no locked diff or 4wd

[smurfslayer]

Because it the”grumpy car stereo guy”, I hope we don’t find out it’s a low battery voltage due to driving twin 36 inch subs without engaging his atomic power generator to run the amps.

While showing off at the local starbucks.

 

[FordTechOne]

yes. i just replaced the boots on the axles and i specifically made sure the axles were locked in completely on both ends.

where should i start looking at the rear diff? mechanical meaning something in the pumpkin?

Like some of the others said, I’d start with the least intrusive. Even though the front axles were locked to the hubs when you checked, are you sure they’re re-engaging when the system is put in 4WD?

Do a visual on the rear axle for anything obvious. As I mentioned earlier, electrical related failures typically set DTCs, although high resistance in a circuit may not be picked up by the module.

Before you even get your hands dirty, you can use ForScan to check DTCs, monitor the T-case motor position while switching between modes, and monitor the IWE solenoid PIDs.

 

[MurderedOutSVT]

Maybe the weld you put on the spider gears failed?

 

[smurfslayer]

monitor the T-case motor position while switching between modes, and monitor the IWE solenoid PIDs.

I did not know you could do this with FORSCAN... very cool.

 

[Jakenbake]

Maybe the weld you put on the spider gears failed?

Lincoln Locker?

 

[MurderedOutSVT]

Lincoln Locker?

Dirtneck Detroit Locker

 

[MasterWaterSkier]

I think I just had this same situation and I believe I fixed it....

About 2 weeks ago got about 18" of snow.. lost power and needed to go to town.. .drove out of my driveway and got stuck in the middle of the complete flat cul de sac.. wet packing 18" of snow... both rear wheels turning, no front wheels turning.. kind of embarrassing. Went and got my bronco and pulled the raptor back into my plowed driveway. drove back toward my garage and my rear wheels were spinning as I tried to drive over the hump to get into the garage.

No codes, no errors, no indication inside my truck that anything was wrong. My only diagnosis was no front drive.. and was wondering how expensive this was going to be.

I have a Gen 1... 2013 with ~80k miles

looked through this thread and bunches of others and found people pointing to the Vacuum system and possibly the solenoid.. that is less than $20 from Amazon, worth a shot.

I replaced this part - 4x4 Vacuum Solenoid Purge Valve 4WD Locking Hub Vacuum Solenoid 7L1Z-9H465-B​

The part came in ~ 3days, took ~5 mins to swap out... I think its fixed....

Pre swap of the solenoid
Drove into my cul de sac where there was a pile of snow.... backed one rear wheel into it until I was stuck and rear wheel was spinning... front on dry pavement... shifted into 4wd.. nothing changed.. rear spinning, couldn't back up.. front not doing anything..

swapped out solenoid...

same deal.. backed in, rear spinning... shifted into 4wd... was able to back deep into the pile and certainly seemed like the front was pushing.

so... two questions...
1 - was that a fair test
2 - did I likely fix my problem, or is there something else I should worry about or test?

FYI - snow pile is finally gone, so can't test that anymore.

Any comments, concerns, questions, would be greatly appreciated... hopefully this is helpful?

 

[ugliestdrivingraptor]

easiest way to tell if its working is for someone else to look at your front cv axles when in motion. They should be spinning in 4wd, and should be not spinning in 2wd

 

[rschap1]

Transfer case shift motor?
Ever get it figured out?