Stereo Upgrade

[jwrueda]

Here is a pic of the door panel but nothing really to see. The speakers all fit behind the stock panel so looks like any other door panel..


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[Kyle@Apollo-Optics]

Fits nicely behind the door. I’m going to stick with A-pillars to help raise the stage on the dash. The hardest part for me is deciding on what sub setup. I’ve never owned a shallow mount sub. I’ve heard three 13TW5’s under the rear seat being powered by the same amp Ive been running for the last three years (JL 1200HD) and I wasn’t really impressed. Lacked low end. I listen to everything from Country to metal, to rap and sometimes there’s a little bass head in me. I’m coming from two 10W7’s ported. Mobile Toys said they have done multiple 8W7 installs. They said soon they will be releasing a setup for 4-8W7’s under the seat, but it will require a 2 1/2” seat lift.


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[Guy]

I’m running two alpine type R thins. If you look at the design and the excursion it’s almost as long as their regular type R sub. Two are powered by a JL HD1200.

You’d be impressed. To give you some idea of the low notes being produced... on a very heavy bass song.... it feels like a tire is blown on the truck because the steering wheel is shaking so badly that if you left your hands off of it you’d shake off the road. In all seriousness.

It’ll bounce pens right out of the cup holder. It’ll bounce an iPhone X plus right off the center console. It hits hard enough that sometimes it’s uncomfortable. I’ve had my ears ringing from it.

Keep in mind.... this is a sealed setup!

It’s about on par with 2-3 JL 10s.

They aren’t cheap but im very impressed.

They play clean up to around 80hz 24db pass. I’m running them at 60 currently and with a little time delay adjustment, for the most part, the bass is centered in the truck.

This is only my second time ever running anything alpine, so I’m in no way an Alpine Guy. Just an accurate shake. No pun intended.

Fits nicely behind the door. I’m going to stick with A-pillars to help raise the stage on the dash. The hardest part for me is deciding on what sub setup. I’ve never owned a shallow mount sub. I’ve heard three 13TW5’s under the rear seat being powered by the same amp Ive been running for the last three years (JL 1200HD) and I wasn’t really impressed. Lacked low end. I listen to everything from Country to metal, to rap and sometimes there’s a little bass head in me. I’m coming from two 10W7’s ported. Mobile Toys said they have done multiple 8W7 installs. They said soon they will be releasing a setup for 4-8W7’s under the seat, but it will require a 2 1/2” seat lift.


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[dhmcfadin]

Fits nicely behind the door. I’m going to stick with A-pillars to help raise the stage on the dash. The hardest part for me is deciding on what sub setup. I’ve never owned a shallow mount sub. I’ve heard three 13TW5’s under the rear seat being powered by the same amp Ive been running for the last three years (JL 1200HD) and I wasn’t really impressed. Lacked low end. I listen to everything from Country to metal, to rap and sometimes there’s a little bass head in me. I’m coming from two 10W7’s ported. Mobile Toys said they have done multiple 8W7 installs. They said soon they will be releasing a setup for 4-8W7’s under the seat, but it will require a 2 1/2” seat lift.


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JL 12tw3 plays louder and lower than the 13tw5. Two tw3's under the rear seat will sound phenomenal.

 

[Kyle@Apollo-Optics]

JL 12tw3 plays louder and lower than the 13tw5. Two tw3's under the rear seat will sound phenomenal.

What’s funny is Mobile Toys said the opposite LOL.

I read your posts on DIYMA about the MK V’s and really contemplating them. Are you still happy with three? I really need to make the hr drive and listen to yours in persons

On a side note I know you and I discussed people having problems with the Audison Bit One and the Nav TV. Mobile Toys said they haven’t had a problem with using one. I’d love to keep is since I’m having no problems with mine and I’d need to spend $1600 for the Mosconi 8 to 12.


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[Kyle@Apollo-Optics]

I’m running two alpine type R thins. If you look at the design and the excursion it’s almost as long as their regular type R sub. Two are powered by a JL HD1200.

You’d be impressed. To give you some idea of the low notes being produced... on a very heavy bass song.... it feels like a tire is blown on the truck because the steering wheel is shaking so badly that if you left your hands off of it you’d shake off the road. In all seriousness.

It’ll bounce pens right out of the cup holder. It’ll bounce an iPhone X plus right off the center console. It hits hard enough that sometimes it’s uncomfortable. I’ve had my ears ringing from it.

Keep in mind.... this is a sealed setup!

It’s about on par with 2-3 JL 10s.

They aren’t cheap but im very impressed.

They play clean up to around 80hz 24db pass. I’m running them at 60 currently and with a little time delay adjustment, for the most part, the bass is centered in the truck.

This is only my second time ever running anything alpine, so I’m in no way an Alpine Guy. Just an accurate shake. No pun intended.

Thanks for the reply Guy.

I’ve known quite a few people who were really happy with the Type R’s.

I’m really thinking 3 SI MK V 12’s.
I have so many subs in my garage I can’t use for this build.
Gear choices that are just sitting in my garage are
Old School class A/B Eclipse 4 channel 85X4
Old school class A/B Eclipse 130 x2
Zuki class D 5 channel 5W X 5.
JL Slash 500/1
JL HD 600/4
JL HD 1200/1
JBL MS8
Audison Bit One
Focal Utopia 165W’s (one mids crackling 16 yrs old)
Two JL 10W7’s
One JL 10W6v2
2-SQ 10’s
1-SQ monster 8.

I guess I need to have a garage sale.






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[dhmcfadin]

What’s funny is Mobile Toys said the opposite LOL.

I read your posts on DIYMA about the MK V’s and really contemplating them. Are you still happy with three? I really need to make the hr drive and listen to yours in persons

On a side note I know you and I discussed people having problems with the Audison Bit One and the Nav TV. Mobile Toys said they haven’t had a problem with using one. I’d love to keep is since I’m having no problems with mine and I’d need to spend $1600 for the Mosconi 8 to 12.


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From a spec standpoint:
The tw5 has 11 mm of Xmax and the tw3 has 15.1 mm of xmax.

The tw3 also has a lower fs than the tw5.

The tw3 is a dual voice coil where the tw5 is a single voice coil.

The tw5 is designed for applications that require a shallower mounting depth. Tw3 requires 3.5”, tw5 requires 2.625”

The tw3 is the superior driver.

 

[dhmcfadin]

What’s funny is Mobile Toys said the opposite LOL.

I read your posts on DIYMA about the MK V’s and really contemplating them. Are you still happy with three? I really need to make the hr drive and listen to yours in persons

On a side note I know you and I discussed people having problems with the Audison Bit One and the Nav TV. Mobile Toys said they haven’t had a problem with using one. I’d love to keep is since I’m having no problems with mine and I’d need to spend $1600 for the Mosconi 8 to 12.


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I can’t speak for the Audison and the NavTV unit other than a very specific case of the owner/ceo of NavTV publicly saying that Audison does not offer proper input voltage adjustment. As a result, the Audison requires a higher amount of signal inout voltage for the volume to be correct on the output side of the Audison dsp. There was a poster on the f150 that had to send his Audison processor to Moni (ceo of NavTV) and Moni custom modified the board of the Audison to allow for lower input voltage.

I don’t have anything against Audison but they just aren’t ahead or even close to the leaders anymore. Countless people across various car audio forums corroborate this story and many stories of hardware and software support issues. Lastly, audison’s customer service virtual non existent. Im not trying to sell you anything but as a fellow high fidelity audio lover I am trying to save a tremendous headache and some money in the process all while having a better sounding system.

You don’t need to spend 1600.00 on a mosconi dsp to have an incredible system. MiniDSP 8x12 V 2 is a phenomenal processor that will perform better and more reliably than the Audison processor and perform exactly the same with the same features as the mosconi aerospace at a third of the cost. Further, the MiniDSP community is HUGE, they have a dedicated forum and ever person that I have talked to that uses one says their customer support is spot on. If I didn’t have a helix processor in my truck now, I would switch to the mini dsp in a heart beat.

https://www.minidsp.com/products/ca...xb7SvvjMBl-G7TFCzd9eVVR87cILr1jgaAk6nEALw_wcB

Lastly, I freaking love my MKV’s. They are straight up beasts. They handle anything I throw at them and sound absolutely beautiful. As far as shallows go, I will take them over anything else. And btw, the MKV will spank a set of tw5’s all day long.

 

[dhmcfadin]

But I’ll say this, you can always try the Audison with the zen a2b and see if it works. Switching a dsp is easy.

 

[Kyle@Apollo-Optics]

I can’t speak for the Audison and the NavTV unit other than a very specific case of the owner/ceo of NavTV publicly saying that Audison does not offer proper input voltage adjustment. As a result, the Audison requires a higher amount of signal inout voltage for the volume to be correct on the output side of the Audison dsp. There was a poster on the f150 that had to send his Audison processor to Moni (ceo of NavTV) and Moni custom modified the board of the Audison to allow for lower input voltage.

I don’t have anything against Audison but they just aren’t ahead or even close to the leaders anymore. Countless people across various car audio forums corroborate this story and many stories of hardware and software support issues. Lastly, audison’s customer service virtual non existent. Im not trying to sell you anything but as a fellow high fidelity audio lover I am trying to save a tremendous headache and some money in the process all while having a better sounding system.

You don’t need to spend 1600.00 on a mosconi dsp to have an incredible system. MiniDSP 8x12 V 2 is a phenomenal processor that will perform better and more reliably than the Audison processor and perform exactly the same with the same features as the mosconi aerospace at a third of the cost. Further, the MiniDSP community is HUGE, they have a dedicated forum and ever person that I have talked to that uses one says their customer support is spot on. If I didn’t have a helix processor in my truck now, I would switch to the mini dsp in a heart beat.

https://www.minidsp.com/products/ca...xb7SvvjMBl-G7TFCzd9eVVR87cILr1jgaAk6nEALw_wcB

Lastly, I freaking love my MKV’s. They are straight up beasts. They handle anything I throw at them and sound absolutely beautiful. As far as shallows go, I will take them over anything else. And btw, the MKV will spank a set of tw5’s all day long.

But I’ll say this, you can always try the Audison with the zen a2b and see if it works. Switching a dsp is easy.

Thanks Dominic. I knew I could count on you for input. I’d love to find that thread on the F-150 forum. I’ll try it first and if it doesn’t work I’ll ask Moni if he could do the same for me. If not I can always sell it for $4-500.

I’ll go read up on the mini-dip now. I’d love to hear your setup on a Saturday your not busy. I know everyone has been really busy lately. Myself included. Building a new house and my truck hasn’t even shown up yet. ETA is March 30th as of now. I need to order the Zen and the MK V’s when they come back in stock. I need to hit you up for your dimensions of your box and just build one my self. The only thing I don’t have that I think I’ll need is a router.

I saw you pushing Morels on DIY also. What model number mids do you have? I was thinking Utopia M’s at first and then I started chatting with a buddy of mine. Bing from Simplicity in Sound and he was pushing me towards the Audio Frog GB25’s in my A-pillars.
He was talking to me about the Gladden 6.5” midbass, but from all the reviews of the AF GB60 I may pick up a set of those for a 3 way.

Thanks man

Kyle









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