Roush Raptor Accessory Pulley Bearings

[87handmedown]

Long time lurker, first time poster.

I'm taking a trip with my Gen 1 here in a few weeks and it's got the Roush TVS 2300 on top. I bought the truck used set up like this, but I can just tell that maintenance wasn't a high priority for the previous owner like it should have been. I'm not having any issues, but it's about time for a new serpentine belt. While I'm doing this, I'd like to replace all the tensioner/idler bearings. When I had a Lightning, I wouldn't buy new idlers at NAPA or O'Reilly's. I'd just press the old bearings out, put new quality bearings in and go on my way. $20 would take care of all accessory and supercharger tensioners and idlers. I've tried searching on here without luck, but I haven't been able to find any part numbers. So, this brings me to my two questions:

1. Can I just replace the bearings without having to buy all new idler pulleys and tensioner assemblies? I would assume so, but since I'm not coming up with much in a search I want to be sure.

2. Does anyone have any bearing part numbers from good manufacturers like Timken or SKF that I could use to replace these bearings?

 

[mprice1234]

Sorry, mine's completely stock and I don't think I've ever seen anything posted on idler bearing numbers. Can you press the bearings out to see if they are marked?

 

[87handmedown]

Well, I didn't even have to do that. You inspired me to crawl onto a hot engine and I took them all off. I was able to get the following numbers from the bearings once they were off the engine:

Supercharger Idler - NSK 6203DG8A
Drivers Side Idler - NSK EP6203
Pass. Side Idler - NSK 6203DUL1
Tensioner Pulley - NSK 6203DG8A


So, it's now safe to say that, with a few unimportant differences, these are all the same bearings. Google is giving me the following information for an NSK 6203DU:
Single Row Ball Bearing; 17MM Bore; 40MM Outside Diameter; 12MM Outer Race Width; 1 Seal; ABEC 1 | ISO P0; No Filling Slot; No Snap Ring; C0-Medium Internal Clearance; Steel Cage

Running through some ISO standards and cross reference charts, I can safely conclude that any 6203 bearing made by a manufacturer following ISO standards will work. I just need to pay attention to make sure that any seals or caps are compatible with this application.

Timken has single sealed 6203-2RS bearings for $5.48 a piece right now on Amazon. I'm going to go ahead and order 4 of these and report back when they get in.

 

[87handmedown]

Okay, so the bearings arrived on Sunday but I wasn't able to get to this until last night. In short, this is too cheap and easy; pass up buying the whole pulley assembly. 10 out of 10 I definitely recommend saving yourself some money and doing this to your trucks.

The bearings were an exact match. Here is the link to the Timken bearings that I purchased on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08X6GB3JK/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

Make sure you purchase two of those (four bearings total). If you're still naturally aspirated you'll only need 3 but if you're like me and have the Roush package, as I know that several of you do, then you'll need all four.

The steps for all 3 (or 4) pulleys is identical.

Take tension off the belt (you don't have to remove it.
Take one or all of your idler pulleys as well as the tensioner assembly off. When doing the tensioner, the only additional step is that you have to remove the tensioner assembly from the engine, and then the tensioner pulley from the tensioner assembly.

Now, this next part is optional. I used my hydraulic press because I like finite control of things, but my press almost pushed out and reinstalled the bearings by the weight of the handle alone. So for those of you who only have a large vise, you should still be alright so long as you ate your Wheaties.

Using a socket that's slightly smaller than the opening of your pulley opening, place the FLAT SIDE (the side the ratchet attaches to) against the bearing. You do this for two reasons: one, so that the bearing presses out evenly and two, so that you don't destroy your seal on the old bearing in the unlikely event you have to reuse it for... whatever reason.

Press the bearing out. It may pop or shudder a few times as it comes out. This is normal.



You should now have a bare pulley, and old bearing, and your new bearing.


Clean your pulley with a rag and get all the dirt and oil off of it where the bearing is going to go.

Get a larger socket that's just big enough to touch the outside bearing race, but won't get stuck inside the pulley.
Again, place the FLAT SIDE of your socket against the bearing. Press the new bearing in.



You'll feel it on either your vise or the press when it's seated in the pulley. Verify by visually checking.




And that's it! Reinstall and you're done.

$20 took care of all my idlers / pulleys. It's an extra 5-10 minutes at most and will save you quite a few bucks vs purchasing an idler or tensioner assembly considering the bearing is typically the only thing that goes bad.