Radar detector

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

2014RubyRed

FRF Addict
Joined
Jan 11, 2015
Posts
8,890
Reaction score
7,045
Location
Galesburg, IL
My V1 is the shit! It was wearing me out with all the collision avoidance radar setting it off on a trip, so I called Valentine. Over the phone, the tech walked me through reprogramming it to ignore those particular signal waves. It was most common on the interstate with all the big rigs running these systems.

Anyway, I love the thing now. The directional arrows are great for telling you where the signal is coming from. They have phenomenal range, especially on the interstate, and I have yet to get a ticket when it is on. And I drive a lot - 54k on my 2014 and that doesn't count several thousand miles+ logged on the wife's SUV during vacations. Just my $.02.
 

Taxman

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Posts
385
Reaction score
307
Location
Raleigh, NC
OK. I found my multi-meter and tested the leads. On my 2014 rear-view mirror molex plug, pin # 1 is 12V+ (ignition) and is a green wire with a purple stripe. Pine # 4 is ground and is a black wire.

When I opened my mirror tap, the ground pin was bent from the package. I carefully bent it back and it cracked off the second I touched it. I guess I have to contact Mike and have him replace it or get a new one. I guess I'll use the 12V adapter for now.

The BlendMount looks slick and is an awesome way to mount the radar detector. Way better and more solid than suction cups or visor mounts. I just wished my mirror tap worked. I may try to solder the leads directly to the wires. Not sure yet...
 

Taxman

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Posts
385
Reaction score
307
Location
Raleigh, NC
They are sending me a new mirror tap, but I ended up removing both pins from the original Mirror Tap and splicing the leads to the ground and 12V+ (Green/purple) wires using some solder and self healing electrical tape to insulate it. I cut a slit into the plastic sheath that covers the wire bundle going to the mirror and spliced into the wires about 3 inches from the molex plug. I zip tied the cables to the bundle to prevent any tugging and zip tied the sheath where I cut the slit. Looks great and works like a charm!

15%252520-%2525201.jpg
 

2014RubyRed

FRF Addict
Joined
Jan 11, 2015
Posts
8,890
Reaction score
7,045
Location
Galesburg, IL
They are sending me a new mirror tap, but I ended up removing both pins from the original Mirror Tap and splicing the leads to the ground and 12V+ (Green/purple) wires using some solder and self healing electrical tape to insulate it. I cut a slit into the plastic sheath that covers the wire bundle going to the mirror and spliced into the wires about 3 inches from the molex plug. I zip tied the cables to the bundle to prevent any tugging and zip tied the sheath where I cut the slit. Looks great and works like a charm!

15%252520-%2525201.jpg

I direct wired both of mine. The exact thing happened to mine (on both installations!). I wish they would improve the material used on those little pins.

Anyway, your's looks great!!!

Nothing better than getting that damn curly cord out of the view - huh?
 

Taxman

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Posts
385
Reaction score
307
Location
Raleigh, NC
I direct wired both of mine. The exact thing happened to mine (on both installations!). I wish they would improve the material used on those little pins.

Anyway, your's looks great!!!

Nothing better than getting that damn curly cord out of the view - huh?

The pin on the original mirror tap I received was already bent. When I tried to straighten it, that's when it broke off. I figured if they were that fragile, I would have the same problem with the second one, so I figured I would solder it and make a permanent connection. Really easy actually. Once you disconnect the mirror plug, there's plenty of wire to work with and it was really easy to do. I put a large towel on my dash and console just in case any solder got on there, but it was easier than I thought. I used the ultra-thin lead-free rosin-core solder and it worked like a charm. The 3M self-healing electrical tape is a little thick for such a thin wire, but you can't tell once the sheathing is pulled over it.

Thanks. I think it looks great also. The mount is amazingly sturdy and wiggle-free.
 

Nick@Apollo-Optics

Supporting Vendor
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Apr 3, 2011
Posts
7,475
Reaction score
3,125
Location
Houston, TX
@Taxman,

Would you be willing to sell your new Mirror Tap when it comes in? I've been looking at getting a Mirror Tap and mount for my V1. I'm tired of the 12v plug/cord.
 

Nick@Apollo-Optics

Supporting Vendor
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Apr 3, 2011
Posts
7,475
Reaction score
3,125
Location
Houston, TX
I just received the package this morning, but I was asked to return the old one - they even included a return label. I was going to just return the new one with a note explaining that I soldered the old one. I guess you can just pay Mark for it and I could mail it to you, but they sent it to me in two days priority. I would just buy a new one from Mark at BlendMount. He'll probably get it out to you faster than I would be able to.

Fair enough. Thanks!
 

Gilligan

Active Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2013
Posts
75
Reaction score
4
They are sending me a new mirror tap, but I ended up removing both pins from the original Mirror Tap and splicing the leads to the ground and 12V+ (Green/purple) wires using some solder and self healing electrical tape to insulate it. I cut a slit into the plastic sheath that covers the wire bundle going to the mirror and spliced into the wires about 3 inches from the molex plug. I zip tied the cables to the bundle to prevent any tugging and zip tied the sheath where I cut the slit. Looks great and works like a charm!

15%252520-%2525201.jpg

would you be able to post a direct link to the detector you bought?
 
Top