Old Man Build

[Nex]

Thanks for making me happy I had the dumb blue ones.

 

[Old-Raptor-guy]

I highly recommend owners get one of these. My biggest torque wrench goes to 350lbs, lower shock bolt is 406. I only had to input 135 ftlbs.

 

[Old-Raptor-guy]

Front done with what I could I went home after 8ish hours (drove another truck home). I did remove the front sway bar. the Eclick will control roll it says and that bar is almost the same size as my 2002 PSD. It is huge, having off road that truck for 20 years I disconnected it most the time off road and it made a big difference. Might help more on a solid axle. so we will see. I can always reinstall.

 

[Old-Raptor-guy]

Came back the next day and installed the deaver springs, +4hd and RPG extended shackles. I had plans to do more but ran out of steam. The e-click doesn't come with printed instructions, they are online and with the front coils being MIA I just felt I would go home as study the instructions. I didn't remove the rear shocks because I am still waiting on the rear cantilever kit.

I did, drive it about a mile and then put it on our 4 post lift so I could torque everything with weight on it. drive modes are gone with front coils missing.

new suspension measurements are 7.5" in the front (gain of 2.5, 1.5 over spec) rear 11.25" (a gain of 4+, little of 2 inches over spec) it is definitely rear high, which I don't mind and I have a chase rack coming and I normally carry a good amount of gear with me so I will run it, let everything settle and then make adjustments in a few months.

 

[Nex]

I highly recommend owners get one of these. My biggest torque wrench goes to 350lbs, lower shock bolt is 406. I only had to input 135 ftlbs.

You are going to give @FordTechOne a heart attack. Lower shock bolt needs to be torqued fully loaded, on the ground. Best to tighten on the alignment rack.

 

[Old-Raptor-guy]

More to come soon........

 

[smurfslayer]

Yup. In to learn things.

 

[Old-Raptor-guy]

You are going to give @FordTechOne a heart attack. Lower shock bolt needs to be torqued fully loaded, on the ground. Best to tighten on the alignment rack.

That would be true with the OEM shock with a rubber bushing, the race series are heim (can be seen in the 1st picture of post #5 or background of post #8) joint at both ends so it will rotate. The factory bushing is bonded to the inner and outer sleeves ( same with oem upper control arm) if you torque it like I did the race series and then put weight on it the rubber will be stressed and tear/crack much sooner.

That was one nice thing with the upper arms I could torque those before putting the shock/spring back in and putting weight on it. those are a pain to torque on the alignment rack.

 

[Nex]

That would be true with the OEM shock with a rubber bushing, the race series are heim joint at both ends so it will rotate. The factory bushing is bonded to the inner and outer sleeves ( same with oem upper control arm) if you torque it like I did the race series and then put weight on it the rubber will be stresses and tear/crack much sooner.

That was one nice thing with the upper arms I could torque those before putting the sock/spring back in and putting weight on it. those are a pain to torque on the alignment rack.

Nice. As Smurf said, in for the learning.

 

[Reaper308]

Great post @O-R-G! Can’t wait to see how this all turns out! It’s going to be great. Ok you have to admit though as tiring as it can be, it’s nice to be in the shop alone working on your own stuff. Almost therapeutic. Huh?