Rigid 20" Lightbar & Duallys - Installation Instructions

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MagicMtnDan

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Some additional notes:

* I wasn't convinced that the 4 sheet metal screws will hold the Dually mounting plates so I got a couple of bolts, flat washers, lock washers and nuts (2 sets) and drilled another hole in each of the two mounting plates and the rectangular tube they're mounted to on the Raptor. If you do this make sure you do it close enough to the end of the rectangular tube so that you can get your fingers in there to stack the flat and lock washers on the bolt and then hold the nut while turning the bolt. Of course you'll only do this once you've installed the mounting plates using the 4 sheet metal screws for each mounting plate (supplied by Rigid).

* In the instructions Rigid "highly recommends" changing out the fuses in the Raptor's fuse panel when using their lights. You should use the above Rigid instructions to identify the fuses and their locations on the Raptor fuse panel so you know which types they are. And I suggest you locate a store with these fuses before you get your kit from Rigid. I visited 4 local auto supply stores yesterday and none of them had the fuses I need. And when I find them you can be sure I'll be buying some extras given how difficult it's been for me to find these fuses here (I didn't realize there are so many different fuse types and ratings for each type which means a well-stocked store will have to keep many different SKUs on display).
 
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MagicMtnDan

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* In the instructions Rigid "highly recommends" changing out the fuses in the Raptor's fuse panel when using their lights. You should use the above Rigid instructions to identify the fuses and their locations on the Raptor fuse panel so you know which types they are. And I suggest you locate a store with these fuses before you get your kit from Rigid. I visited 4 local auto supply stores yesterday and none of them had the fuses I need. And when I find them you can be sure I'll be buying some extras given how difficult it's been for me to find these fuses here (I didn't realize there are so many different fuse types and ratings for each type which means a well-stocked store will have to keep many different SKUs on display).

From the Rigid instructions:

Switch#______Fuse location_________Stock fuse____________Fuse needed for LED Light

Upfitter #1____Fuse location #18_____Stock fuse is 30amp____Rigid recommends 10amp for 20” E-Series
Upfitter #2____Fuse location # 19____Stock fuse is 30amp_____Rigid recommends 5amp for pair of Dually’s
Upfitter #3____ Fuse location # 44____Stock fuse is 15amp____Rigid recommends 5amp for pair of Dually’s
Upfitter #4____Fuse location # 28____Stock fuse is 10amp____Not used by Rigid lighting

Your lights will operate normally with the stock fuse configuration. We highly recommend changing to the proper fuse noted to protect your lights against potential damage from being over fused.




The Raptors use two types of fuses:

The Mini Blade fuses which look like this:

-494430301_20102705112441_100_100_1_1_0.png


I'm looking for 5 AMP versions of these per the Rigid installation instructions.

I found information about them online and they range from 2 AMP up to 30 AMPs.

http://en.foerch.com/product.aspx?p...bb6c01&g=8071e4f3-76ee-4a35-aadb-b4161b719a98
 
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MagicMtnDan

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Here's the 2nd type of fuse. I'm looking for 10 AMP versions of this (IIRC) to replace the 30A that the factory installs for Upfitter 1 (I believe that's correct).

truckauto_116.jpg
 

Xjrguy

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Why are you putting these LED lights on 30A switches 1 & 2?

Why not use switch 4 which is already 10 amp? (A pair of dually lights should be on a 5Amp fusible line per Rigid, and aren't you installing two pairs = 10Amp?)

The 20 inch LED bar draws 6 amps FYI.
 
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MagicMtnDan

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I'm following their instructions and I want the 20" lightbar on switch #1. I'm putting the Duallys on separate switches (2 & 3). I'd rather (for now) have them on two switches.
 

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Here's the 2nd type of fuse. I'm looking for 10 AMP versions of this (IIRC) to replace the 30A that the factory installs for Upfitter 1 (I believe that's correct).

truckauto_116.jpg
I dont think those will work Dan. We need the low profile version. These sit up too high for the lid to close (I think).
 

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From the other thread:

For what its worth, my brief research into this shows that these are "Low-Profile FMX Female Maxi Fuses", made by Cooper Bussmann. And, unfortunately, the lowest they go is 20A.

http://www.cooperbussmann.com/SearchResults.aspx?search=fmx&type=Omni

So what about this, with a couple of female spade connectors on either end? http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3150583#
pRS1C-4866419w345.jpg


Or make your own:
1) Get yourself a Self Tapping In-Line Fuse Holder: http://www.oznium.com/self-tap-in-fuse-holder
2998.jpg

2) Get yourself a 10A blade-type fuse: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103773
pRS1C-2266420w345.jpg


3) A couple of female spade connectors: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103499
pRS1C-2266039w345.jpg


4) A loop of 16 or 18 ga wire.

Put it all together and you've got this (in principal)
1.jpg

2.jpg

Those female spades will slip over the male spades in the fuse box, where the stock FMX fuse used to go. Eyeballing it looks to me like there's plenty of room to do this right without looking hacked.
 
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