Overheating after SVC intercooler?

[GCATX]

What you are seeing behind your license plate is your stock IC and shutters. Once you move to a FMIC, the stock IC and shutters are removed. So when air passes through the vents above the OP winch, the air will keep moving to what is behind the stock IC and shutters—the air will not curve up and go into the FMIC and radiator.

As @nikhsub1 noted, your license plate is restricting a lot of air flow to your IC. Given that you are in Texas, I imagine your truck battles heat soaking regularly and is not running near its full potential. Do you run premium gas?

Yes, 93 since day one, except the time my wife put 87 in it.
Yes, I know I'm not getting the best flow, but gotta have a frt plate here and I don't care for the way it looks off to the side. It reminds me of an old volkswagen for some reason. Maybe I'll put some speed holes in the plate.

 

[Rednose]

No. He had the mishimoto tank, hose blew off and he overheated his engine 100 miles from anywhere. The mishimoto tank has some bad hose connection points. I either read that in this thread or another one where he talked about it but I’ve seen a few others state the same. I’m getting my list together, I want to make sure I don’t have heat issues after Intercooler swap.


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Thanks for the clarification I do appreciate it.

 

[nikhsub1]

Function over form man. The plate kills the truck. Even the manual says to remove it with heavy use.

 

[GCATX]

Function over form man. The plate kills the truck. Even the manual says to remove it with heavy use.

What is this manual you speak of?
If I use it heavily, I will remove it. I will poke around for other options.

 

[nikhsub1]

What is this manual you speak of?
If I use it heavily, I will remove it. I will poke around for other options.

RTFM? It is in the manual that comes with the truck.

 

[GCATX]

RTFM? It is in the manual that comes with the truck.

It was a joke.

 

[nikhsub1]

Well with some of the people around here it's hard to tell. Sometimes the stupid is strong.

 

[sixshooter_45]

The vent openings above the winch are open and allow airflow. But it doesn’t really matter because the airflow through those vents will not go up into the radiator.

It could with an aluminum plate attached below the those openings and bent upwards at an appropriate angle.

Not sure how well that would help though.

 

[1BAD454SSv2]

First of all, all FMICs for this truck are nowhere near 3.5 inches thick. The IC that I have which is full race, the fin density is not very dense - this is a good thing for airflow through the unit. The air out of the IC is not nearly as hot as you guys think. Like I've said before in this thread and other places stacking heat exchangers is not as detrimental as a lot of you think, many OEMs do this from the factory with no issue..

Full Race pic below guesstimate the tubes are 3/8" wide and 19 tubes that 7 inches of blockage if they were stacked together. , plus end tanks block air. So rough sq inch guesstimate is 14 sq inches of blockage. like a piece of 14" X 14" inch piece of card board over you radiator. I'm sure the FR intercooler is very eff at lowering boost temps , but that heat has to go somewhere . SVC has 17 rows and smaller end tanks than FR . Now add A/C condenser heat , by time air hits radiator its way hotter than ambient . In AZ airflow is everything 4 months out of the year. Other than oem diesels using stacked intercoolers their surface area is huge , most ford Hi perf boosted vehicles mount intercooler or heat exchanger out of path of radiator , my 02 Lightning mounted low , cobras are low, Raptor low . So it looks like you have to buy a FR radiator that is bigger to keep your coolant temps down, if you have a front mount intercooler.

 

[nikhsub1]

My temps are no issue ever. I do run a 170 thermostat and rarely see anything over 190.


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