GEN 2 So many new goodies

[II Sevv]

Only doing outer tie rods defeats the purpose of strengthening them as the inner tie rod is the thinnest section anyway

 

[Mister Pinky]

I thought the stock shocks were serious. Those coil overs mean real business.

 

[fftfk]

Sweet set up! Dumb question time - what is a BOV?

 

[Tlox]

Badass set up!

 

[Lilla Kharn]

Sweet set up! Dumb question time - what is a BOV?

BOV = Blow off valve.

When the turbos create charge (Pressurized air) the intake system holds it after the turbos (Turbos-intercooler-throttle body). However, if you let off the gas, the truck shifts, etc. The compressed air needs to go somewhere as it can’t stay in the charged side of the intercooler to the throttle body. This would create problems with air/fuel ratio and just all around badness on the wear and tear.

The stock BOV recirculates air into the intake side prior to the intercooler. You can actually find the hose running downwards off your lower intake pipe. This system is good but when making higher boost it can get in the way. The most common reason to change out the BOV is that you want it to vent to atmosphere. Doing so gives you the pssssssshhhh sound you used to hear from the early 2000’s ricers. Personally, I love that sound.

I am not familiar enough with tuning these engines to know the pros and cons of running an aftermarket BOV. On my Subaru, the going consensus was that changing the BOV was pretty terrible as the stock BOV could handle all the boost the engine could handle without a sleeve. The way Subaru calculated air intake was also different from Ford. Also, aftermarket BOV’s had a tendency to leak at that time. Don’t know if they still do.

Edit: @zombiekiller responded further down with specific Raptor information as opposed to my general information.

 

[Deleted member 17706]

Only doing outer tie rods defeats the purpose of strengthening them as the inner tie rod is the thinnest section anyway

No, your wrong. With the electronic steering rack on the Gen 2, it has been common to screw up the rack running inner and outer tie rods. So running just the outer tie rods gives you all the added strength that you need without running the risk of messing up the entire steering rack. Guys have been running 37-40" tires with just the outer tie rods without issue. You can run a full one-piece tie rod on the Gen 1 given that it doesn't have an electronic rack.

 

[zombiekiller]

Only doing outer tie rods defeats the purpose of strengthening them as the inner tie rod is the thinnest section anyway

uh, not accurate. not even close.

The inner tie rods don't get touched because

1. no boots seal like the factory boots on inner tie rods. ( there were a slew of trucks with cooked steering racks ( shorted out) due to RPGs crappy design/implementation and moisture getting into the EPAS.

2. inner tie rods are cheap. Using them as the fuse is smart. If the outer bends, it will generally take out the knuckle or CV.

3. Just doing the outer tie rods tightens up the steering feel substantially.

4. Even with 40s, even running really hard, I've never bent an inner. I broke a steering shaft joint, but not an inner.

Not sure who gave you that nugget of wisdom, but it is dead wrong.

 

[II Sevv]

No, your wrong. With the electronic steering rack on the Gen 2, it has been common to screw up the rack running inner and outer tie rods. So running just the outer tie rods gives you all the added strength that you need without running the risk of messing up the entire steering rack. Guys have been running 37-40" tires with just the outer tie rods without issue. You can run a full one-piece tie rod on the Gen 1 given that it doesn't have an electronic rack.

My point wasn’t that he needs to go buy a complete tie rod; my point was that it’s statistically extremely unlikely to have a failure at the outer tie rod, given that it’s the thickest section and the laws of physics state that the section of a lever closest to the fulcrum is under the least amount of force anyway.

 

[zombiekiller]

My point wasn’t that he needs to go buy a complete tie rod; my point was that it’s statistically extremely unlikely to have a failure at the outer tie rod, given that it’s the thickest section and the laws of physics state that the section of a lever closest to the fulcrum is under the least amount of force anyway.

every stock TRE failure on a gen2 raptor that I've seen has been the outer tie rod. Every time I've had to swap one on the trail, The inner was completely fine.

Your hypothesis differs from real-world experience. In my experience, your hypothesis is inaccurate. I'm not sure if the tie rod inners are made by the same MFG, but the casting on the outers are a lot weaker than the inners.

 

[zombiekiller]

BOV = Blow off valve.

When the turbos create charge (Pressurized air) the intake system holds it after the turbos (Turbos-intercooler-throttle body). However, if you let off the gas, the truck shifts, etc. The compressed air needs to go somewhere as it can’t stay in the charged side of the intercooler to the throttle body. This would create problems with air/fuel ratio and just all around badness on the wear and tear.

The stock BOV recirculates air into the intake side prior to the intercooler. You can actually find the hose running downwards off your lower intake pipe. This system is good but when making higher boost it can get in the way. The most common reason to change out the BOV is that you want it to vent to atmosphere. Doing so gives you the pssssssshhhh sound you used to hear from the early 2000’s ricers. Personally, I love that sound.

I am not familiar enough with tuning these engines to know the pros and cons of running an aftermarket BOV. On my Subaru, the going consensus was that changing the BOV was pretty terrible as the stock BOV could handle all the boost the engine could handle without a sleeve. The way Subaru calculated air intake was also different from Ford. Also, aftermarket BOV’s had a tendency to leak at that time. Don’t know if they still do.

the majority of the factory BOV is plastic. Aluminum>plastic . They start to crack when the trucks get used in extreme conditions. They also start to crack when you throw more than 22PSI at them on a regular basis.

I switched to the turbosmart (first version) and haven't had an issue since. I removed the housing and plugged the factory BOV back in to the hardness to avoid any DTCs ( it is small and if someone in a stock truck has a faulty one, I can switch it out and just plug their broken one into my truck. ( doesn't do anything functional except complete the electrical circuit on my truck)