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Exactly, personal preference. In 30+ years in electrical field work I've never had a properly crimped electrical connection fail. Soldering is fine, but not superior to other properly executed connections.Finally got around to hooking them up to switch #4. Damm Ford why did you make those leads sooooo short. Makes soldiering very interesting
Works like a charm. Thanks for the pics and step by step...
You guys are brave using vampire and butt connectors in an off road bounce up the mountain vehicle. When I had the headrest dvd's installed I found a shop that soldiered it in. Personal preference I guess
No, they are not. To tap for a Radar Detector feed or similar they work decently but to use them in any load bearing role is asking for failure.however t taps are not on my list of properly executed connections
I finally got around to doing this mod yesterday. I connected my brown AUX 4 wire to the yellow w/ blue wire on pin 6 from the BCM connector. This alone makes AUX 4 control both my front and rear lights when the key is on regardless of headlight switch position. It essentially turns on all the lights that would normally be on when the headlight switch was in the parking light position, but it does not dim the interior lights or gauges.
The 10-pin connector is C2280E and the yellow w/ blue wire is on pin 6. It's associated with BCM fuse #30 which controls side marker lamps, high mounted stop lamp, park/stop/turn lamps, and front marker lamps.
The 32-pin connector is C2280D and the yellow w/ green wire is on pin 18. It's associated with BCM fuse #40 which controls trailer tow relay, parking lamps, license plate lamps, park/stop/turn lamps, and marker lamps.