Raptor buy decisions - Help

[jgwalt27]

Hey all,
Looking to move into the raptor community with a potential upcoming buy, and hoping for some input from the current owners. I have 2 private sale truck options I am currently looking at, and having a hard time deciding. Below is the good bad and ugly:

Option 1: 2017 raptor, 51k miles, asking price is $54k
Good: 802a package, almost completely optioned out (moonroof, head front/back/wheel, adapt cruise, lane assist, etc). Comes with a remaining 3yr ext drivetrain warranty. The autocheck report came back clean and seems like most service was done at ford dealer.
Bad: upon look in person, has scratches on all 4 fenders. Not terrible, but not buffable. Tires need replacement right away(owner willing to negotiate price for this), and seemed to have a hard shift (which I know is common for the pre may 18 models with reflash available)

Option 2: 2019 raptor, 40k miles, asking price 63k
Good: 802a, good options. seems to be in good condition cosmetically, 2yrs newer, low miles, exceeds the hard shift trans issues.
Bad: tires have maybe 10 months left on them
Unsure: Cobb stage 2 tuned for more than half its life. Not sure if this has thrown any flags warranty wise with ford.

I can’t tell if my concerns of the 2017 warrant a $10k difference in price or not. Part of me has a hard time dropping $50k+ on a car that is scratched up. Just looking for thoughts, questions, concerns I haven’t thought of

 

[jgwalt27]

Include in option 2 is:
-Cobb stage 2 power pack
-AMS turbo inlets
-borla exhaust
-2.5” ready lift

 

[jgwalt27]

Another contributing factor to making this decision hard is the car market. Obviously everything is at a market high right now. We are due for a correction when supply catches up + gas prices aren’t friendly to truck values

 

[smurfslayer]

what’s your use case?

If you need the warranty, negotiate on the ’17. If it’s going to be a total recreation only vehicle, make the newer truck your primary IF you’re ok with the lift, which is totally unnecessary and often detrimental to suspension performance on these trucks.

 

[jgwalt27]

what’s your use case?

If you need the warranty, negotiate on the ’17. If it’s going to be a total recreation only vehicle, make the newer truck your primary IF you’re ok with the lift, which is totally unnecessary and often detrimental to suspension performance on these trucks.

Thanks for the feedback Smurf. Use case is just a cool daily and pickup. I am leaning the 17 route as well. Do you have any background with the hard shifting issues?

Thanks

 

[smurfslayer]

I’ve never had the ubiquitous “hard shift” issue. My truck was held back as part of a random QA for the first ’17’s released to the public, with 4 pages of stuff they fixed. I posted that list here back in ’17.

I have had some inarticulate shifts that I’ve been able to reproduce by getting on the gas, letting off -just- as the transmission shifts up. It sounds bad, and definitely clunks, but is otherwise harmless.

I think that the harsh shifting needs to be taken with a grain of salt. First, I prefer shifts to be positive and felt. 2nd, I think a lot of former ‘Euro-trash’ drivers are accustomed to the seamless feel shifting common to luxury sport sedans and such. The Raptor sometimes doesn’t meet these folks “high standards” for vehicles in many ways, and they look for any little thing to make themselves angry about it. They spin themselves into a frenzy and post about it.
3rd, there are in the final analysis some trucks that benefit from reprogramming and even some more that have had transmission parts replaced to address the problems.

I think this issue is manifested in part throttle conditions when you would not expect it, whereas under heavy throttle you may well want a firm, positive shift.

My biggest issue with the shifting is the lack of an actual normal drive mode; it’s more closely aligned with the “eco” mode on the standard F150 and it’s extremely lazy. It jumps to 10th gear by 42mph, taching a lackadaisical 1100-1150 rpms. Nailing the throttle at this speed seems to make the truck go into a cycle of ‘do you really want to go fast? yes, are you sure? well ok, let me downshift 1x Not enough? oh alright, I’ll shift out of overdrive ‘ by that time, you’re going maybe 48-50 and it won’t downshift past 7th ; the top non overdrive gear. Another manifestation if you’re going at highway merge ramp speed - 45-50 and floor it, the original programming would have the truck max out the boost, but hold 10th gear. that is S L O O O O W W W W

I had a reprogram done that made the truck much more willing to downshift which does help. It doesn’t make ’normal’ less like eco, but, it does at least make it more willing to downshift instead of just pouring on boost.

Sport mode, of course, takes care of that concern.

 

[dspangler]

Hey all,
Looking to move into the raptor community with a potential upcoming buy, and hoping for some input from the current owners. I have 2 private sale truck options I am currently looking at, and having a hard time deciding. Below is the good bad and ugly:

Option 1: 2017 raptor, 51k miles, asking price is $54k
Good: 802a package, almost completely optioned out (moonroof, head front/back/wheel, adapt cruise, lane assist, etc). Comes with a remaining 3yr ext drivetrain warranty. The autocheck report came back clean and seems like most service was done at ford dealer.
Bad: upon look in person, has scratches on all 4 fenders. Not terrible, but not buffable. Tires need replacement right away(owner willing to negotiate price for this), and seemed to have a hard shift (which I know is common for the pre may 18 models with reflash available)

Option 2: 2019 raptor, 40k miles, asking price 63k
Good: 802a, good options. seems to be in good condition cosmetically, 2yrs newer, low miles, exceeds the hard shift trans issues.
Bad: tires have maybe 10 months left on them
Unsure: Cobb stage 2 tuned for more than half its life. Not sure if this has thrown any flags warranty wise with ford.

I can’t tell if my concerns of the 2017 warrant a $10k difference in price or not. Part of me has a hard time dropping $50k+ on a car that is scratched up. Just looking for thoughts, questions, concerns I haven’t thought of

You will want to look at the plastic oil pan on the 17 for cracks and leaks. The mid-2018+ went back to metal due to the plastic pan performance.
Both trucks have the questionable cam phasers, so check history on each truck. Make sure you do your homework on that cam phaser issue, and what costs are covered, and what are not.

 

[jchap711]

I’m selling my 2019 if you’re interested. Can work out a price. I’ve got an ad up for it.

 

[jgwalt27]

I’m selling my 2019 if you’re interested. Can work out a price. I’ve got an ad up for it.

Jchap: just checked out your for sale add. Beautiful truck all around. If I had the budget for it, I would definitely be interested. Unfortunately, based on the 2 options in my original post, I am near top of budget at the 63k. Looks like you have yours up at $75k.

 

[Frank N]

I would never consider a raptor that has been lifted.