Scepter Gas Cans on Expedition Portal

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MagicMtnDan

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I went to several stores today and was finally able to round up all 3 of the parts to make the slip fitting 3-piece spout (without the vinyl tubing which I'll buy later).

I'm not spending any more time driving to stores to see if they have the parts - here's what I found online:

The fitting (439-249) is available from several locations online or locally.

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Ryan Herco Flow Solutions
Their part number: 3439.249
Generic part number: 439-249 PVC BUSH N40 2X1" MTXT
$2.42
http://webcat.rhfs.com/familydetails.aspx?FamID=391
You can call them to order or you can go to one of their retail centers - they have locations (in 17 states) listed here: http://www.rhfs.com/Locations/#02
Call: 1-800-848-1141


www.Wateright.com also has it for sale
PVC SCH 40 Part # 439-249
$2.30 each
http://www.wateright.com/index.asp?PageAction=CARTDETAILS



And the gray 1" male to the vinyl tubing fitting is Genova 350410 Male Insert Adapter

[URL="http://http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AZ3WGI/?tag=fordraptorforum-20: Genova 350410 Male Insert Adapter: Home Improvement[/url]
$0.30 each

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frogslinger

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These cans are pretty good...

Our SOP last time I was in the sandbox was to stop in a relatively safe zone so we could refuel our CET teams' HMMWVs off of our 915s (armored HMMWVs get literally hundreds of yards to the gallon). Because of the placement of the fuel racks on the 915's trailers and the position the HMMWVs would take up to provide the most cover during the stops, you would end up flinging the gas cans about 15 yards in order to speed up the process. We never had one fail but several of them would develop leaks from the lids, also the "donkey *****" had a tendency to fall of covering the soldier refueling in JP-8.
 

The Tank

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These cans are pretty good...

Our SOP last time I was in the sandbox was to stop in a relatively safe zone so we could refuel our CET teams' HMMWVs off of our 915s (armored HMMWVs get literally hundreds of yards to the gallon). Because of the placement of the fuel racks on the 915's trailers and the position the HMMWVs would take up to provide the most cover during the stops, you would end up flinging the gas cans about 15 yards in order to speed up the process. We never had one fail but several of them would develop leaks from the lids, also the "donkey *****" had a tendency to fall of covering the soldier refueling in JP-8.

We had a few fall out the back of one of our 2500HD when we were off-road to get to a water pump and I was surprised to find we lose that much and fuel we lost came out the vent port.
 

MagicMtnDan

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In regard to gasoline "eating rubber" (not exactly!)...this is a response from a friend...


Again, imo the keyboard-wheeling dweebs are overthinking this. I've got 4 Scepter diesel cans and been running gas in them for 10 years + with no leaking. There is no apparent deterioration of the gaskets.

Keep some things in mind: (1) rubber, in general, is not necessarily a problem with exposure to gasoline...lots of fuel lines, etc, are made of rubber. (2) the cap gasket is not submerged in gasoline...a little splash now and then, and only on the edge. (3) Scepter is of course concerned about the deterioration of gaskets--gasoline and plaintiff's lawyers don't mix well--so its possible Scepter opted for the Viton material for longer resistance to deterioration, and Viton may last longer, but that doesn't mean the rubber gaskets turn to goo at the first whiff of gasoline fumes (4) why exposure to diesel fuel ok? Diesel fuel is only a slightly less efficient solvent than gasoline.

Put gas in your cans, tighten the caps good, don't transport the cans inside (always a bad practice) and take a look at the gaskets once a year if you're concerned. Don't over-think it. :)
 

BigJ

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:) *** Keyboard wheeling dweeb alert! *** Keyboard wheeling dweeb alert! ***

With much love and respect...

What we generally call "gasoline" is a blend, and that blend varies state to state, region to region, season to season. The issue is that blend includes varying percentages of (among other things) ethanol. Ethanol is a solvent. And a solvent will eat rubber. So, generally speaking, its safe to say "gasoline will eat rubber".

This is even more critical for guys like me who prefer to store E85. Rubber gaskets wont last 6 months when storing E85 (I've tried it).

What is debatable is how much that fact really matters in this case? On that point, I'm not going to argue with Blair at all. He's got some great experience to rely on and I don't doubt him at all! But for me, based on my experience storing both gasoline and E85, using both rubber and viton gaskets, the $5 premium of the viton gasket is justified if for no other reason that I don't have to remind myself to check them every 6 months or so.

Bottom line is with a viton gasket, unlike with a rubber gasket, I don't need to concern myself when storing E85 for extended periods of time; helps me with my preferred 'set it and forget it' general approach to life :mrgreen:

Edit: Oh and PS... I'm not positive Scepter is too concerned about being sued by the military over rubber vs viton gaskets. I'm fairly certain they use viton because its the right call :p
 

BigJ

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Got my 4 cans today and they're in better shape than I expected. Three were diesel, one gas. I split a gallon of E85 between the 4 and sloshed it around, leaving it overnight to help clean 'em out. I gave 'em a quick scrub with some water and steel wool and they polished up nicely. Really glad to have these cans, finally after searching for around a year! Thanks for the tip Kaiser.
 
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KaiserM715

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Got my 4 cans today and they're in better shape than I expected. Three were diesel, one gas. I split a gallon of E85 between the 4 and sloshed it around, leaving it overnight to help clean 'em out. I gave 'em a quick scrub with some water and steel wool and they polished up nicely. Really glad to have these cans, finally after searching for around a year! Thanks for the tip Kaiser.
Glad to help out. I will have to give the steel wool a try. I will say one thing, some of those lids can be very hard to get off. I cleaned up the can side threads and that helped, but I am still going to invest in some strap wrenches. There is a source for a custom wrench that fits these, but is $40 each.
 

MagicMtnDan

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:) *** Keyboard wheeling dweeb alert! *** Keyboard wheeling dweeb alert! ***

With much love and respect...

What we generally call "gasoline" is a blend, and that blend varies state to state, region to region, season to season. The issue is that blend includes varying percentages of (among other things) ethanol. Ethanol is a solvent. And a solvent will eat rubber. So, generally speaking, its safe to say "gasoline will eat rubber".

This is even more critical for guys like me who prefer to store E85. Rubber gaskets wont last 6 months when storing E85 (I've tried it).

What is debatable is how much that fact really matters in this case? On that point, I'm not going to argue with Blair at all. He's got some great experience to rely on and I don't doubt him at all! But for me, based on my experience storing both gasoline and E85, using both rubber and viton gaskets, the $5 premium of the viton gasket is justified if for no other reason that I don't have to remind myself to check them every 6 months or so.

Bottom line is with a viton gasket, unlike with a rubber gasket, I don't need to concern myself when storing E85 for extended periods of time; helps me with my preferred 'set it and forget it' general approach to life :mrgreen:

Edit: Oh and PS... I'm not positive Scepter is too concerned about being sued by the military over rubber vs viton gaskets. I'm fairly certain they use viton because its the right call :p



Good stuff J :thumbsup: The E85 use/storage wasn't anything we talked about. Based on your E85 comments I guess it's safe to assume that vehicles designed to run E85 don't use any rubber in the gas lines.

By the way, I purchased a couple of Viton gaskets since they were "cheap" - waiting for them to arrive from PA source.

Kaiser, I think the nylon reduction cap that will accept the threaded barb with fill tube would also accept a threaded cap. Regarding the pic below: Replace the male threaded-to-male barbed piece with a male threaded-to-threaded piece and a female threaded cap. I find this solution interesting (with the screw on/off threaded cap) because I don't see any reason it couldn't stay on the Sceptre can thereby replacing the factory-made Sceptre cap. What do you think?

Here's a link to the nylon parts for the Sceptre can: http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57928


nhds1.jpg
 

BigJ

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Glad to help out. I will have to give the steel wool a try. I will say one thing, some of those lids can be very hard to get off. I cleaned up the can side threads and that helped, but I am still going to invest in some strap wrenches. There is a source for a custom wrench that fits these, but is $40 each.
I noticed that too. Even my gorilla hands struggled with them.

Like you said, I'm going to add a strap wrench to my toolbox. This is something that probably should have been in there anyway, and will certainly solve this cap problem. These things are great and have a multitude of uses; its like having a third hand.

For those unfamiliar, here's just one example:
41PZ%2BcDiJhL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
Sizes materials shapes and costs range all over the board with these things. Head to your local hardware store and pick one that suits you. I'd be surprised if you spent more than $20.
 

BigJ

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Good stuff J :thumbsup: The E85 use/storage wasn't anything we talked about. Based on your E85 comments I guess it's safe to assume that vehicles designed to run E85 don't use any rubber in the gas lines.

By the way, I purchased a couple of Viton gaskets since they were "cheap" - waiting for them to arrive from PA source.

Kaiser, I think the nylon reduction cap that will accept the threaded barb with fill tube would also accept a threaded cap. Regarding the pic below: Replace the male threaded-to-male barbed piece with a male threaded-to-threaded piece and a female threaded cap. I find this solution interesting (with the screw on/off threaded cap) because I don't see any reason it couldn't stay on the Sceptre can thereby replacing the factory-made Sceptre cap. What do you think?
That is interesting Dan. Although I wonder what happens with expansion and contraction as the weather heats up and cools. After taking apart the Sceptre top, sure looks to me like they've done their homework on that subject.

For example the TuffJugs I was running have a one piece nylon cap that threads over the mouth of the bottle. After not checking them in a while (maybe 2 months) I found them yesterday to be loose, like not even finger tight kind of loose. As mentioned above, with the Sceptre's we're going to have a problem with them being too tight (not a bad thing), not loose.

Also how much height does that add to the bottle? Still got room to store them under your bed cover?

Edit: Regarding the E85/rubber fuel lines issue... to the best of my understanding, that's part of the problem with E85 retrofits. In older-ish fuel injected cars, not only do you have to upgrade the injectors and tune, but you also have to often upgrade the fuel tank and lines because of this issue exactly. It will work for a little while, but not long...
 
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