Rusted Cab Corners

[matrix243]

So, if you only blead blast the outside around that rust hole, what are you going to fill it with, lol. I'm just saying if you put a mirror inside there, you will see the rust travels pretty far away from that hole, if you don't cut back to where there is fresh metal, you will get rust again.

There's a difference between rust through metal where the integrity is gone and surface rust that can be stopped because it hasn't penetrated into the metal. Its all solid except for the stuff I knocked off.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

There's a difference between rust through metal where the integrity is gone and surface rust that can be stopped because it hasn't penetrated into the metal. Its all solid except for the stuff I knocked off.

Okay, sounds good!

 

[John813]

Ouch.

It is a poor design.

my issue ended up being a lot worse in the end. The rust had worked its way about 12” up the b and c pillars, and estimated a near $15,000 repair. The entire cab would be need to be reskinned, both rockers and cab corners neeed replacement, and a couple of the floor supports needed replacing. Then the whole truck repainted.

I sold my truck in Feb of 2018 without spending the money on repair, I just didn’t see the value of doing it. I still miss the truck though.

Hooefully you can get yours fixed.

 

[Big Blue]

Unfortunately, a very common and expensive issue for Gen 1s.

 

[matrix243]

Updated

 

[matrix243]

Well this makes me sick. Seeing some rust somehow surfacing 6 months later, despite it all being fiberglass. HITH



Looks to be in this area.

 

[matrix243]

Thinking about it, it could be from rock impact and the paint is kind of think there since I sanded all down and has less protection.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Just touch it up until you can borrow a welder and put in some new metal one day.

 

[B E N]

Not meaning to sound harsh but you did a half way repair. You didn't remove all of the rust. You sealed the area in with fiberglass, ensuring whatever water ends up in there can't get out.

When you do rust repair all of the bad metal needs removed, any leftover rust will propagate (that is why its called cancer). New sheet metal should be welded in place, proper drainage needs to be ensured. If you don't get those pinch welds completely rust free and sealed this is going to keep coming back. Unfortunately you will probably have to source that entire bottom door sill section.

 

[matrix243]

Not meaning to sound harsh but you did a half way repair. You didn't remove all of the rust. You sealed the area in with fiberglass, ensuring whatever water ends up in there can't get out.

When you do rust repair all of the bad metal needs removed, any leftover rust will propagate (that is why its called cancer). New sheet metal should be welded in place, proper drainage needs to be ensured. If you don't get those pinch welds completely rust free and sealed this is going to keep coming back. Unfortunately you will probably have to source that entire bottom door sill section.

So you're saying rust converters doesn't work in any way? They specifically say this is the level of removable required. And not everyone can afford to rip body panel apart for replacement. This is my daily driver and can't have that long of down town. And what moisture? I've plugged the top ones which was the cause of the moisture, plus, the rocker panel has drain holes all the way down the rail, and the rocker section is directly connected to the cab corner.