POSS GEN 1 Owner Roush stage 2

[GEN_ONE]

Awesome feedback and your time to write. All solid points and if I purchase will look into all of them. I confirmed with dealer and there is no paperwork on the SC other than the install was done at a FORD dealer in florida. I just got the truck down to 36k so I think it’s a good deal and truck looks clean. The raptor will not be my daily since I have my trusty 4runner I’ve been driving for 8 years now and for some reason can’t seem to sell it to upgrade to a newer truck. I’ve always loved the GEN 1’s since day one but those GEN 2’s are really nice. And right now people can pick up used ones with low miles in high 40-low 50k range fully equipped.

 

[GEN_ONE]

One more question? How do you all think the truck will do when driving long distance. I drive to Texas at least twice a year. Ty!!

 

[Canuck714]

$36k is F'N cheap....

As you can see by the mileage on mine, we use it all the time for family trips. Its super comfy, rides nice, has tons of power and lots of room front and back..

 

[BoostedToy]

2013 Roush here. 122k, 5w30 with frequent oil changes. Also, I went with a VMP tune and eliminated one of the idler pulleys that is in the 2013 kit configuration. If I was in 4wd, upon 1st to 2nd shift, it would either 1) jump the belt or 2) break the belt tensioner arm in half. After several calls to vendors, including Roush (who said they were unaware of any of these types of issues and suggested purchasing their FEAD guard), it was near consensus that the transmission tune from Roush was a likely culprit. Too much load and a harsh shift at relatively low speeds. Others mentioned the extra ribbed idler pulley in the 2013 setup. I got the tune from VMP and removed that pulley. No issues since. That is the only reliability issue that the truck had. It’s been great!

 

[John813]

One more question? How do you all think the truck will do when driving long distance. I drive to Texas at least twice a year. Ty!!

No issues what so ever. Unless you are really pushing in terms of WOT runs back to back to back you may hear some detonation/pulled timing.

 

[BoostedToy]

I’ve driven mine on several long drives with no issues. For peace of mind, you could keep a spare serpentine belt on hand. These TVS blowers are extremely reliable. If you see a failure, it will likely be the belt (typically can hear it coming, but also can keep on top with a visual inspection) or potentially an idler pulley over time (increased load versus non-blower setup). With 122k, the truck proves to be very reliable

 

[Canuck714]

When I first got mine I had the belt blow off a couple times. Got a JDM tune and ran a slightly smaller belt K061251HD (the green one) and have never had it happen again.
I always carry a spare belt just in case.

 

[BoostedToy]

Removed the idler next to the power steering pump. Went through three of these carnage events before the tune and idler pulley removal.

 

[Blu Bug]

Looks clean....

I just rolled 113,000 miles on my Roush, still running strong and mine gets run hard. I have had zero engine issues, but have torn up a transmission and two rear ends!! Converter disintegrated at 80,000 miles. On the Diff...One was Fords fault @ 12,000 miles, not sure what caused the gaulling on the spider cross shafts on the second 113,000. Good reason to believe high HP and open diff when on the street created to much heat.

Anyway, there are a few things that you will want to look into to make sure that you have a long, happy life with yours.

1. Spark Plugs. Regardless of what tune is in the truck, the factory plug is the WRONG heat range. You will want to step it down. Most of us run the NGK 6510 (LTR7-IX-11)

2. Tune. The Roush tune uses fuel to control heat/detonation in the motor. This is dangerous and terrible on fuel. It also makes the drivability not so desirable. I am a big fan of JDM for the Roush. Contact @JimIII@JDM for a set up.

3. Blower Belt. You can run a Gates extreme duty (green) K061251HD. Its a 1/4 inch shorter than the Roush belt and will not slip off. You do not nead the FEAD shield that Roush sold to prevent the belt from flying off. The belt issues were mostly from extremem load/unload situations like wheel hop.

4. Wheel Hop... I run Deaver +3 rear springs. This stopped wheel hop and I run off road quite a bit so made sense. If you plan to stay on the street, look into a traction bar of some sort.

5. Fuel. Run good fuel!!! I have always run Shell 93. Its always fresh, never had a fuel issue and my truck seems to like it. Not sure how she knows, but my truck does not like Costco or Valero Super.. It will run like shit, feel slower and get worse mileage. Something in it, does not like my truck.

6. Clean air and oil .. Your truck will thank you! I have been on 5/30 for a while. I know I know the oil cap and manual say 5/20. With the added pressure that a blower puts on the crank, i would rather have a little heavier oil in it. I change mine way too often, but after a hard play day, she deserves it. Also, if you are in a dryer climate, consider moving to a dry filter element. They screen a finer particle of dirt than the oiled K&N, and wont dirty up your MAF meter either.

Just a couple things to ponder... Good luck and have fun.

Thank you. Just got a 2013 Roush and found your post looking for info on air filters. Do you have a suggestion on the dry filter or did you find one by size?

 

[Canuck714]

Thank you. Just got a 2013 Roush and found your post looking for info on air filters. Do you have a suggestion on the dry filter or did you find one by size?

I found it by size. Its a little different than the K&N and a tighter fit on the sealing flange but works well. I think it was a dry filter from S&B maybe