Post stereo install pics

[dhmcfadin]

Looks really good!

Thanks man.


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[bayarearaptornut]

So good bro! What did you dampen with on the back wall?

 

[dhmcfadin]

So good bro! What did you dampen with on the back wall?

I’m using Second Skin Damplifier Pro on all interior panels. In between the door panels and on the backside of the amp rack, I am using Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro, and behind each door speaker I am using a Second Skin Speaker Tweaker.


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[gijosh28]

I will try to get some install pictures up from my truck in the next few days. It came out pretty nice, but I am tracking down a ground problem right now.

 

[dhmcfadin]

I will try to get some install pictures up from my truck in the next few days. It came out pretty nice, but I am tracking down a ground problem right now.

Mind if I ask. What are your ground problems? Where are you grounding to?


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[gijosh28]

1/0 from amps to frame. Then there is a 1/0 ground run from the battery to the frame and from the battery to the factory body ground.

I have the NAVTV going fiber to the Audio Control DM-608. Then RCA from the DM-608 to an LC4.800 and a Skar RP2000.1. There are a bunch of problems with the NAVTV piece, but the biggest one is that when I turn the volume up to 25 the whole thing shuts off comes backs on a second later for about a half second, and then shuts off again, and I get no sound until I reseat the fiber at the NAVTV. I switched the NAVTV to DM-608 connection to RCA, and the same thing happens, but it comes back. I don't need to unplug and re-plug the RCAs like I do the fiber. If I play the stereo at 21 to 24, it takes a little while before it shuts off, but at 25 it is instant. I also have a hiss at the tweeters, that doesn't change with volume. It is just always there. The NAVTV piece has all kinds of weird problems too, like the chimes. Sometimes they come out of the IPC cluster, and sometimes they come out of the stereo. No rhyme or reason as to when or why. The strangest bug is if I use WAZE (through Android Auto) to navigate to something, and I am listening to Pandora or Spotify on AA it works just fine. If I use WAZE, and I listen to Sirius Satellite radio, when the WAZE tries to give me navigation prompts it will say the distance and nothing else. For example, it will say, "In 500 feet..." and nothing else.

I think I have the main problem narrowed down to the Audio Control DM-608. I think that is where the ground issue is, because I tried running front pair of RCAs directly to the LC4.800 and it played at 25 without issue. Also there was no hiss when I bypassed the DM-608.

I just need time to go run it all down. NAVTV is suggesting that I need to run the 1/0 ground all the way back to the battery. I'm not sure what I think about that. The frame is not aluminum. When I get more time I will check resistance between everything and the negative terminal. I might just have a bad DM-608 too. More to follow.

 

[dhmcfadin]

You do not need to run a 1/0 ground all the way from the battery. Steel is steel and a frame ground will work fine. Also, the fact that when you remove the DM 608, your hissing stops and audio doesn’t cut out, tells me the problem is with the AudioControl dsp. How are you powering the dsp? And from what power source?

Also, when was the last time you updated your NavTV unit?

I think the reason you are having problems with chimes and prompts is that the truck is having trouble sensing a load from the zenA2b because the AudioControl dsp is experiencing a problem. When the NavTV senses that there is no load from the dsp, it tells the truck there are no speakers hooked up and to play chimes through the ipc. When the truck detects an inadequate load, it will automatically divert the signal back to the ipc for safety reasons. The AudioControl dsps have been known to create ground loop issues. Not super common but there are reports. It’s very probable you have a bad unit.


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[gijosh28]

I do not need to run a 1/0 ground all the way from the battery. Steel is steel and a frame ground will work fine. Also, the fact that when you remove the DM 608, your hissing stops and audio doesn’t cut out, tells me the problem is with the AudioControl dsp. How are you powering the dsp? And from what power source?

Also, when was the last time you updated your NavTV unit?


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I didn't do this install myself. I debated back and forth on it, and finally decided to have a reputable shop do it. The shop that did the install updated the NAVTV. I have not traced where the DM-608 is powered from or grounded to yet. The NAVTV is grounded to the same place as the amps though. He had it grounded to the harness, but we got some alternator whine from that, so he moved it to the amp ground. The install is super clean and everything is very tucked away. Unfortunately, while that makes everything look really nice, it also makes it hard to trace things down, and I have been pretty busy as of late.

 

[dhmcfadin]

I didn't do this install myself. I debated back and forth on it, and finally decided to have a reputable shop do it. The shop that did the install updated the NAVTV. I have not traced where the DM-608 is powered from or grounded to yet. The NAVTV is grounded to the same place as the amps though. He had it grounded to the harness, but we got some alternator whine from that, so he moved it to the amp ground. The install is super clean and everything is very tucked away. Unfortunately, while that makes everything look really nice, it also makes it hard to trace things down, and I have been pretty busy as of late.

I think part of the issue is the way the NavTV is powered. While you had alternator whine, I doubt the shop tried to also check the power source of the dsp. Navtv specifically states in the installation instructions what power and ground wire to tap into. Also, the AudioControl dsp should ideally be hooked up to the same power source as the NavTV unit. It does not pull hardly any amperage and the power wiring from the b&o harness is more than capable of handling both loads.

Lastly, you need to make sure that the remote wire from the NavTV unit is being used for the dsp and amp. If these units are using different remote sources, that could cause interference and potential loss of audio.


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---------- Post added at 09:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:49 AM ----------

I didn't do this install myself. I debated back and forth on it, and finally decided to have a reputable shop do it. The shop that did the install updated the NAVTV. I have not traced where the DM-608 is powered from or grounded to yet. The NAVTV is grounded to the same place as the amps though. He had it grounded to the harness, but we got some alternator whine from that, so he moved it to the amp ground. The install is super clean and everything is very tucked away. Unfortunately, while that makes everything look really nice, it also makes it hard to trace things down, and I have been pretty busy as of late.

How long ago did you do the install? Because there was updates released within the last 15-20 days or so.


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[gijosh28]

I think part of the issue is the way the NavTV is powered. While you had alternator whine, I doubt the shop tried to also check the power source of the dsp. Navtv specifically states in the installation instructions what power and ground wire to tap into. Also, the AudioControl dsp should ideally be hooked up to the same power source as the NavTV unit. It does not pull hardly any amperage and the power wiring from the b&o harness is more than capable of handling both loads.

Lastly, you need to make sure that the remote wire from the NavTV unit is being used for the dsp and amp. If these units are using different remote sources, that could cause interference and potential loss of audio.


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---------- Post added at 09:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:49 AM ----------





How long ago did you do the install? Because there was updates released within the last 15-20 days or so.


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Last week.