Post stereo install pics

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dhmcfadin

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Last week.



Good deal. Then yeah, you need to trace the power and ground to both the dsp and NavTV. Power the navtv like it states in the instruction manual and also power the dsp off that same power source.


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gijosh28

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I think part of the issue is the way the NavTV is powered. While you had alternator whine, I doubt the shop tried to also check the power source of the dsp. Navtv specifically states in the installation instructions what power and ground wire to tap into. Also, the AudioControl dsp should ideally be hooked up to the same power source as the NavTV unit. It does not pull hardly any amperage and the power wiring from the b&o harness is more than capable of handling both loads.

Lastly, you need to make sure that the remote wire from the NavTV unit is being used for the dsp and amp. If these units are using different remote sources, that could cause interference and potential loss of audio.


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---------- Post added at 09:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:49 AM ----------





How long ago did you do the install? Because there was updates released within the last 15-20 days or so.


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I am pretty sure the remotes are run from the NAVTV. I don't think the DM is powered off the same line as the NAVTV though. I will have to check all this. One other thing I was concerned about was whether they used a relay for the remote turn on, or wired straight into the amps from the remote turn on.
 

dhmcfadin

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I am pretty sure the remotes are run from the NAVTV. I don't think the DM is powered off the same line as the NAVTV though. I will have to check all this. One other thing I was concerned about was whether they used a relay for the remote turn on, or wired straight into the amps from the remote turn on.



The proper procedure would be to daisy chain. Start with the NavTV remote wire to the dsp, the dsp has both input and output remotes. From the dsp, you go the amps.


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gijosh28

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So I called the shop, and he said that everything is powered from the same power and grounded on the same ground. He said when we had the alternator whine, he had the DM and the NAVTV powered and grounded through the B&O harness.

Josh
 

dhmcfadin

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The NAVTV turns on the DM and the DM turns on the two amps.



Ok that is correct!


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---------- Post added at 01:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:13 PM ----------

So when they had the NavTV unit wired to the factory harness. Did they disconnect the dsp to see if the alt whine went away?


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gijosh28

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No. He took a jumper wire and surface ran it to the ground and the whine went away. Then he made the change permanent.
 

cayenne

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I'm just going to throw this out there, I'm as bad as you are apparently troubleshooting for others. I like to keep things within my control.

BUT... You paid a shop to do it, go take it to them and ask them to figure it out. You probably paid them good money to do the install, now is when they earn their keep. It isn't worth you stressing and troubleshooting it for them. Just my 2 cents!
 
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gijosh28

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I'm just going to throw this out there, I'm as bad as you are apparently troubleshooting for others. I like to keep things within my control.

BUT... You paid a shop to do it, go take it to them and ask them to figure it out. You probably paid them good money to do the install, now is when they earn their keep. It isn't worth you stressing and troubleshooting it for them. Just my 2 cents!

The shop is almost 8 hours away. Unfortunately the city I live in, didn't have a shop I trusted. They are working with me to try to figure it out. They are shipping me some new cables that should fit onto my amp rack and move the power on the zen and the DM.

That said, I just had some really strange stuff happen. I took a jumper cable out to the truck and ran it to the negative terminal on the battery to do some resistance testing between the battery and the hardware. First of all, does anyone know what the black thing on the negative battery terminal is. I've attached two pictures of my negative terminal. Now here's where it gets nuts. If I disconnect the negative 1/0 cables from the battery, I get 0 ohms of resistance between the terminal at the battery (disconnected) and the negative allen screw on the amps. If I reconnect the 1/0 cables to the battery I get anywhere between 5ohms and 11 ohms. This is true of both the ground run to the frame and the ground run to the factory ground. Why would connecting it to the battery make my negatives go to 5-11ohms of resistance?
 

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gijosh28

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We should move this over to f150 forums. I can't be the only one having these problems.

---------- Post added at 09:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:54 PM ----------

I seem to remember audio controls had an internal jumper for ground isolation, or something like that. I wonder if my DM has that jumper set or something.
 
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