Post stereo install pics

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gijosh28

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So here a couple pictures from my install, but they are at night. The install looks a lot better in the daylight. I'll have to get some pictures during the daytime tomorrow. This was completed about two months ago, but it hasn't worked right until yesterday. Turns out I had a bad NAV-TV piece. They sent me a new one and about half the problems are solved. I will switch from the Toslink fiber to the RCAs (between the NAV-TV and the DM-608) and retune it all next weekend. But for now at least the system has stopped shutting off.
 
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gijosh28

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The System:

Focal K2 components up front (2-ohm).
Focal K2 Coaxials in the rear (4-ohm).
Nav-TV Zen DSP A2B
Audio Control DM-608
Audio Control LC-4.800
Skar RP 2000.1
4x 8" Kicker L7s in a sealed enclosure
 

18LeadfootNNJ

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The shop is almost 8 hours away. Unfortunately the city I live in, didn't have a shop I trusted. They are working with me to try to figure it out. They are shipping me some new cables that should fit onto my amp rack and move the power on the zen and the DM.

That said, I just had some really strange stuff happen. I took a jumper cable out to the truck and ran it to the negative terminal on the battery to do some resistance testing between the battery and the hardware. First of all, does anyone know what the black thing on the negative battery terminal is. I've attached two pictures of my negative terminal. Now here's where it gets nuts. If I disconnect the negative 1/0 cables from the battery, I get 0 ohms of resistance between the terminal at the battery (disconnected) and the negative allen screw on the amps. If I reconnect the 1/0 cables to the battery I get anywhere between 5ohms and 11 ohms. This is true of both the ground run to the frame and the ground run to the factory ground. Why would connecting it to the battery make my negatives go to 5-11ohms of resistance?


Your ohm meter is reading all the electronics when you put them back on the battery and test across


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Otis857

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I’ll have a whole album detailing my install in about a month. But here are a couple sneak peeks. (I did not fabricate the a-pillars) Still fabricating other pieces, waiting on more sound deadening and one more amp! Still have a long road ahead. Haven’t even begun running wires.

Some of the components:
3 x SI MK V 12" subs
Morel Mids and highs- 3 way active front stage
3 x AudioControl amps
Helix DSP Pro MK2
Helix Director
Custom 1/4" ABS amp rack
Custom 5/8" MDF box
SMD digital fuse block and ground block
NAVTV Zen a2b to tie it all together

It's gonna be fun!

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Thats an incredible system. Im looking forward to seeing the whole install album. Curious to see your sub box build pics.
Very nice fab work on the mid/tweeter pods too. Did you do the fab work?
Question, isnt 3 SI MK V's a bit of overkill?
 

dhmcfadin

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I didn’t build the pods. Mobile Toys in College Station built them.

Depending on how you listen to music, 10 subs might not be overkill. I’m was going for strictly SQ and high fidelity. I wanted to have accurate and precise bass at all listening volumes as I don’t blast my stereo every time I’m in the truck. These subs don’t get incredibly loud but they get low and nice and smooth. They can play upwards of 300 hz so they are petty versatile.

Here the box build. https://imgur.com/a/DfSMY3r I’ve since put taller risers on the box.
 

Otis857

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Nice box build. Im running 2 shallow 10's under my back seat now for SQ as well. I used the area under the seat where the factory sub was to install my 2 Alpine PDX amps. I picked up a SI BM Mk IV off Diyma before the Mk V's came out, but it was just too big for an under seat sub in a S Cab. It would have required a lot of custom fiberglass work to shoehorn it in, and I suppose it could be done but I just wasnt up to it at the time. Maybe down the road. I would have loved to mount the amps behind the rear seat as well, just not an option on my smaller cab.
 
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