Rogue Racing stage 4

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and when you buy this kit, I'll buy your stuff.

Yeah, but I am grown up (almost 50) and didn't get to the rich, rich part. I do feel fortunate for what I do have though. And yes, I do have over $20k in everything I have done but I look back at it and wonder how the hell I spent so much so fast.....and trying to keep it from the wife is yet another story in itself.
 

Jimbo

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Yeah, but I am grown up (almost 50) and didn't get to the rich, rich part. I do feel fortunate for what I do have though. And yes, I do have over $20k in everything I have done but I look back at it and wonder how the hell I spent so much so fast.....and trying to keep it from the wife is yet another story in itself.

Agreed... considering I don't even pick my truck up for another 2 weeks, and I already have $4k of parts sitting here waiting to go on it!
 

Rogue Racing

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Our suspension wasn't designed for "rich guys" only. All of the components of stages 1-4 work with each other and can built on at your own pace. Most Raptor owners we have talked to, have now owned their truck for a few years now and have put a lot of money into the truck upgrading and replacing components. We wanted to offer a platform that was able to be a comprehensive and a long term solution. The beauty of the Stage 4 kit is that it doesn't need to be bought all at once. We don't recommend that a brand new Raptor owner go out and try to jump their truck. Our suspension can be built up as the owner feels more and more comfortable with off-roading, but at the same time is user friendly no matter what stage you start at. Please feel free to give us a call if you have any questions about any Rogue Racing products 855-757-6483.
 
D

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If I was rich I would have a trophy truck :) , I meant no offense that your kit was too expensive. I was referring to jumping straight to stage 4, that is a leap.
 

Rogue Racing

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Here's an option, BUY THE KIT IN STAGES. You will not spend your money in the wrong direction and have to sell everything. Start small and add on as budget/wife allows (or doesn't find out)

Front
1) UCA & Tierods
2) 3.0 coilovers
3) LCA with bypass pocket (at this point it still uses stock swaybar with Clevis bracket)
4) spindles
5) shock tower
6) bypass shock (at this time you will want to have your coilovers tuned)
7) sway bar
8) slot delete kit

Rear
1) bump stop kit & Deaver +2 or +3
2) shackle kit this helps lower up front cost of cantilever
3) cantilever & bypasses
4) if you choose to go sprung under, flip bracket, axle gusset kit & Deaver sprung under springs

5) sell Deaver +2or3 (yes this we can't help)

-Ryan
 
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jlatigo

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I'll be flying out tomorrow morning ready to pick it up and see what she can do. Pics, videos, and a write up on my honest opinion on the kit will follow. For comparison i've had in the past on my trucks the RPG stage 4+ set up, a Full ADD setup, and now this one.
 

ntm

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& performs better in the dirt than any other Raptor kit long travel or not. I'm not usually one to brag, but short of 4 linking your raptor; we truly believe this is the best Raptor kit out there long travel or not. We would be willing to put our kit up against any at a time trials

It's nice stuff, but I'd be really surprised if it kept up with any of the long travels through the bigger stuff. One can make up for less travel with tuning and overall damping capacity to a point, but all things being equal, more travel is better.
Short course style laps of course are going to demand different tuning and suspension capabilities than 2 to 3 foot whoops as far as the eye can see.
Not trying to take away from the obviously quality engineering and build here, just saying your stage 5 front end is going to be a more apples to apples comparison with the lt kits already on the market.
 

SilentShooter

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Your UCA's are the ones that clear with the factory Beadlock rims, correct? Anything else in the stage 4 kit that would possibly interfere with the factory wheels?

I finally sprung for the factory trim rings to make them true beadlocks so looking at front setups my goal is not to have to change wheels. The only wheel I truelly like over the factory are the Weld Rekon and not looking to spend $700 a wheel
 
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They have two types of UCA's. I have the adjustable ones and yes they work with stock beadlocks, hence the main reason I went with these. You can see them at Snoball if you like.

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Rogue Racing

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It's nice stuff, but I'd be really surprised if it kept up with any of the long travels through the bigger stuff. One can make up for less travel with tuning and overall damping capacity to a point, but all things being equal, more travel is better. Short course style laps of course are going to demand different tuning and suspension capabilities than 2 to 3 foot whoops as far as the eye can see. Not trying to take away from the obviously quality engineering and build here, just saying your stage 5 front end is going to be a more apples to apples comparison with the lt kits already on the market.

A longer arm will in fact travel more, I will not argue your point there. In theory a longer kit with more travel should work better. I've just got a few things we'd like to point about our kit and it's purpose. After the raptor run in March we talked with our potential customers and told them what Rogue Racing had in the plans for suspension. From stage 3 to five, or however you would like to label it. Stock width, versus longer arms. Most complained that current kits had "limited steering with a bypass" or poor road manners" a heavy steering wheel" most raptor owners wanted a few things, great road manners, 37 inch tires, a sway bar, full turning radius with a bypass shock, a quick easy install that a local shop could do without a welder, and the ability to push their truck to their driving limits without it breaking or being knocked out of alignment. Initially we wanted to build a bigger, wider, longer travel kit, but there are some factors most don't know. In the rear your up travel is limited by your frame. And your front is limited by the stock core support/inner fender well area. Most people for want to cut the entire front structure for more up travel. So stock with or plus 2 up travel is limited in the same place. So all the "extra travel" is at full droop unless you raise the ride height for a little more up and most customers don't want there trucks taller. I'd like to talk about the way bypass shocks work, they are stages so they are softer at full droop all the way down then they are at bump, bottomed out. They progressively get more stiff as they bottom out. We have tuned a lot of vehicles and what I'm getting out is if one truck has a plus 2 inch kit, and one has a stock kit. And they both have the same amount of up travel from ride height even the most experienced driver won't notice an additional 2 inches of down travel as the shocks are very soft at full extension.
We have a long travel kit in the works and it will have all of the features our current kit has listed above that no other kit offers at the time. We're confident others will start to include some features we showcased as standard at the SEMA show. But in our opinion after having both, this is the kit most raptor owners want.
-No welding, No waiting. Install and perform, no excuses or variables. A perfected, tuned, stock width kit. Your raptor is already 92 inches wide that's trophy truck width.
On the short course note, look at a pro lite they have 12 inches of travel and look at the beating they take, or a pro 2 that only has 18 front 20 in the rear. You can do a lot with a little. Tuning a short course truck is similar. A desert truck has the tendency to be loose and sloppy providing to much roll. A short course truck has to take huge landings, corner with stability and have good driving manners to battle side by side with 20 other trucks. We've spent a lot of time with both desert and short course trucks and there are things learned from both that go into our kit.
 

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