Rigid 20" Lightbar & Duallys - Installation Instructions

[MagicMtnDan]

I dont think those will work Dan. We need the low profile version. These sit up too high for the lid to close (I think).

You're right about the height. I was struggling just to find a pic of the type of fuse we need and that was the closest one.

I went to a local Ford dealer and they have 20's and 30's of that "block style" but they wanted umpteen dollars for each one. I was able to find the 30's (like the Raptor uses) in the auto parts store for a lot less.

They had zero (none) of the micro blade type fuses. The parts guy said they'd need to order them!

One thing I want to do is buy some replacement fuses just in case. Now I need to move on to consider a different option like adding an inline fuse (I see Jason's posted something about that so I'll check it out now).

 

[Xjrguy]

Check online for what you need fusewise to replace the higher amp stockers. I posted a link earlier (not sure if that particular outfit has what you need but it might be worth a phone call)

Remember any additional wiring/fuses you add introduces more points of failure. Could also rear it's ugly head if you have warranty work done on the electrical system for some reason and Ford sees additional fuses/etc (regardless of the competency of the job done on the wiring) Think worst case scenario.

 

[MagicMtnDan]

So what about this...make your own...get yourself a Self Tapping In-Line Fuse Holder

I like this solution but it seems to me this could be put on the hot lead going to the lights. Is it viable to leave the stock, higher rated fuse in the fuse block and put this inline fuse close to the lights? I'm admittedly not an electrical guy so I need to know the best, safest and cleanest solution.

What did/will others do?

 

[BigJ]

^^Yep! For sure.

The only concern I'd have with putting it 'down there' is weatherproofing; both the fuse/holder itself and your splices. My idea of going inside the fuse box is to keep it as weatherproof as possible, avoid cutting any wires, and to stick with the "one service point" idea... if something goes wrong you're not stuck hunting around at different failure points for the issue.

 

[MagicMtnDan]

Check online for what you need fusewise to replace the higher amp stockers. I posted a link earlier (not sure if that particular outfit has what you need but it might be worth a phone call)

Remember any additional wiring/fuses you add introduces more points of failure. Could also rear it's ugly head if you have warranty work done on the electrical system for some reason and Ford sees additional fuses/etc (regardless of the competency of the job done on the wiring) Think worst case scenario.

So, what are you going to do with your Duallys? You gonna tie them together and use Upfitter switch #4 rated at 10 amps?

 

[Xjrguy]

So, what are you going to do with your Duallys? You gonna tie them together and use Upfitter switch #4 rated at 10 amps?

Precisely. Both pairs of Dually's are going to run off switch #4, which is 10AMP which is the perfect rating for two pairs of LED kits. I work off the K.I.S.S. principle.

That leaves switch 3 free for my Margarita Blender/Macchiato Machine

 

[MagicMtnDan]

Precisely. Both pairs of Dually's are going to run off switch #4, which is 10AMP which is the perfect rating for two pairs of LED kits. I work off the K.I.S.S. principle.

That leaves switch 3 free for my Margarita Blender/Macchiato Machine

Does that mean you're using the 12v outlet in the cab for your Vacu-Jack? :mrgreen:

 

[Xjrguy]

Does that mean you're using the 12v outlet in the cab for your Vacu-Jack? :mrgreen:

No, that's reserved for the ***** magnet.

 

[MagicMtnDan]

"***** Magnet" :mrgreen:

Here's your next car - it's from Hello Kitty - you know, the Japanese company that makes everything with pink ******* on it

 

[MarkT]

I believe what we have is the Littelfuse "LOW PROFILE JCASE" design on upfitter circuits 1 and 2. I can't find any source that lists this design at a rating of less than 20 amps.

http://www.delcity.net/store/JCase®-Low-Profile/p_795641.a_1

I don't like the idea of an additional fuse holder for reason already mentioned... but I have a nice weatherproof ATO (blade type) fuse holder that I might add at the "glove box" connection point... best place in my opinion. The fuse could be checked/replaced by opening the existing fuse box access panel on the passenger side. (The added wire would have made it easier to connect the yellow and red too!)

One thing that concerns me about the stock cartridge fuses for this application is that they are really heavy duty... the specs say that the rating is "continuous current" with the "blow" current about twice as high. For example, the 30 amp fuse will take between 4 and 60 seconds to blow at 60 amps!

I might also consider moving my 20" bar to upfitter 3 or 4... a 10 amp fuse for those circuits is readily available...