18 PM ----------

BDRAG,
If you could collapse the rear shock with minimal effort it sounds like the nitrogen pressure has dropped significantly. Was there any shock oil leaking from the seals? Good thing you've got extra set. I've rebuilt my rears three times and now am getting ready for the fronts.

NO leaks. I didn't take much time looking the take offs over but did look for evidence of oil and saw none. I figured its a gas issue just like the lift gate gas struts on hoods and rear lifts have had for many years. They just bypass gas.

I was looking at the take offs and just how do you install the Nitrogen? There is not a real valve like on a tire to gas it up? Looks almost like a plunger that's pressed in with a tip maybe? On some of our CNC Mills at work the Z axis is supported with gas struts with gages on them and they leak here and there all the time and I have them serviced and they use a screw on hose with a ball valve set up.

Rebuilt 3 times in HOW MANY MILES????? HHAaaaaa.

BDRAG

---------- Post added at 07:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:26 PM ----------

You know my rear shock issues STARTED just after the Ice Storm in December????? Wonder if the near single digit temps and the massive cobblestone Ice packs I drove on at 60-90 mph as if it was a desert track had any negative effect on the rear shocks?

BDRAG
 

Maxx2893

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Well, I am your neighbor. I am in Texas as well! AHhaaaa. Buy a set on ebay or check with the guy's replacing their shocks and buy a set from them to either use like I did or to send in for rebuild. I paid about what one rear shock costs for a used set of 4 with 15 K on them. Keep an eye on the threads here for used sets. I have seen them go for between $600 and $1200 depending on mileage. Higher prices for almost no miles.

BDRAG

---------- Post added at 07:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:18 PM ----------



NO leaks. I didn't take much time looking the take offs over but did look for evidence of oil and saw none. I figured its a gas issue just like the lift gate gas struts on hoods and rear lifts have had for many years. They just bypass gas.

I was looking at the take offs and just how do you install the Nitrogen? There is not a real valve like on a tire to gas it up? Looks almost like a plunger that's pressed in with a tip maybe? On some of our CNC Mills at work the Z axis is supported with gas struts with gages on them and they leak here and there all the time and I have them serviced and they use a screw on hose with a ball valve set up.

Rebuilt 3 times in HOW MANY MILES????? HHAaaaaa.

BDRAG

---------- Post added at 07:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:26 PM ----------

You know my rear shock issues STARTED just after the Ice Storm in December????? Wonder if the near single digit temps and the massive cobblestone Ice packs I drove on at 60-90 mph as if it was a desert track had any negative effect on the rear shocks?

BDRAG

You can install a Schrader valve on them but the stockers require a nitrogen needle to fill them. Almost think like filling footballs, basketballs, etc.
 

Evilmonkey

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To refill the nitrogen you need to remove the small white round protective BB. Under that is a 1/4 inch piece of rubber that you need to pierce with a special needle attached to specialized tool. I went with a different route and changed the resivoir cap from stock to a setup with a Schrader valve from SDHQ. One of my friends owns a Yamaha dealership and let me use their nitrogen setup for my recharging.

Miles on my Raptor- only 94,000!
 

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Maxx2893

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To refill the nitrogen you need to remove the small white round protective BB. Under that is a 1/4 inch piece of rubber that you need to pierce with a special needle attached to specialized tool. I went with a different route and changed the resivoir cap from stock to a setup with a Schrader valve from SDHQ. One of my friends owns a Yamaha dealership and let me use their nitrogen setup for my recharging.

Miles on my Raptor- only 94,000!

What's the cost on the Schrader valve swap?
 
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